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Why am I not hooking up?

3K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  OX1 
#1 ·
...not talking about women either.

I enjoy the occasional light to light drag, but I have not been able to get this thing to get the power to the pavement. I have a 2014 GT manual with a few bolt on and tune(385RWH). I installed Eibach Sportline springs, Whiteline LCA and panhard bar. Just installed Firestone Indy 500's, all around, with a 285/35-19 rear. The launch is great but I'm spinning when I banging though 2nd & 3rd. Is it me or can I do something to get get this thing to hook up. I drive it similar to my stock Challenger R/T without issue.
 
#2 ·
when you upsized the tires, did you also get wider wheels? if you have the original 8" or 8.5" wide wheels then you are not getting full benefit of the wider tires; though that is probably not a major thing . . . but I'm thinking you probably need more tire in general



LCA relocation brackets might help a little
 
#3 ·
I have a 8.5 in front and 10" in rear. The tire/rim combo is properly set up. I thought about the relo brackets but I don't want to get too deep into sinking money into "may work" solutions. I really don't see too many other options than what I already have, for the street that is. Maybe I just have to get accustomed to what I already have. Every car is different.
 
#5 ·
Last sentence you wrote is key. The Challenger rt is heavier, less powerful and has a different rear suspension than a Mustang GT which is lighter, has more power and has a different suspension.

Tires are one key component to hooking up. But driving technique is as important. Two different cars require two different techniques.
 
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#4 ·
the LCA relocation brackets don't cost much and they are recommended for lowered cars to correct the geometry after lowering . . . I think they are probably worth the time and effort
 
#6 ·
The LCA,s really need to be in the right plain after lowering. Brackets will help this. Tire compound will also help. I have Nitto 555 G2's and they work very well.
 
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#9 ·
I second this. I lowered my 2013 1" with Voigtland springs, and just recently installed Whiteline lower and adjustable upper arm. And it is super easy to break loose my rear tires. I am supposed to get my Nitto's this week, but my LCA relocation brackets from Steeda were on back-order and only just shipped, so my rear arms are in the stock location. I did a lot of research on the relocation brackets and was dubious as to the need with only 1" lowering. But from what I researched the LCA's should be parallel to the ground when the car is sitting on the tires, at least that was the Ford engineers intent. This should promote a neutral position for best overall handling, ride, etc. Having the arms located so the axle mount is lower than the frame mount is supposed to create a leverage situation where the axle wanting to rotate will "push" up on the body / pushing the tires down into the pavement for more traction. This is why they are used for drag racing. In the position mine are at with 1" lowering, the axle rotation pulls down on the body lifting the rear axle and breaking loose the tires. Now, I can't speak to lowering the axle mount for drag racing as my relocation brackets are still in transit and I haven't personally tested this, although the premise is sound. But I can confirm that my traction is definitely reduced in my current configuration. I mainly plan to drive on street and the local road coarse when it's completed, so I am only looking to make my rear arms parallel to the ground. I will be happy to report back after this weekend and tell you if they work as advertised.
 
#8 ·
^ that's a biggie . . . "summer only" tires are generally good from about 60 degrees up; below about 50 they get pretty hard and below 40 or so they turn to hockey pucks
 
#23 ·
I agree in general, but I was really surprised how well Mich PS4S tires worked, even down to 35.
I've got non DR NT05 (295's) on the back of my 14, and they suck in the cold.
 
#10 ·
Not saying anything new, but rather shortening it. Two keys issues here. 1st and biggest is cold temps and spinning go together like cake and icing when using any performance tires and especially with summer tires... 2nd issue is you lowered the car and that can cause things to be off and the relocation brackets will pull that all back in line and help out. Doing this will not fix the issue in the winter on summer tires. Do the brackets and in the summer all will be perfectly solved as road temps climb back up.
 
#12 ·
Stock RT's aren't that fast. I don't see how you think your RT is faster than your GT. A stock Challenger R/T is slower than my (bolt on's only) v6 Mustang :)
 
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#15 ·
Maybe I just cant drive. lol I've only had the car for about a month now and I'm still trying to dial everything in properly(suspension wise). I think I need some, balls to the wall, practice time with it next spring. It's not my first time at the rodeo, but this mustang is a different creature than what I'm used to.

Dave, I'm not saying that my R/T "is" faster, it just feels faster. My Challenger pulls like a mule and doesn't let up. I just don't feel the same rush. My best track time for the R/T was 13.1 with just track tires and axle back exhaust. I'll have to see what the stang will do next spring. :grin:
 
#19 ·



Did you buy your Mustang, new? Did you or the last owner change the rear end lube?

This is what happened to me.....I had my local Ford dealer change my rear gears to 3.73's. I was going to change the gear lube at 500 miles. Didn't have to but wanted to. I backed out onto my street and did a nice burnout before I changed the lube. I looked and it was just one tire burning, I called my dealer and asked to see if they messed something up. The gear guy told me he always puts two bottles (8 oz) of friction modifier when he installs new gears so they can break in better. I told him I'm changing the gear lube right now. He told me to use the right amount (4 oz) of friction modifier and I'll have both tires pulling again. I changed the gear lube but only put in 3 oz of the 4 oz bottle in and everything is working as it should. I saved the other oz just in case I had clutch chatter on curves, I didn't and never had to add the other oz.

Are you sure both tires are pulling? If not, that's why you don't have traction :)
 
#17 ·
That's a good time for your R/T. My best is a 13.2, but remember I have a v6 :(. You should run around a 12.5-12.7 with a tune in your GT. Your not getting any traction. I know you know that, maybe someone will figure out your problem :)
 
#18 ·
Speedknot, your R/T is heavier, but it also has a lot more car situated over the rear axle, so when you get on it, weight transfers hard to squash the rear tires and keep 'em planted. Your Mustang has a lot more power on tap, but also won't transfer the weight as readily, if you just try the "mash it and go" approach that your R/T loves. Instead, you'll just make smoke and go nowhere. With zero insult intended, I think this is mostly a case of learning to drive the car!


You'll often hear hardcore guys say this, and it's very true: Driving a slow car fast is more fun than driving a fast car slow.


But in this case, I think it's more of a case of you just figuring out how to feel the road, and knowing what your Mustang's going to do. It's more of a skill-based car, but the rewards will be great. =)
 
#21 ·
Temps are everything. I live in philly and you arent gonna hook a GT on street tires from now to about april in the NE part of the country lol. I just got a set of the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and car hooks great when its warm.
 
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#22 ·
I just installed my Steeda LCA relocation brackets this weekend and can report that they definitely made a big noticeable difference at first glance. My local track is closed for winter, so I can't give any time slips before and after yet, but I do drive my car spiritedly around. And there are a couple of areas that I consistently lost traction if I got too happy with the throttle. I can say for sure that the improvement has been significant. Beforehand my LCA's angled up to my rear axle after I lowered my car. I tried to get as close to parallel as possible, and ended up with the arms angled down to the rear axle by maybe a couple degrees. Seat of the pants feel is much improved and I feel confident flicking my car around corners without fear of the rear end stepping out. So check your LCA angle and install some relocation brackets if they are angled up to the axle, you won't regret it.:grin:
 
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