I don't have any personal experience with '11 or '12 cars. A friend of mine had a '13 track pack car and I don't recall him ever having any problems. It's been reported [ no personal knowledge ] that the factory did change the specs for the transmission oil on later models. I have just under 53,000 miles on my '14 and I think the transmission shifts pretty smoothly other than the previously mentioned 1-2 shift. I bought my car new and I found out not too long after I got the car that the factory rev limiter is set for 6,750-6,800 rpm, not the 7,000 the car magazines said it was. It's a hard limiter, not a soft one. I try to shift at 6,600 if I really want to hustle it, most of the time it's a bit under 6,000 if I just want to get on it. In any case the clutch has never hung up. Maybe I am just lucky. It seems that just about all the clutches today, both factory and aftermarket are of the diaphragm design [ basically a big Belleville washer ]. In the old days [ I was drag racing in the '60's ] nobody that had any choice in the matter would have used a diaphragm clutch as they lacked holding power and were known to hang up at high rpm. As a bit of old time trivia Chevys used a cheap diaphragm clutch and Mopars used a Borg & Beck style which was MUCH better, but resulted in a lot more effort at the pedal. Both Chrysler and Chevy used the same bolt pattern on the pressure plate/flywheel. It didn't take long before Chevy guys were either using Chrysler clutches or using aftermarket Borg & Beck style clutches. Ford often used the Long style pressure plates which were a variation on the Borg & Beck. I suppose the aftermarket has found a way to make the diaphragm design work. Even the factory versions are much better than they used to be. The Boss 302 clutch SHOULD be good to at least 7,500 rpm. Again no personal experience.