So I've had battery problems with my 2007 V6 Mustang for a long time now. For as long as I can remember now, I've been disconnecting the battery whenever I am planning on letting the car sit for more than a day. I've gone through at least 3 batteries now, and nothing is really changing.
So I finally got around to getting a multimeter to try to see if I could identify a battery drain myself. Here's how I set it up on the battery, just to make sure I'm doing the testing in an appropriate manner:
Connected black cable to multimeter COM port, red cable to 10A port.
Set multimeter to 10A setting (highest amp reading setting)
Disconnected negative battery cable from post
Complete battery circuit by connecting red cable to battery cable and black cable to battery post
(I'm pretty new to this, so just lemme know if I should be doing it in another way)
So I let the car sit for a while and checked the multi meter reading. After everything went to sleep, it settled just around 0.15A, so just around 150mA going through the battery. Pretty sure that is too high to be normal drain on the battery.
What I did was just check the fuse box and started yanking away until I could see a measurable drop. I removed each fuse/relay individually, but none seemed to drop the drain at all, except for one - fuse #68. If I'm correct, that's the fuse for the ignition, right? Removing that one gave me a stable drain of 20ish mA. None of the other connectors would give me any measurable drop at all.
Where would you suggest I go from here? How do you all suggest trying to figure out what's going on? What exactly does this ignition fuse entail? Because the problem definitely wasn't related to the start or alternator fuse.
Here's a pic of my fuse box: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7374295/2012...-52-55_889.jpg
My mustang has also had a pretty loud clicking noise coming out from under the dashboard. It was definitely related to the fan system as it would either go away or change depending on the how the A/C switch was positioned.
I did a lot of research on that and saw that the problem could be in the actuators (Blend Door, Driver Floor Panel, Defrost, and Air Inlet). I checked them on my car and did some testing. I found out the clicking disappeared after I disconnected both the Driver Floor Panel and the Defrost Actuators. I could definitely order replacement actuators to install, the only thing is that the things are so hard to reach. Any recommendations on how to get easier access to either of the two actuators?
Thanks! Any help would would be appreciated!