MT82 shifting problems - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016 Thread Starter
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MT82 shifting problems

Hello I have a 2014 Mustang Warrior and Iím having transmission issues when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd. 2nd gear is hard to get into gear. If im driving and I slow down to take a turn I want to put into 2nd gear but it wont go into gear so I have to put it into 3rd gear instead. Also if Iím slowing down at a red light or stop sign and I want to down shift it to 1st gear itís the same problem.

My plan is to buy a Barton 2 post shifter bracket, a Whiteline transmission mount insert, a braided steel clutch line (but which one?), and change the trans fluid to either Royal Purple or Amsoil. have you tried anything like this? Does this sound like a good plan? If this doesnít work Iím going to get a MGW race spec shifter.

I would buy a shifter first but this car already came with a ford racing short throw shifter stock because itís a ďwarriorĒ and I really like the feel of the shifter it has now. It clicks into gear very nicely when it does work. I donít want to replace it unless I have to.


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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016
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Are you rev matching when you downshift?
How slow of a turn are you taking when you are trying to downshift from 3rd to 2nd? Most of the time the car can be slowed quite a bit before dropping into 2nd, especially with 3.73 gears.
Don't bother trying to downshift into 1st unless you've come to a complete stop. The car is geared low enough and the engine has enough power that there's no reason to do it.
Nothing wrong with draining the oil but I didn't have any problems with my factory oil for over 85,000 miles. If you do, try sticking with a 90 weight oil.
Ford Racing shifter is just a rebranded Barton shifter and should already include the 2 post bracket.

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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016 Thread Starter
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Are you rev matching when you downshift?
How slow of a turn are you taking when you are trying to downshift from 3rd to 2nd? Most of the time the car can be slowed quite a bit before dropping into 2nd, especially with 3.73 gears.
Don't bother trying to downshift into 1st unless you've come to a complete stop. The car is geared low enough and the engine has enough power that there's no reason to do it.
Nothing wrong with draining the oil but I didn't have any problems with my factory oil for over 85,000 miles. If you do, try sticking with a 90 weight oil.
Ford Racing shifter is just a rebranded Barton shifter and should already include the 2 post bracket.

No I haven't been rev matching when I downshift I will try that. I have owned 5 cars that had a manual transmission and I have never encountered this problem where its hard to put into gear. Well on my 2001 Cobra I had that problem when it needed a new clutch but this 2014 warrior only has 4,000 miles I don't think it needs a new clutch already.

I don't know the speed I'm going when I take a turn. On other cars I have always downshifted to 2nd gear when I am driving down the street and take a left turn or right turn. I have never had a problem until now.

I didn't realize the car might already have the bracket I haven't lifted the car up yet to look under it. I will check it out before I order anything. Thank you for letting me know about this I didn't know.

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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014 Warrior View Post
Hello I have a 2014 Mustang Warrior and I’m having transmission issues when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd. 2nd gear is hard to get into gear. If im driving and I slow down to take a turn I want to put into 2nd gear but it wont go into gear so I have to put it into 3rd gear instead. Also if I’m slowing down at a red light or stop sign and I want to down shift it to 1st gear it’s the same problem.

My plan is to buy a Barton 2 post shifter bracket, a Whiteline transmission mount insert, a braided steel clutch line (but which one?), and change the trans fluid to either Royal Purple or Amsoil. have you tried anything like this? Does this sound like a good plan? If this doesn’t work I’m going to get a MGW race spec shifter.

I would buy a shifter first but this car already came with a ford racing short throw shifter stock because it’s a “warrior” and I really like the feel of the shifter it has now. It clicks into gear very nicely when it does work. I don’t want to replace it unless I have to.
Am I correct to assume you are the first time owner? Have you installed any modifications since delivery? You should have power train warranty 60 month 60000 miles. Before you do anything you really should take it to a dealer. Ride with the technician. Get the issue documented. You don't need to be putting aftermarket parts on that they may use against you at this point.

You should not need to change your tranny or rear end fluids yet unless you have possibly tracked the car. I would stick with Ford Fluids and Ford additives until warranty is over. I almost went with Royal purple fluids in either the tranny or the rear end. Can't remember right now. I use Amsoil for the Oil though. It meets or exceeds Fords Specs.

Did you by chance miss any shifts while having fun with your car?

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014 Warrior View Post
Hello I have a 2014 Mustang Warrior and Iím having transmission issues when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd. 2nd gear is hard to get into gear. If im driving and I slow down to take a turn I want to put into 2nd gear but it wont go into gear so I have to put it into 3rd gear instead. Also if Iím slowing down at a red light or stop sign and I want to down shift it to 1st gear itís the same problem.

My plan is to buy a Barton 2 post shifter bracket, a Whiteline transmission mount insert, a braided steel clutch line (but which one?), and change the trans fluid to either Royal Purple or Amsoil. have you tried anything like this? Does this sound like a good plan? If this doesnít work Iím going to get a MGW race spec shifter.

I would buy a shifter first but this car already came with a ford racing short throw shifter stock because itís a ďwarriorĒ and I really like the feel of the shifter it has now. It clicks into gear very nicely when it does work. I donít want to replace it unless I have to.
When I had my 2012 GT, changing the shifter bushing to a firmer one helped. I used the Steeda bushing but I'm sure any aftermarket one would be an improvement. I also used the TriAx shifter, installing it about six months after the bushing. The issue usually is the torque created by the engine at acceleration. The externally mounted shifter is twisted out of alignment and it is difficult to get it into second gear especially. Some guys have used stiffer motor mounts that have just about eliminated the problem.

The other thing is that I never downshift into first. There is no reason to do that. Push the clutch in and use the brakes. Driving on the street does not require downshifting into every lower gear before you stop. It saves the clutch, makes shifting easier and using the brakes when coming to a stop is not a bad thing. Compression braking is good when you are moving and want to downshift to slow down but first gear on every Mustang that I have owned has been off limits when coming to a stop. On my 2003 GT, I traded it in with 63,000 miles on it and had never had a brake job and never shifted into first when stopping.

I hope this helps!

Pete

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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017
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Blowfish Racing Shifter Bracket and you're done - all the stiffer bushings do is treat the symptoms a stiffer bushing will help but a proper bracket will fix it permanently, use the blowfish or MGW brackets and the shifter is no longer attached to the body i.e. No more shift issues.....

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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017
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I have the Ford Racing / Barton Shifter and Blowfish Racing bracket on my car. Did the FR shifter first, then added the BF bracket. The combination helped accuracy of shifts 95% of the time during hard acceleration. Still get a lock out sometimes between 4th to 5th under those conditions. I down shift all the time without problems, but rarely if ever do a 2nd to 1st. All that being said, I do have some after-market clutch issues I am dealing with. Hasn't been 'right' since the install.
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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017
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Everyone is probably tired of hearing this, but MGW and done.


I was in your shoes; getting 2nd lockout no matter what RPM I was in. I had read hundreds of posts on forums and Facebook saying the MGW stuff was the way to go. I am fortunate enough that I live about 3 hours from MGW, so I took a day off of work and drove down there early one morning and the owner of MGW installed the Race Spec on my 2014 GT.


I have to say it's an amazing difference from what I was dealing with before. My car is an absolute joy to drive now!


My old setup with an SR Performance shifter installed on the stock Ford stuff:





Here is my Race Spec prepped for install:



All installed:



A weighted shift knob makes a huge difference once your shifter is sorted out! This is a weighted "gripper" knob made my MGW. You can customize them with different stems and topper caps.


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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017
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I am saying this with all due respect & sincerity.......you need to find an ol timer (male or female) who knows how to drive a stick and show you the proper techniques.....there are quite a few and you will find the vehicle much more pleasurable to drive and will also resolve all of the issues you speak of.....changing parts is not going to take the place of improper techniques.....it may help to hide them, but it will not make the issues go away and you will discover mechanical maintenance issues as a result of not learning and using these.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
I am saying this with all due respect & sincerity.......you need to find an ol timer (male or female) who knows how to drive a stick and show you the proper techniques.....there are quite a few and you will find the vehicle much more pleasurable to drive and will also resolve all of the issues you speak of.....changing parts is not going to take the place of improper techniques.....it may help to hide them, but it will not make the issues go away and you will discover mechanical maintenance issues as a result of not learning and using these.
Technique will go a long way to making a car shift and drive correctly, but the MT82 shifter mounting is just a horrible design and contributes to a lot of locked out shifts. Mine would have 2nd gear lock-out just sitting still with the clutch depressed while running through the gears.
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some disagreement on the old timer bit. With synchros you shouldn't have grinding. Their job is to do the rev-matching for you.

note that one of my biggest improvements with mine was learning the tight gates and how this MT-82 does not like to be shifted w/o thought. You need to do it properly each time.

the other biggie was motor mounts...your results may vary.

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Quote:
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some disagreement on the old timer bit. With synchros you shouldn't have grinding. Their job is to do the rev-matching for you..
It's a very much spoken mis-understanding of the purpose of syncro's.......they are now there to rev-match but to "assist" in lining up the gear selector transfer to eliminate "double clutching"....you still need to get the RPM's within 500 or so for correct engagement.....unless you have electronic gear matching of course.


With regards to the MT shifter...I'll agree with the previous poster that it could be a little tighter in design but, they are miles ahead of the 1960's 4 speed shifters that while many stated the same complaints at the time and spent a crapload of $ for the "Hurst Shifters", unless you were pro-racing, I never had an issue grabbing a gear and these same shifters were used in the cobra's and if they were really that bad of a design that couldn't be addressed with technique, Mark Donahue would have made them pull that thing out and replace it with a piece of steel pipe if that worked better!

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maybe rev match was not not the right word...but transmission gear speed match sounds clunky (intended).

back to OP's first post.

in order of what my ideas are:

learn the tight gates....use and counter center spring. to get into 3/4 the spring will guide the shifter into the correct plain. You need to counter spring tension when trying for any other gear.

An upgraded shifter (MGW!!!!) is a nice improvement.

Motor mounts will help when driving hard but they add a good bit of NVH.

I find mine needs you to pay attention when shifting. It likes it done correctly and will not really compensate for sloppy/lazy shifts.



side note. I see mine waking up after it's winter hibernation this week!!!
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Beechkid:

With all due respect, your "proper technique" shows your lack of understanding concerning the M82 shifter. The "Chinese" shifter that the 2011-2014 Mustang utilizes is a remote linked shifter that creates severe shifter gate misalignment during high rpm acceleration. Additionally, the M82 shifter bushing utilizes an actual plastic zip tie....complete garbage. The MGW shifter is tied to the transmission and simulates a top loader, thus eliminating shifter gate misalignment.

Since installing my MGW shifter, I can now shift at any rpm level and not worry about missing the 2nd to 3rd shift. In fact, this MGW shifter has enabled me to fully enjoy driving my Mustang. I'm 55 years old and on my 15th Mustang, many of which have been manuals. The manual shifter or the M82 is pure junk, and advising the poster that his shifting issues are due to a lack of skill is irresponsible on your part. I still know guys my age that hold on to their belief that a Boss 429 will out run my 14 GT/CS....the good old days are still some old timers reality!

The MGW shifter upgrade is one of the FIRST things on anyone's upgrade list.

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2014 Mustang GT Coupe Premium. Options include: California Special package, comfort package, navigation, glass roof, shaker pro system, 3.73 ratio limited slip axle, GT front grill/fogs, MGW race spec shifter, BBK X-Pipe, Corsa GT500 Quad Sport axle-back, Ford Racing ProCal tune. "If I wanted insane HP, I would have purchased a 2014 Shelby GT500!"
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Quote:
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Beechkid:

With all due respect, your "proper technique" shows your lack of understanding concerning the M82 shifter. The "Chinese" shifter that the 2011-2014 Mustang utilizes is a remote linked shifter that creates severe shifter gate misalignment during high rpm acceleration. Additionally, the M82 shifter bushing utilizes an actual plastic zip tie....complete garbage. The MGW shifter is tied to the transmission and simulates a top loader, thus eliminating shifter gate misalignment.

Since installing my MGW shifter, I can now shift at any rpm level and not worry about missing the 2nd to 3rd shift. In fact, this MGW shifter has enabled me to fully enjoy driving my Mustang. I'm 55 years old and on my 15th Mustang, many of which have been manuals. The manual shifter or the M82 is pure junk, and advising the poster that his shifting issues are due to a lack of skill is irresponsible on your part. I still know guys my age that hold on to their belief that a Boss 429 will out run my 14 GT/CS....the good old days are still some old timers reality!

The MGW shifter upgrade is one of the FIRST things on anyone's upgrade list.

JediDave
The "Force" is with MGW!


Yes I have driven them, and I doubt you remember what it took to shift a top-loader with worn out plastic bushings.......and this shifter has been around for a while.......


The comments posted by the OP, clearly shows they have not been taught the proper techniques ...and just thinking you can down-shift a trans into gear without stepping on the gas, well, they don't even recommend you do that with an auto...it's right in the owners manual! "Direct Quote"


Having been raised in the Los Angeles area and lived in the Mountains & deserts, and raced SCCA in the 70's with the pony cars (very successfully) and pit crewed for a TR8 (that became a TR7 with TR8 guts), there are real techniques such as when driving in heavy traffic, learning to "slip the trans into neutral as you come to a stop", not resting at a stop with clutch depressed (as this heats the TO bearing) and the proper way to up-shift for speed using the muroc technique (as you exit the gear/depressing the clutch in) will make the car literally jump 5 mph without using a drop of fuel to do it!


Yes, the shifter could use an enhancement but it is no different in feel or issues than any of the other oe mfg's have....you should hear the kids talk about the BMW with the same tranny......oh how they need to spend $ for a new shifter as well.......a OE M mechanic/engineer was there at this track day listening to all this.....he took the first gent out and let him show him the issues....then he got behind the wheel and showed him just how to adapt to it......he ended up taking 6+ people out in there cars showing them proper technique.......each was surpirised at how this could be true! of course a wekk later it was all back to the same rhetoric......
and that's ok.......besides, the fix as I have seen it is pretty easy...easily fabbed at any home garage in a few hours........of course spending $'s and paying someone else to install it is even easier!


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