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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017 Thread Starter
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Looking for help 1 by 1.

So my car has a litany of problems.

I don't know if I should make a thread for each issue but I'll start with the most pressing, and go from there. The car is a 2011 Mustang GT with an ON3 Performance Twin Turbo installed on it. Here are the complete list of modifications:

SR Performance V2 Coil Over Kit
BMR Front Lower Control A-Arms - Standard Ball Joint - Red
BMR Non-Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm - Poly Bushing - Red
Ford Performance Traction - LOK Limited Slip Differential w/ Carbon Discs
Injector Dynamics EV14 High Impedance ID1000 Injectors
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP) 40 Amp
On 3 Performance Twin Turbo Kit
On 3 Performance Billet Steel Oil Pump Gears

Does anyone know of any shop in the NYC area that is known for doing Fantastic work with Mustangs that are known for going above and beyond to make sure that every job is done right, and in a timely manner?

It feels like every shop I go to, they just... They're lacking in some department. They don't keep in touch and update me with the information on how the work is going, or what the roadmap is for the work to be completed. Or they just don't do the work properly and I'm left with residual issues, like when I got my MT-82 rebuilt by St. Ann's Auto Repair

I honestly just want these issues resolved. If anyone here has any thoughts on the car's issues, or any shops in the local area (Google Map Of My Local Area), please let me know. I'm at my wits end.



1/10/2017

1) After the installation of the kit, there's a rattling feeling I can feel in the steering wheel after the car's been running for a while. It's more prominent depending on the amount of rotation in the steering wheel. So for example, if the wheel is zeroed out and I turn it... Say 15% of the way to the right, I'll feel a vibration (at idle). I was told it was the Power Steering.

2) After the installation of the kit, the tuner that I was trying to use: API Performance said that no matter what he did, he couldn't lower the transient fuel. His words were: Tip In is rich, and it's constantly running rich and won't lower no matter what I did to the value.

3) After about 3 weeks of driving with a base tune, with the CEL coming on with codes saying (Bank1 Rich, Bank2 Rich), another flashing CEL came on. I checked again, and it said: (Cylinder 7 Misfire). I then Swapped coils from Cylinder 7 to Cylinder 8, and the CEL came back on saying Cylinder 7 Misfire, Cylinder 8 Misfire. So we did a compression test, and Cylinder 7 has no compression. We squirted some oil in it, and the compression didn't go up or change in the least, so the mechanic that did the work is telling me that he believes there's something wrong with the valves in Cylinder 7.

4) The Exhaust (leading to cats) with the On3 Kit warped within 2 weeks and now I have an exhaust leak, so I have to buy another gasket as a filler to plug the leak.


I made this post not to bash anyone. I just want advice. Knowledge. Thoughts on the issues, and a referral to a shop in the local area that you think is amazing at doing work on performance vehicles that I can bring my car to continually to achieve my dreams of making this a superb race / street car.

Thank you for reading. I apologize if I offended anyone, or... Did something wrong.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017
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I am sorry to hear you are having all the issues after modifications. I don't know anybody in NYC. I have some questions that your answers may help.

a) Am I correct you had no issues prior to having the modifications installed?

b) Did you have all the suspension mods done at the same time as the installation of the turbos?

3) When you took possession of the car after the installation of the turbos did the car feel like it was not running on all cylinders. If not when did you notice an issue?

4)What PSI are you running with the base tune?

5) How much fun and how many miles did you run it on the base tune?

6) Any other warning signs or running hot etc. while running the base tune?


2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
I am sorry to hear you are having all the issues after modifications. I don't know anybody in NYC. I have some questions that your answers may help.

a) Am I correct you had no issues prior to having the modifications installed?

b) Did you have all the suspension mods done at the same time as the installation of the turbos?
Yes, no prior issues.

Yes, it was all done in one shot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
3) When you took possession of the car after the installation of the turbos did the car feel like it was not running on all cylinders. If not when did you notice an issue?
It didn't feel like it wasn't running on all cylinders. I noticed it after the check engine light started coming on after the tuner put a base tune on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
4)What PSI are you running with the base tune?
5 PSI

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
5) How much fun and how many miles did you run it on the base tune?
For about.... 300 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
6) Any other warning signs or running hot etc. while running the base tune?
Before the CEL - Nothing.

After the CEL - Misfiring, and rough idling.

On 3 Performance Twin Turbo Kit
On 3 Performance Billet Steel Oil Pump Gears
SR Performance V2 Coil Over Kit
Injector Dynamics EV14 High Impedance ID1000 Injectors (Bought Via On 3 Performance)
BMR Front Lower Control A-Arms - Standard Ball Joint - Red
BMR Non-Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm - Poly Bushing - Red
Ford Performance Traction - LOK Limited Slip Differential w/ Carbon Discs
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP) 40 Amp
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017 Thread Starter
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By the way I brought it to Mustang Magic in Long Island, NY. They did some digging and found that the number 7 piston was cracked.

*ouch*

On 3 Performance Twin Turbo Kit
On 3 Performance Billet Steel Oil Pump Gears
SR Performance V2 Coil Over Kit
Injector Dynamics EV14 High Impedance ID1000 Injectors (Bought Via On 3 Performance)
BMR Front Lower Control A-Arms - Standard Ball Joint - Red
BMR Non-Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm - Poly Bushing - Red
Ford Performance Traction - LOK Limited Slip Differential w/ Carbon Discs
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP) 40 Amp
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017
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OUCH for sure. Where exactly was the piston cracked and did they by chance tell you the possible causes on how the piston got cracked? Detonation? Too much boost by accident? How many miles were on your engine?

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017
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First off welcome to the world of hot rodding, any time you change things you will have some sorting out to do so don't be discouraged cuz it goes with the territory.
I'll leave the drivability issues to the ones here that have turbo experience however I am willing to bet that the steering vibration issue is your steering shaft is touching the header on the driver's side ever so slightly - it's pretty tight down there but next time it's on the hoist have a look up there, hopefully it is as simple as shimming the shaft to clear. When I did long tubes I had to remove that shaft to get them in and then replace it after they were mounted. Might be your issue.
Good luck and Keep us posted - we're all in this together......

Scott

2014 GT Track Pack/Brembo/Recaro/Whiteline suspension system/Blowfish Racing shifter bracket - the 3.73 Torsen is so loud now that, with all due respect to Wade Chamberlain, BadFast has been renamed "The Whining Mistress"
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
OUCH for sure. Where exactly was the piston cracked and did they by chance tell you the possible causes on how the piston got cracked? Detonation? Too much boost by accident? How many miles were on your engine?
Crappy tune.



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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017
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With no compression due to a cracked piston in #7, the engine must have run like crap. I'm not offering any solutions by any means....just can't imagine the sound and vibration you must have been experiencing!


2018 Subaru Crosstrek Premium CVT
(traded my 2014 GT Premium automatic on 19 August 2017)
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