Overheating Issue - Ford Mustang Forum
Like Tree7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Overheating Issue

Hello all,

First off, thank you for providing any feedback or possible solutions. My problem is that my 2013 Mustang GT Paxton Supercharged car is running very hot. I’d say the first 10 minutes the Cyl. Head temps (according to gauge on menu) will stay around 210°-220°, then begins to rise to 225-332° never goes above that. Took it to a shop to get a aftermarket radiator put in, told me they couldn’t get one to fit. And they would find one that would, sooo 10 days later & $900 down the drain. They call me and tell me the radiator that was supposed to fit, no longer fits with my fan shroud(OEM). So there solution is for me to buy 2 electric slim fans....so that is what I did hoping this will solve this problem....NOPE! The fans come in & to no surprise they call and say it doesn’t fit. So what they did was put the stock radiator back in and installed the 2 electrics fan on. So now I am here in this position, btw the electric fans did help alittle but not enough to keep the temperatures low enough( I figured it wouldn’t be enough). So my question is what should my next step be? Has anyone had this problem before? I have the Paxton SL2200 Supercharged. Cooling setup from Front to Back is IC, Oil Cooler, Radiator. So I see why the radiator isn’t getting cold air due to it being farther back, what can I do? Also I have the stock 192 Thermo & Waterpump.
This picture was taken PRIOR to the installation of the 2 electric fans. Also blower filter was removed so you can get a better view.
This picture was taken PRIOR to the installation of the 2 electric fans. Also blower filter was removed so you can get a better view.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	A01B8739-FD96-443A-A0AA-5EAAA6CAE9FF_1561514087486.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	921.2 KB
ID:	610421  
SCTman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019
PONY Member
 
baylensmanfl's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2017
Location: largo
Posts: 572
 
If just the heads are getting that hot, perhaps its time to look elsewhere other than the radiator and fan set up. Is there a clogged cooling passage somewhere? Is it both heads or is the menu a combined reading? Use a pyrometer or small contact thermo-probe and check the both heads from to back is a localized issue (one or more cylinders) or both heads uniformly?

remember any forced induction will raise the temps. Do you have a reading on the intake air temps? Where is the air intake engine compartment or isolated with a CIA or perhaps intercooler?

Is the temp issue causing other issues like lowered performance or drivability issues?


I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL
baylensmanfl is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by baylensmanfl View Post
If just the heads are getting that hot, perhaps its time to look elsewhere other than the radiator and fan set up. Is there a clogged cooling passage somewhere? Is it both heads or is the menu a combined reading? Use a pyrometer or small contact thermo-probe and check the both heads from to back is a localized issue (one or more cylinders) or both heads uniformly?

remember any forced induction will raise the temps. Do you have a reading on the intake air temps? Where is the air intake engine compartment or isolated with a CIA or perhaps intercooler?

Is the temp issue causing other issues like lowered performance or drivability issues?

The 2 electric fans are brand new and still work properly. The radiator has been flushed inside and out, no clogs. Brushed the fins too. I am getting the temp. Reading via menu. I will show a picture. I can get a more accurate read if you would be able to direct me on where to point a temp gun. I am aware that forced induction does increase temperatures but I feel as if it shouldn’t be that high. Inlets temps in morning & night are 70-80° during day usually 100-115°. The filter is off to the right in the open space there with a heat shield. I do have a intercooler. I can take more pictures to show. Haven’t noticed any drivability or performance loss, but I do not want my engine running hot. Trying to keep it cool so I can increase the longevity.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	E06024C7-E619-4D0A-8F73-6110CE55B35F_1561554109397.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	696.2 KB
ID:	610425  
SCTman is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019
SHELBY GT 350 Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
JBert's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 8,931
           
Do the high temps occur when you are moving, or stationary? If they happen when you are moving, then the extra fan won't make much difference if any, because there is usually plenty of airflow through the radiator when the car is moving, even with the fan off.

Take a look at Department of Boost web site for some guidelines on IAT's . . . your numbers don't sound bad to me, but that is the first place I would focus; I'm thinking you might need to improve the intercooler. Are those numbers under boost, or at idle?

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
JBert is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
Do the high temps occur when you are moving, or stationary? If they happen when you are moving, then the extra fan won't make much difference if any, because there is usually plenty of airflow through the radiator when the car is moving, even with the fan off.

Take a look at Department of Boost web site for some guidelines on IAT's . . . your numbers don't sound bad to me, but that is the first place I would focus; I'm thinking you might need to improve the intercooler. Are those numbers under boost, or at idle?
Okay I will take a look at the guidelines & those temperatures are always like that. Moving & Stationary. It always eventually goes up 220-235°. I have seen a couple things about Radiator ducting. I may have to do that. I have thought maybe it isn’t cool enough since the intercooler and oil cooler are in front of it so there isn’t any “new” air or cold air coming in through it.
SCTman is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019
GT Member
4.6L Member
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
crjackson2134's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2015
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,129
 
Garage
.
Did you upgrade your water pump when installing the SC. Some places (including DOB) suggest upgrading the water pump for higher flow. I don't know how effective it is, so I'm just throwing that out there for your consideration & investigation.
.
5.0 Coyote likes this.


2014 Black GT Premium w/Track Pack - 401A - (Apocalypse)
2018 Black Nissan 370Z Nismo - (Lucille-2)
crjackson2134 is online now  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,303
           
IMHO, I would call Paxton....they may have some real recommendations and solid advise on the engine temps...if that is what is to be expected and possible options that they believe might work.
JBert likes this.

:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is online now  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019
SHELBY GT 350 Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
JBert's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 8,931
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
IMHO, I would call Paxton.....
good point, they probably know exactly what is going on and what to do, eliminate the guess-work
Beechkid likes this.

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
JBert is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crjackson2134 View Post
.
Did you upgrade your water pump when installing the SC. Some places (including DOB) suggest upgrading the water pump for higher flow. I don't know how effective it is, so I'm just throwing that out there for your consideration & investigation.
.
No I have not yet. But I was looking at a high flow water pump...that was my 2nd option
SCTman is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
IMHO, I would call Paxton....they may have some real recommendations and solid advise on the engine temps...if that is what is to be expected and possible options that they believe might work.
Will do, thank you! Will follow up.
SCTman is offline  
post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Follow up. Called Paxton, explained my overheating situation. Guy basically told me I have 2 options, Methanol Injection or a colder thermostat....very helpful.
5.0 Coyote likes this.
SCTman is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
JBert's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 8,931
           
did they confirm that those temps are actually too high? I am not sure what is normal but 220-235 doesn't seem super hot to me, I wouldn't be surprised if they get a lot hotter than that at high RPM

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
JBert is offline  
post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
SCTman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
did they confirm that those temps are actually too high? I am not sure what is normal but 220-235 doesn't seem super hot to me, I wouldn't be surprised if they get a lot hotter than that at high RPM
No they didn’t give me a direct answer after asking multiple times. Took it to a local trust worthy shoo & asked. They recommended a high flow water pump until I can find a better radiator. Owner there told me the temps are not bad except for anything over 230° I need to be careful. Won’t cause immediate damage unless the car goes into limp mode obviously. But over prolonged time of ~230° Will eventually cause wear.
crjackson2134 likes this.
SCTman is offline  
GT Member
4.6L Member
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
crjackson2134's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2015
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,129
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTman View Post
They recommended a high flow water pump until I can find a better radiator.
Let us know how it pans out.


2014 Black GT Premium w/Track Pack - 401A - (Apocalypse)
2018 Black Nissan 370Z Nismo - (Lucille-2)
crjackson2134 is online now  
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,303
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTman View Post
No they didn’t give me a direct answer after asking multiple times. Took it to a local trust worthy shoo & asked. They recommended a high flow water pump until I can find a better radiator. Owner there told me the temps are not bad except for anything over 230° I need to be careful. Won’t cause immediate damage unless the car goes into limp mode obviously. But over prolonged time of ~230° Will eventually cause wear.
A higher flow water pump IMHO is just the opposite of what you need unless the shop did the thermal calcs….when coolant is flowed at a higher rate it has less time to absorb the heat and less time to expel the heat....secondly to "find' a radiator that is going to handle that, well, that is doable but costly because its going to be a custom built unit....IMHO, $1k+....


The advise Paxton gave regarding the water/meth injection, is IMHO the absolutely the best and most cost effective recommendation.....because it is focused on the source not the secondary remediation aspect......this will also help with additional combustion chamber cooling because as the software detects potential/actual detonation, is pulls back the timing more, which can create more secondary system heat....the water/meth not only reduces/eliminates this but as a result, the timing is not reduced and the fuel mixt maintains a greater constant...…


back in the late 70's I had a engine I built...10.5:1 CR and 180 psi cylinder pressure......and then came the no lead gas and reduced octane...down to 91.....I installed what was a water vapor injector.....it worked excellent!!!!!


Cooler thermostat....IMHO, I would install the water/meth injection 1st, see how the engine likes it, then if necessary go to the cooler thermostat.


:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1