2007 V6 Battery Drain Testing (& Actuator Replacement) - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2012 Thread Starter
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2007 V6 Battery Drain Testing (& Actuator Replacement)

Hey guys,

So I've had battery problems with my 2007 V6 Mustang for a long time now. For as long as I can remember now, I've been disconnecting the battery whenever I am planning on letting the car sit for more than a day. I've gone through at least 3 batteries now, and nothing is really changing.

So I finally got around to getting a multimeter to try to see if I could identify a battery drain myself. Here's how I set it up on the battery, just to make sure I'm doing the testing in an appropriate manner:
Connected black cable to multimeter COM port, red cable to 10A port.
Set multimeter to 10A setting (highest amp reading setting)
Disconnected negative battery cable from post
Complete battery circuit by connecting red cable to battery cable and black cable to battery post
(I'm pretty new to this, so just lemme know if I should be doing it in another way)

So I let the car sit for a while and checked the multi meter reading. After everything went to sleep, it settled just around 0.15A, so just around 150mA going through the battery. Pretty sure that is too high to be normal drain on the battery.

What I did was just check the fuse box and started yanking away until I could see a measurable drop. I removed each fuse/relay individually, but none seemed to drop the drain at all, except for one - fuse #68. If I'm correct, that's the fuse for the ignition, right? Removing that one gave me a stable drain of 20ish mA. None of the other connectors would give me any measurable drop at all.

Where would you suggest I go from here? How do you all suggest trying to figure out what's going on? What exactly does this ignition fuse entail? Because the problem definitely wasn't related to the start or alternator fuse.

Here's a pic of my fuse box: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7374295/2012...-52-55_889.jpg

Second Question:
My mustang has also had a pretty loud clicking noise coming out from under the dashboard. It was definitely related to the fan system as it would either go away or change depending on the how the A/C switch was positioned.
I did a lot of research on that and saw that the problem could be in the actuators (Blend Door, Driver Floor Panel, Defrost, and Air Inlet). I checked them on my car and did some testing. I found out the clicking disappeared after I disconnected both the Driver Floor Panel and the Defrost Actuators. I could definitely order replacement actuators to install, the only thing is that the things are so hard to reach. Any recommendations on how to get easier access to either of the two actuators?

Thanks! Any help would would be appreciated!

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012 Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

So I went about changing my mustang's ignition switch today, figuring that the problem was something there not shutting the car off correctly. Got a replacement ignition switch at autozone and put it in pretty easily and it worked fine. Car started normally and what not.

Measuring the battery draw, however, I saw that there wasn't much of a change. I was still getting a consistent battery draw of 250mA which drops to 150mA after a while when the car goes to sleep. Still goes away when I pull fuse 68 for the ignition. So... ignition switch was not the problem.

Now what I did was disconnect the switch altogether, so all there is now is a hanging 6-wire red/black connector that is supposed to connect to the ignition switch. Even with it disconnected like this, I'm still getting the same consistent drain.

So now I'm stumped. I know there is a draw coming from fuse 68. Fuse 68 connects to the ignition switch (6 cables). Even when these cables are not connected to anything (the switch), there is a constant draw of 150+mA on the battery. What could this possibly mean? Where could the draw be coming from if nothing is connected to the ignition switch? What are my real options at this point? :?:

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012
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Not sure if this will be of any help.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012
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do you have the Shaker 500? I had to pull mine out and replaced it with a DVD player. No more drain. The Shaker would come on by itself and try to eject or install CD's without any assistance. You turn it off, it comes on by itself. Since I changed it out, no more battery problems. That was the noise I was hearing from my dash also. Sounded like bumblebees flying around before I figured out the problem. Good luck.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012 Thread Starter
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@Dark Age 53
Thanks! I was actually looking at that diagram earlier to see what each cable going into the ignition switch did. Problem is, right now none of those wires are connected to the switch at all, and there still seems to be a drain coming from the ignition fuse. :/

@akdoggie
I actually heard that the shaker 500s were causing battery drain. My V6 only has the regular radio system though, and cutting the fuse for that doesn't seem to do anything... Thanks though!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012
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Which fuse are you looking at? I pulled this from the owners manual -

The fuses are coded as follows:
Location AMPS Description
1 Mini relay Accessory delay #1
2 — Not used
3 10A Wiper power/Blower motor relay
4 5A Power mirrors
5 — Not used
6 5A Accessory delay feeds
7 10A Electrochromic mirror/ Ambientlighting
8 10A Cluster, Data Link Connector (DLC)
9 — Not used
10 5A Intrusion Sensing Module (ISM), Climate control
11 — Not used
12 5A Climate control, Ignition
13 — Not used
14 5A A/C cycle switch
15 10A Brake On/Off (BOO) power
16 5A Cluster
17 10A Restraint Control Module (RCM),Passenger Occupant Detection System (PODS), Passenger Air bag Deactivation Indicator (PADI)
18 10A Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
19 5A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relay, Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS), Instrument cluster airbag warning lamp
20 10A Radio (Start)
21 10A Starter relay

The only one I see for ignition is number 12, and it's only 5A.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az.dsrt View Post
Which fuse are you looking at? I pulled this from the owners manual -

The fuses are coded as follows:
Location AMPS Description
1 Mini relay Accessory delay #1
2 — Not used
3 10A Wiper power/Blower motor relay
4 5A Power mirrors
5 — Not used
6 5A Accessory delay feeds
7 10A Electrochromic mirror/ Ambientlighting
8 10A Cluster, Data Link Connector (DLC)
9 — Not used
10 5A Intrusion Sensing Module (ISM), Climate control
11 — Not used
12 5A Climate control, Ignition
13 — Not used
14 5A A/C cycle switch
15 10A Brake On/Off (BOO) power
16 5A Cluster
17 10A Restraint Control Module (RCM),Passenger Occupant Detection System (PODS), Passenger Air bag Deactivation Indicator (PADI)
18 10A Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
19 5A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relay, Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS), Instrument cluster airbag warning lamp
20 10A Radio (Start)
21 10A Starter relay

The only one I see for ignition is number 12, and it's only 5A.
Those are the fuses from the smart junction box inside the car. None of those contributed to the battery drain. My drain is coming from fuse 68 from the BEC fuse box under the hood. Thanks though!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012
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Aw jeez, my bad. I had no idea there are more fuses under the hood.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012 Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
So I replaced the alternator thinking that may be the problem, but I'm still getting a consistent 150mA drain :/

Here's where I am now though. I know the drain is coming from fuse 68 which controls the ignition switch via wire 1050 which then feeds 5 other wires once it reaches the ignition switch. Unplugging the ignition switch and letting 6 wires (wire 1050 and the 5 it feeds) hang unconnected, not powering anything, still leaves me with the battery drain.

So there must be a something happening with wire 1050 before it gets to the connector (connector C250 for the ignition switch). This wire 1050 goes from the BEC under the hood then into an inline connector C210 before going to the ignition switch connector. What I'm planning on doing now is finding this connector C210 and disconnecting wire 1050 before it goes into the in line connector. Hopefully this can tell me if there is something going on with the wire causing a drain before it reaches the ignition switch, right?

My main problem is that I do not know where inline connector C210 is located. I heard before it was in the right kick panel, so somewhere near the SJB? Anyone happen to know exactly how to reach this connector? Or how to safely/properly remove a single wire from it?

Here's a fuse diagram to visualize:


If you have any tips or suggestions, please let me know!
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so, did you find the problem? my car is doing the same thing...draining overnight. I've check the firewall for leaks, found nothing (not clogged and no water puddles), no sign of water damage inside the car, yet I found corrosion on my SJB terminals. SJB has been replaced, problem still present. I'm curious to know if/how you fixed yours.
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Question

I am following your line of troubleshooting as I having the exact same issue with my 2007 mustang with installed Shaker 500 sound system which has stopped working. I am now replacing cowl grommets due to leakage during heavy FL rains which I thinking was the cause of my over night battery draining.
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It was the amps from the shakers that were causing tons of battery drain issues. I put a shaker 1000 radio in mine, but I dont have the amps or the sub, but still these cars tend to draw a battery down just sitting. If the battery gets low, the disk changer will start cycling and act crazy. Other than the computer working on saving settings, and the anti theft feature, dont have any other ideas. One thing though, I put a new interstate battery (top of the price chain) in mine just before last winter, every couple weeks I would try to start it and it would be dead.

Years ago I put a over sized die hard in it ( the battery listed for the gt was bigger) and never had any problems. This new interstate was alot smaller battery, I wasnt happy about that but they claimed it called for the same size for the v6 or gt. I happened to be taking it back and the interstate rep was there. He exchanged it for a larger battery (the size of the battery box), same cranking amps but it has a longer power reserve. I have not had any issues after that.

05 V6 auto,
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