GT stalling at idle in stop go traffic :(
So for the first time since i had my car i was stuck in stop in go traffic on the highway(my legs are super sore). After about a half hour i noticed the idle rpms dip to around 200 briefly and at first would correct itself but then would completely stall the engine. Sometimes if im quick enough i can gas it and catch it before it stalls.It was about 3 or 4 times in a 1 hour period. I got off on an exit and was driving regularly(regular red light traffic) for a bit and that seemed to correct it but then came back again briefly when i hit another traffic block where it stalled again. about 20 minutes
-2011 mustang GT 107k miles
-airaid CAI (no sleeve)
-diablo 93 octane custom *canned not custom* tune
-jlt oil thingy
-have seen some weird idle surges rarely since i got the car in NOV/18 but never to the point of stalling.
-the CAI was installed only weeks ago so hard to tell if thats related
I'm going to poke around in the engine tomorrow. Any advice on what to look for and where would be appreciated. Thank you.
IMHO, here's the issue....
The aftermarket tune is too rich for either the idle or light throttle accel......causing the plugs to foul...when a miss is detected the ECM will automatically raise the rpm 200+ to keep the engine from stalling then slowly bring the idle speed back down unless there is another miss detected.
IMHO, not unusual for most of the "mail order" tunes.....IMHO, go back to stock
OP, is you tune from AM? I know they have had lots of issues in the past couple years and this symptom being one.
mhmm.. your suggestions that it might be the tune does bring me some catharsis as that is easily fixed. rather then say a bad fuel pump or something. . .
Its a canned tune. a friend gave me a I3 diablo sports tuner. They had a tune on there for airaid and 93 octane (after i bought the license) so i haven't interacted with AM in any way but I am going to remove it and try 89 or none at all and see if there is a difference. I will also inspect the CAI and use MAF cleaner although i though that that would throw a code.
appreciate the feedback.
*sorry i said custom tune i meant canned lol
Or you can also datalog the car and send file to whoever is your tuner so adjustment can be made.
A canned tune usually works best on a stock car because it simply made based on the components of a stock engine
You should data log your car and send the log to your tuner. This is one of the most important steps of getting a tune that some people don't do. If you have a lot of mods, it is almost necessary to data log so nothing catastrophic happens or so the car will have better drivability. Even with a stock car with an intake and a tune it is best to data log just to get the adjustments that the tune needs for your car. Just email your tuner about data logging and they should help you with it.
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Mine did this for the longest time on a BAMA 93R tune. Mail order tune for LTH, O/R H (no cats,) and a JLT intake. Tried a couple datalog sessions to fix it, never really fixed.. just less frequently. Mail order/canned tunes are going to run rich because it's safer than running too lean. When i put in my whipple, I changed to colder heat range plugs, took the old plugs out at only about 7k miles and they were pretty fouled up... mostly from the BAMA tune.
A pretty extensive amount of data logging is needed to have your tune adjusted across the rpms to get everything in check. It took 7 or 8 data logging sessions and 5 revised tunes with Lund to get my tune set for my whipple. Their process isn't much different for N/A cars so I'd imagine that would take about the same to properly tune yours too
Pre-Whipple, I tried running my stock tune on my car and it idled like hell, but I only did it for a short period of time because I needed something done at the dealer and didnt want to risk those dumbasses messing anything up
suggestion: before you go off on too big a wild goose chase with the tune, check the simple things first:
> clean the throttle body -- if it has never been cleaned in 107K miles, that could be the issue
> clean the MAF sensor -- probably not the issue, but it is easy to do, make sure you use the real MAF cleaner, not something else which might contaminate it . . . since the new CAI was installed recently, it might have been over-oiled, which throws oil onto the MAF sensor
> make sure air filter is fairly clean, and not over-oiled
once those things are eliminated, you could try putting in the sleeve in the intake so you can try the factory tune; if that eliminates the problem, then you know it is the tune
Yeah thats something in my purview. NOt quite sure what consists of data logging though other then running the tuner during WOT or something but im trying to reach out to someone. Diablo agents say they dont do email tunes and refer me out.
its not currently on a stock tune though. I put the airaid can tune on there to compensate for the bigger intake so it wouldnt freak out .I get what your saying though.
hopefully Airaid doesnt send there products in such manner. But i will be taking these steps.Thanks
Attached a screenshot of the data log off my car at idle after a couple minutes. i cant really capture the stall as it was so rare. I understand this is something i need to go over with a pro but perhaps there is something obviously wrong here that someone can point out while i wait for a response. the AFR looks high, my perspective being what the theoretical standard is though. not sure if its weird in this context.
I personally don't see anything wrong. However, I am betting it is your maf curve not being where it should be. If you were to do a wide open pull, with the car fully warmed up, let's say from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd the 4th and come to a stop, I would bet the car would die due to the maf curve not being where it should be. To fix this, you would need to send a data log to your tuner. I would recommend getting a tune from lund racing and data logging after you get a tune.
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However, I will say that my stalling issue BEFORE the whipple sounds VERY similar to what youre experiencing, and I was able to trigger it by doing a hard pull (2nd or 3rd gear 2500 to 6000rpm) but it would only stall after coming to a stop and trying to maintain idle, not like now where itll stall while im moving in neutral.
See if you can trigger a stall and catch it on a datalog. PM me for my email so you can send me the datalog that way and I can try to take a look at it.
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