2006 Mustang V6 Front End Clunk - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Well, After getting tired of messing with my end links, Due to the Clunk noise, I tightened the bolt down as tight as I could get it. Torqued @ 150-180lbs. onto some red loctite, then I put another bolt behind it and torqued it so tight, it broke the socket.....this bolt was also onto some red loctite. I thought to myself "I feel sorry for the person who has to remove all this"..... it even squashed the lock washer I put inbetween the two bolts. well, good thing it all came loose on it's own. The only thing I can think od is the bolt and nut each have their own position. It's not just a matter of tightening the crap out of it. The weird part is that it mostly makes the noise between 5-20 M.P.H.

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Also, All 4 of my tires are cracked and need replacing about a month ago. even though they are 65 years old, they only have 30,000 miles on them. Is this the price a person pays to stick to the road? A.K.A. soft rubber?

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Also, All 4 of my tires are cracked and need replacing about a month ago. even though they are 65 years old, they only have 30,000 miles on them. Is this the price a person pays to stick to the road? A.K.A. soft rubber?
wow, old post. i had posted the last time about replacing the strut bearings going bad on my car, and i just replaced them for the 2nd time last week, only this time with the frpp gt500 mounts/bearings. ive never had a issue with the sway bar end links, and i just replaced those along with the struts and mounts last week. if you have a rattle, i would suspect the mounts, not the struts or the sway links. thats been my experience with this car. the mounts are the weak link in the frt suspension

when i first got my car, it had old tires on it that looked like new. they had cracks in between the treads so i replaced them pretty fast. i dont like taking chances with old tires.

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I just replaced my struts with new "take offs" from a GT. I'm getting the clunking noise when I'm in my driveway and roll onto a lower section which is about a 1" drop.

Aren't the strut upper bearings part of the strut assembly? If so they should be brand new.

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I just replaced the control arms. The ball joints were worn and the large rear bushings were beginning to crack. It didn't solve my noise problem though. Aside from the sway bar links, which don't appear to be loose or worn, I don't know what else to do. :?:

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I just replaced my struts with new "take offs" from a GT. I'm getting the clunking noise when I'm in my driveway and roll onto a lower section which is about a 1" drop.

Aren't the strut upper bearings part of the strut assembly? If so they should be brand new.
the strut bearings need to be replaced with the struts. they are a separate part, and they dont hold up as long as the struts. i just put my 2nd set of gt struts on, and this time instead of the oem mounts i used the gt500 mounts. my original strut mounts were junk at 50k, the second set of oem mounts were junk at 35k, so i`ll see how these do this time around.

i took my last set apart to check them out. heres whats inside. the ball bearing are really tiny, and the bearing just fell apart when i opened it up. next time i replace the gt500`s, i`ll open them up and see if they are indeed any better.

if you didnt do it, i would say replace your strut mounts/bearings. the way the struts are set up, its hard to get the large top nut tight too. double check that too.
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i also replaced my sway bar end links this time around with the struts. the replacements i got from cjpony seemed a bit smaller in diameter but one improvement is they put a nut/stud on the link so you can use a wrenche to get them tight where as the oems are just like a tie rod end that will just spin when you tighten the nuts on. if you decide to replace these, be sure and get the new set of nuts for them which are sold separate.
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I forgot that I re-used the top mounts when I replaced the struts. In fact one of them came apart when I removed them last time, so I inspected the balls and the race, cleaned and lubed with light grease and they seemed fine.

I just ordered OEMs for $92 including shipping. Ford 8r3z-18183-b which is supposedly an improvement over the '05 original due to a TSB.

With regards to the sway bar links, I re-used the originals. On the top they have an 8mm hex that you hold while tightening the larger nut (or vice-versa). They are tight and move smoothly, like a new part.

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I forgot that I re-used the top mounts when I replaced the struts. In fact one of them came apart when I removed them last time, so I inspected the balls and the race, cleaned and lubed with light grease and they seemed fine.

I just ordered OEMs for $92 including shipping. Ford 8r3z-18183-b which is supposedly an improvement over the '05 original due to a TSB.

With regards to the sway bar links, I re-used the originals. On the top they have an 8mm hex that you hold while tightening the larger nut (or vice-versa). They are tight and move smoothly, like a new part.
i guess what i was getting at is you cant hold that 8mm end on the bolt and use a socket on a torque wrench at the same time. same dumb idea on the top strut nuts. that hex top will not work with a torque wrench and socket, so why even have a torque spec. i used the same links when i replaced my sway bar 3 years ago, and just used my impact gun. but i`m getting closer to 100k so its about time for me to start replacing things

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i guess what i was getting at is you cant hold that 8mm end on the bolt and use a socket on a torque wrench at the same time. same dumb idea on the top strut nuts. that hex top will not work with a torque wrench and socket, so why even have a torque spec. i used the same links when i replaced my sway bar 3 years ago, and just used my impact gun. but i`m getting closer to 100k so its about time for me to start replacing things
I've been wrenching on cars long enough that I typically don't measure torque unless I'm working on something that's compressing a critical gasket, like heads or an intake manifold. If you want to use a torque wrench on the link, use an 8mm socket and the appropriate drive adapters, and a box wrench to hold the outer nut.

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I just replaced the strut bearings. Zero improvement with the noise.

The car handles like a new GT, because the suspension is from a new GT. New control arm with bushings and ball joints. New tie rod ends. New sway bar and rubber mounts. The only thing re-used are the sway bar links an those are tight. New plastic fasteners for the inner wheel fenders. I've checked the torque on the K member mounting. I've had the car on jack stands with the wheels on and pounded all around with a rubber hammer and can't find anything loose.

Its a metal-metal solid clunking sound. :?:

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Somebody give me the dummy of the year award. :hihi:

I just found that the sway bar link on the driver's side wasn't torqued down on the bar (lower) end. The noise sounded like it was on the passenger side so that's what I was focused on. And, when I tested the link on the driver's side by twisting it it felt solid. But the nut was just loose enough to slide about 1/2 mm and rattle over low speed bumps.

Oh well, I have a completely new front end and the car handles like it's brand new.

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