No power windows, mirrors, radio - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019 Thread Starter
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No power windows, mirrors, radio

So I know that the center of the issue has something to do with the SJB. I replaced it with another one. Matching part numbers and everything. And it fixed a variety of other issues but not the ones I wanted lol. i.e. my horn and reverse lights work again.(so thatís good) Problem is that my windows have been down forever.

So I checked the fuses no blown fuses and thereís no power to about half the box? Iím at my wits end here. I think itís a connector issue but Iím not sure. Would supplying power to those wires after the box fix it?

Ideally I donít want to have to splice anything but it is what it is.

If anyone has info or experience with this help would be much appreciated.


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019
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Since most power windows/mirrors/radios don't work until the key is on or in accessory, I'd look into the ignition switch. One part of your fuse block is powered hot all the time while part of it is powered by the switch. Get a wiring diagram to see which wire/wires power the fuse block from the switch. You could power those systems after the block but you'd have to splice in a fuse holder to protect your circuitry.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019
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Check The following fuses F6 sjb. hot with ignition switch. Fuse F44 10 amp and f5 30amp bussed electrical center under the hood. These should be hot at all time. Did you see any greenish tint on the connectors plugs or the sjb sockets? If you did that is the tell all sign corrosion has set in. Could be the replacement box suffered some damage. You might pull the box and examine the connectors and spray some wd40 on the connectors let is soak in, and spray again then blow the connectors out with compressed air
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Travis98146 View Post
Since most power windows/mirrors/radios don't work until the key is on or in accessory, I'd look into the ignition switch. One part of your fuse block is powered hot all the time while part of it is powered by the switch. Get a wiring diagram to see which wire/wires power the fuse block from the switch. You could power those systems after the block but you'd have to splice in a fuse holder to protect your circuitry.


Thatís not a bad idea. I did just give in though. Iíve got an appointment scheduled with Ford on Wednesday for a diagnosis


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019 Thread Starter
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Check The following fuses F6 sjb. hot with ignition switch. Fuse F44 10 amp and f5 30amp bussed electrical center under the hood. These should be hot at all time. Did you see any greenish tint on the connectors plugs or the sjb sockets? If you did that is the tell all sign corrosion has set in. Could be the replacement box suffered some damage. You might pull the box and examine the connectors and spray some wd40 on the connectors let is soak in, and spray again then blow the connectors out with compressed air


I did check all of those and replaced them for good measure. None of the fuses were corroded or blown. Just simply not hot. Anyway took OG box and there was corrosion on some of the pins. New box is in ďused conditionĒ but no corrosion and better working condition than OG. Exact same fuses werenít hot at ignition in the ďonĒ position which is what has led me to believe the connector may have failed. I gave a good spray with CRC electrical connector cleaner and let it air out, *fingers crossed* with no luck. Iím gonna have Ford look at it on Wednesday because Iím over it already. Thanks for the insight anyway!


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019 Thread Starter
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Iíll be posting what Ford says so that if someone else has this issue they might be able to fix it without the Stealership. Guess we all have to bite a bullet sometime or later


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019
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My guess it is the terminals in the connector that had the corrosion. These terminals can't hold up
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019 Thread Starter
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My guess it is the terminals in the connector that had the corrosion. These terminals can't hold up


Youíre spot on. It was my guess too. I was just over troubleshooting. Ford told me there was corrosion in the female part of the connector. Took them all of a week to diagnose what I had told them was my suspicion from the start. So I basically coughed up 200 for them to stick sandpaper in the connector, but I am happy to have a fully functioning SJB again. Thanks for the input everyone.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019
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Glad it worked out for you.

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