Clutch? Help please! - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019 Thread Starter
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Hey guys and gals, new here. I was driving my 14 GT couple days ago and dead in traffic got locked out of gear, no funny business before hand. Car would not allow me into gear unless I had the car off, then it would let me into gears, I would have to start the car IN first and get it going on its own power, i was shifting in the higher RPMS before this happened but NOTHING close to red line. I can RPM match and drive but the clutch wont do a thing, it makes some noises sometimes when trying to rpm match and when getting into first. ANYONE have any idea what it is? I cant see it being the entire clutch being bad. Dont feel like payin 1700 for a new set of parts. There is no fluid coming out either. Please help! Thanks!
14 GT, Stock trans/clutch etc
Edit: 80k miles, driven moderately, maybe a burnout or 2 back at mile 10,000 none since then.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019
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I would say at 80k,and if it is the original clutch,you got your monies out of it and it is time for a new clutch,throw out bearing,pressure plate,nothing lasts forever, replace it and continue to enjoy your Mustang. Keep us posted as to your out come.
5.0 Coyote.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019
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I have to agree with Coyote. Your clutch disc/pressure plate is used up. I don't think you'll be out $1700 for parts unless you're looking at performance parts. The stock ones should be fine. Bite the bullet, fix it and enjoy the drive.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019
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2 years ago my 2008 needed a new clutch and a rebuilt was looking at 2-3K installed. Naturally I didn't do the rebuilt

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019
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IMHO, a clutch assembly is only as good (longevity) as the conditions its exposed to....with normal driving, the assembly should last 100k miles......since you are saying that you have to shut the engine off to get it in gear, I'm guessing the TO bearing or the hydraulic line to it has failed, otherwise, you would be experiencing grinding, chatter, or something along with this. depending on mileage & clutch assembly wear, assuming it's the TO bearing, this might be a much less expensive fix, especially if the clutch assembly is showing little to no wear.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019
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Originally Posted by RB4477 View Post
but the clutch wont do a thing
Does it go to the floor without resistance? What does the pedal feel like?

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019
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I agree with BEECHKID; seems like it's in the TO Brg. or hydraulic line.
If it proves out to be the line, you'd behoove yourself to replace with a braided line while you're at it.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019
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Just to add my 2 cents to the conversation. It may well be the throw out bearing, but if I had to go to all the trouble of pulling the transmission on a car with 80,000 miles on it I would at least pull the pressure plate and examine the flywheel, disc and pressure plate for wear. check the pilot shaft bearing in the back of the crankshaft too. If they're nearly mint you can reuse them, but if in any doubt, replace them now while it's already apart. Another possible cause of your problem could be a broken clutch part. I had this happen once on my old '72 'Cuda. One of the small springs in the clutch disc hub broke and a small piece of it lodged in between the disc and pressure plate and prevented proper disengagement. Make sure to tighten the pressure plate bolts in a star shaped pattern in stages to their torque specs with locktite when reinstalling. Make sure that the throw out bearing is full of fluid and bled before installing. Replacing the plastic factory clutch line is a good idea too. This is the sort of job I would only want to do once. Good luck.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019 Thread Starter
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One of the springs came out of the clutch, forgot to take pics but the dealer and I came to the conclusion that what their tech/drive up guy did could have aggravated/caused the issue. New OEM clutch etc going in as we speak and they picked up the labor tab. The dealership was very fair and I commend them for admitting they could have caused the issue, they didnt want to at first (obviously) but expressing my concern and facts to the service mgr i feel played a part in his decision to waive the labor cost. Thanks again guys.
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Glad the dealership came through for you. Broken clutch spring, sounds familiar. See my original post.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Glad you narrowed it down.
Wish you would have come back to the forum for guidance. More than a few of us would have directed you to a McLeod RST set; which probably wouldn't have cost that much more than what Dealerships typically charge.
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