Problem With Removing Motor Mount - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017 Thread Starter
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Problem With Removing Motor Mount

I'm in the process of installing long tube headers and having trouble lifting the engine.

I've loosened the nuts on the isolator studs in the engine bay (actually removed the driver's side nut) and then I tried to lift the motor my using a floor jack and a block of wood under the bell housing. The whole front end of the car is lifting in stead of just the engine/transmission. From what I see, the engine/transmission is only supported by the two motor mounts and the transmission bracket. What else am I missing?

Thans for any help!



'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017
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Disconnect the steering shaft?


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017 Thread Starter
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Yes, I already had it disconnected.


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017
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I believe to get the clearance it requires slightly raising and supporting the engine to disconnect the mounts and removing the brackets.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017 Thread Starter
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Right, I need to lift the engine for clearance. But that's what I'm having trouble with; when I jack up on the bell housing the entire car is lifting, not the engine.


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017
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I'm stumped. Sounds like you did what is needed to do that.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017 Thread Starter
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I'm still stumped too!


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017 Thread Starter
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Do I also need to remove the two bolts that hold the isolator to the frame rail?


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017
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Yes. I had to do that on my 2012.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrbrBlu View Post
Do I also need to remove the two bolts that hold the isolator to the frame rail?
No you should not have to remove the 2 bolts attaching the mount to the frame of the car.

My car will also raise up a little when jacking the motor with nut removed from motor mount on one side. I usually only jack one side at a time. But if you keep jacking you will be able to lift the motor and the attached aluminum engine mount brackets off the stock rubber motor mount. On the driver side you won't be able to remove the motor mount without removing the aluminum engine mount bracket if you are upgrading to motor mounts like Steeda adjustable poly motor mounts.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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just take the nuts off the engine mount studs. one on each side, and the steering shaft. that's it.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017 Thread Starter
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Removing the two bolts that hold the isolator to the K-member was the only thing that worked for jacking up the engine. It still makes no sense though; with the nut removed from the stud the engine should have went right up. I got all the engine mount stuff down out of the way. Thanks for all the help.

Now I just need to figure out how to unclip the from O2 sensors.


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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