06 stang Blower won't run - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015 Thread Starter
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06 stang Blower won't run

Hello,

My daughter has an 06 stang, and her blower motor will not turn on. I'm getting 12 volts at the plug that connects to the blower, which made me think the blower was bad. I pulled it from the car, and connected it straight to the battery, and the blower runs fine. So, the blower works but wont' kick on even though I measure 12 volts at the blower plug. Your thoughts?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015
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??????????????

What kind of Blower are you running?

T Wayne

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015
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You are talking about the AC/Heater blower motor right? If so, then check the Blower Motor Resistor. If it's fried you won't get power to the motor. You might also check to make sure the circuit is grounded properly. Check the motor connections again carefully, making sure both sides are making proper connection.

Good luck.


2005 V6 Convertible
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015 Thread Starter
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*L* Guess I should have been a bit more descriptive when I said blower. Yes, I'm referring to just the AC/Heat blower.

I do get power at the plug that connects to the blower. I also did a quick check on each side of that plug...connected volt meter to 12 volt source in cig lighter, and grounded to plug, and then check with volt meter on positive side of plug and other meter lead grounded to car. Either of those 2 ways, or by just reading the terminals on the plug itself, I get 12 volts, but it won't make the blower run. I was thinking that somewhere along the electrical path there's a weak point. It's showing 12 volts, but when the motor tries to run and actually put a load on the wire path, it can not supply the current. I had already tried a new blower resistor. Maybe the dash switch is failing?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015
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Guessing here...just guessing.

Check the connector which is beneath the plastic heater housing recirc/fresh door. It's a 12 pin connector. Make sure there's no corrosion within itself...specifically pink wire with white tracer.

Check the connector behind right hand kick panel...(you must remove rh kick panel)...slightly towards the rear of the car from the smart junction box...mounted on metal...a 40 pin connector...very light grey plastic...with white plastic clip handle. Pull it apart and check for corrosion...especially the pink wire with white tracer...also black wire with light green tracer. Others have reported corrosion within this connector...due to water leaks.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-03-2015 Thread Starter
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I did pull the right hand kick panel last weekend, but all I checked was to see if that connector in there was tight. I'll give it another try this coming weekend, and look closer at the wires themselves. I'll also check that connector under the heater housing. Thanks for the tip. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-03-2015 Thread Starter
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If I don't see anything with those connectors, I think I'll try removing the dash switch and putting a jumper across those wires, see if that makes any difference.
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