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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019 Thread Starter
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My 2012 GT Premium

So I didn't like how my s197 can factory with LED Tailights but HID headlights and incandescence bulbs for everything else, so I upgraded all the incandescence bulbs to LED. Last week I replaced all the 194's with LED, Marker Lights & map lights and there was no problems. Yesterday I replaced the 3157a's in the front and the 912's in the reverse lights. Initially everything worked great but then night came and my headlights came on and suddenly my turn signals started flashing quickly. When I turn the lights off they work normally, and even with the headlights on the hazards work normally. I quick google search produced a failing turn flasher but with the original bulbs back in everything works normally.

Did I get the wrong bulbs? the local parts store looked it up and said that it takes 3157a for the front turns but when I just did a quick google search their own website says 3457NA. the bulbs I bought are replacements for 3157 3156 3057 4157 but not the 3457NA.

Thanks for any replies and information.

Edit: From what I can see the voltages are the same on the bulbs, but the amperage and wattages are different, Normal incandescence run at 3157A 25.2/7.1 watts 2.1/.59 amps while the 3457 is 28.16/8.26 watts and 2.23/.59 amps. I am not sure if this makes the diffference or not, the LEDs I put in operate at 5.4 watts and will operate at any voltage between 9-30v. no amperage rating that I can find tho. The companies official page says that it is a direct replacement for the 3457 also, but I might needs a load resister or decode to use them as turn signals, what are those and where do I find them?

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019
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I don't have a good clear answer for you . . . but I do know that weird things can happen with LED's; because they are not a simple resistor like a traditional light bulb, I'm pretty sure they do not operate by the good ol' Ohms Law V=IR. Circuits that were designed for the old style bulbs don't always work right with LED's, especially when there are soft controls in the circuit that are looking for the expected voltage and current. Personally I probably would not mess with it because I wouldn't have the time or patience to troubleshoot it and figure it out.

PS -- when I saw the subject line of your post, I was expecting to see pictures of your "new to you" 2012 GT . . . don't know if you can change the subject line now, but you might get a better response if the subject line summarized your question

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019
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Sadly enough, another case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Anytime you mix and match high draw parts with low draw factory parts you'll get problems. Time to make further modifications to make things play together nicely.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019 Thread Starter
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Don't want to disappoint, sorry about the misleading subject.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Travis98146 View Post
Sadly enough, another case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Anytime you mix and match high draw parts with low draw factory parts you'll get problems. Time to make further modifications to make things play together nicely.
I came here for some constructive advice, not your personal opinion that makes people think that you believe everyone other than YOU is an idiot. keep those to your self in future please, and ask if maybe there is a reason for this swap-out before expressing your half thought-out opinions in a game to bolster your self esteem at the hopeful expense of diminishing others opinions of themselves.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019
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Originally Posted by renouji View Post
Don't want to disappoint, sorry about the misleading subject.
Nice! and it's the best color too . . . no worries about the subject line, I was just suggesting how you might get more responses to your question . . . guess you can't change it now
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renouji View Post
I came here for some constructive advice, not your personal opinion that makes people think that you believe everyone other than YOU is an idiot. keep those to your self in future please, and ask if maybe there is a reason for this swap-out before expressing your half thought-out opinions in a game to bolster your self esteem at the hopeful expense of diminishing others opinions of themselves.
Let's all keep respect for each other and there opinions,we all have the love of the Mustang hobby,and have different thoughts and opinions on how to best enjoy it.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renouji View Post
I came here for some constructive advice, not your personal opinion that makes people think that you believe everyone other than YOU is an idiot. keep those to your self in future please, and ask if maybe there is a reason for this swap-out before expressing your half thought-out opinions in a game to bolster your self esteem at the hopeful expense of diminishing others opinions of themselves.
As upset as you are by the comment, they are more or less correct with their reply. LED and and normal bulbs have different electrical draw requirements, and a rapid flash is typically a result of that. You need more "resistance" to get an accurate flasher rate, something that isn't always plug and play. An LED draws very little power, causing a system designed for normal bulbs to think it has a bulb burned out, aka, the fast flasher.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Old Goat Ninja View Post
As upset as you are by the comment, they are more or less correct with their reply. LED and and normal bulbs have different electrical draw requirements, and a rapid flash is typically a result of that. You need more "resistance" to get an accurate flasher rate, something that isn't always plug and play. An LED draws very little power, causing a system designed for normal bulbs to think it has a bulb burned out, aka, the fast flasher.
I realize this issue, thats why I came here to find out if there are any plug and play load resistors or decode. Unfortunately like I stated earlier there is need of this, the previous owner removed the stock HID headlamps and replaced them with regular headlamps, they also upgraded the fog lights to HID, how ever those over heated and can't be used anymore. I do not have the money nor time at the moment to get this fixed as it is quite expensive and I drive through the mountains around here, sometimes with real thick fog and have been stopped and ticketed by highway patrol for not being visible enough, and warned by the judge to increase my vehicles visibility.
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try contacting Diode Dynamics -- they do a lot with LED lighting systems and might be able to help

I don't understand why there would be any problem with visibility of your car, with the standard lighting . . . was there something specific that the highway patrol said that you need? Around here it is the opposite, the highway patrol sometimes gives tickets for headlights that are too bright, because the original bulbs were replaced with LED's or HID's that glare like crazy.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019 Thread Starter
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try contacting Diode Dynamics -- they do a lot with LED lighting systems and might be able to help

I don't understand why there would be any problem with visibility of your car, with the standard lighting . . . was there something specific that the highway patrol said that you need? Around here it is the opposite, the highway patrol sometimes gives tickets for headlights that are too bright, because the original bulbs were replaced with LED's or HID's that glare like crazy.
The issue is that the incadenscance bulbs were not making me visible enough in the thick fog when I drove though it. Normally I would turn on the fog lights to increase the visibility of my car right? however the previous owner installed an aftermarket HID fog light system (which is technically illegal here any HID headlamps or foglights have to be factory), thats not the problem tho these aftermarket HID fog lights overheated and no longer work. This part is an assumption, but I think they removed the factory HID headlights and installed normal incandescence headlamps to offset the added heat and/or voltage of the HID foglight? I'm not too technical with this stuff but either way its a few bucks to put in bright LED bulbs than a few thousand dollars on getting my light electrical system rebuilt back to factory specs, which would have been fine if I hadn't had to pay to get that MT82 transmission completely rebuilt from the getgo (Yes I was aware of all the issue before I bought the car thats why I got such a great deal on it).

And thank you for that, I am emailing them right now about further solutions to my issue, maybe they can even help me get all my headlamp/foglight issues fixed to reasonably factory specs and remain LED. that would be awesome but I would be happier with getting it all back to factory specs.
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I'm older so I'm going to give you my older opinion of what I would do. With standard flashers years ago if you hooked up a trailer there would be additional draw on the circuit. This would cause the signals to flash quickly. You had to go and get a " heavy duty" flasher to handle this additional load to get a normal signal flash. I would try to see if there was a replacement flasher that could help with a lower draw. Again I'm old (58) so I may be way off. Good luck

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by josie View Post
I'm older so I'm going to give you my older opinion of what I would do. With standard flashers years ago if you hooked up a trailer there would be additional draw on the circuit. This would cause the signals to flash quickly. You had to go and get a " heavy duty" flasher to handle this additional load to get a normal signal flash. I would try to see if there was a replacement flasher that could help with a lower draw. Again I'm old (58) so I may be way off. Good luck

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Not that much older, but thats a good idea that I also looked into. apparently a decode is a replacement for the flasher, I think (but haven't done any research on this yet) that LED flashers are what these sites are calling a decode. I have not done enough research on these LED flashers to know if they still mess with the battery management computer either.
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I believe there is no flasher on later model Fords. All the lighting systems are controlled by the LCM(light Control Module). Otherwise it might also be controlled by the main computer depending on year and model.
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While reading this thread it got me thinking about something I encounter each and every night while driving my box truck at night and thought someone here would have an answer. For a couple years now I have noticed that almost every Jeep vehicle I see has the brightest lights that are just downright annoying. I always think they are high beaming me but if I flash them they really turn on the high beams and it is just ridiculous. Does anyone else encounter this or have an answer why they are so bright? I do see some other cars trucks with very bright lights but Jeeps are by far the biggest offender IMO.

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