Why am I not hooking up? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Why am I not hooking up?

...not talking about women either.

I enjoy the occasional light to light drag, but I have not been able to get this thing to get the power to the pavement. I have a 2014 GT manual with a few bolt on and tune(385RWH). I installed Eibach Sportline springs, Whiteline LCA and panhard bar. Just installed Firestone Indy 500's, all around, with a 285/35-19 rear. The launch is great but I'm spinning when I banging though 2nd & 3rd. Is it me or can I do something to get get this thing to hook up. I drive it similar to my stock Challenger R/T without issue.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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when you upsized the tires, did you also get wider wheels? if you have the original 8" or 8.5" wide wheels then you are not getting full benefit of the wider tires; though that is probably not a major thing . . . but I'm thinking you probably need more tire in general



LCA relocation brackets might help a little


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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I have a 8.5 in front and 10" in rear. The tire/rim combo is properly set up. I thought about the relo brackets but I don't want to get too deep into sinking money into "may work" solutions. I really don't see too many other options than what I already have, for the street that is. Maybe I just have to get accustomed to what I already have. Every car is different.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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the LCA relocation brackets don't cost much and they are recommended for lowered cars to correct the geometry after lowering . . . I think they are probably worth the time and effort

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedknot View Post
I have a 8.5 in front and 10" in rear. The tire/rim combo is properly set up. I thought about the relo brackets but I don't want to get too deep into sinking money into "may work" solutions. I really don't see too many other options than what I already have, for the street that is. Maybe I just have to get accustomed to what I already have. Every car is different.
Last sentence you wrote is key. The Challenger rt is heavier, less powerful and has a different rear suspension than a Mustang GT which is lighter, has more power and has a different suspension.

Tires are one key component to hooking up. But driving technique is as important. Two different cars require two different techniques.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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The LCA,s really need to be in the right plain after lowering. Brackets will help this. Tire compound will also help. I have Nitto 555 G2's and they work very well.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Let's see,,,,, You've just installed "SUMMER" tires, and running them in Long Island, New York at this time of year? I think that's your biggest problem.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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^ that's a biggie . . . "summer only" tires are generally good from about 60 degrees up; below about 50 they get pretty hard and below 40 or so they turn to hockey pucks

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusman59 View Post
The LCA,s really need to be in the right plain after lowering. Brackets will help this. Tire compound will also help. I have Nitto 555 G2's and they work very well.

I second this. I lowered my 2013 1" with Voigtland springs, and just recently installed Whiteline lower and adjustable upper arm. And it is super easy to break loose my rear tires. I am supposed to get my Nitto's this week, but my LCA relocation brackets from Steeda were on back-order and only just shipped, so my rear arms are in the stock location. I did a lot of research on the relocation brackets and was dubious as to the need with only 1" lowering. But from what I researched the LCA's should be parallel to the ground when the car is sitting on the tires, at least that was the Ford engineers intent. This should promote a neutral position for best overall handling, ride, etc. Having the arms located so the axle mount is lower than the frame mount is supposed to create a leverage situation where the axle wanting to rotate will "push" up on the body / pushing the tires down into the pavement for more traction. This is why they are used for drag racing. In the position mine are at with 1" lowering, the axle rotation pulls down on the body lifting the rear axle and breaking loose the tires. Now, I can't speak to lowering the axle mount for drag racing as my relocation brackets are still in transit and I haven't personally tested this, although the premise is sound. But I can confirm that my traction is definitely reduced in my current configuration. I mainly plan to drive on street and the local road coarse when it's completed, so I am only looking to make my rear arms parallel to the ground. I will be happy to report back after this weekend and tell you if they work as advertised.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Not saying anything new, but rather shortening it. Two keys issues here. 1st and biggest is cold temps and spinning go together like cake and icing when using any performance tires and especially with summer tires... 2nd issue is you lowered the car and that can cause things to be off and the relocation brackets will pull that all back in line and help out. Doing this will not fix the issue in the winter on summer tires. Do the brackets and in the summer all will be perfectly solved as road temps climb back up.

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Last sentence you wrote is key. The Challenger rt is heavier, less powerful and has a different rear suspension than a Mustang GT which is lighter, has more power and has a different suspension.

Tires are one key component to hooking up. But driving technique is as important. Two different cars require two different techniques.
You guys just love to spend my money. All kidding aside, I'll give the relo brackets a try. You guys make some good points. I was really on the fence about the summer vs all season tires. I went with the Indy 500's because they were readily available and a bit cheaper than the all season tires in my size(s). Firestone was running a $100 promo as well. I'm garaging my car in the winter so I thought the summer tires would be ok. I did have these tires on with mid 70 temps and they performed ok. The other night it was upper 50's and these acted like a different creature. I can definitely see the compound being a factor with colder temps. I guess I cant expect much when the temps drop around here. Would I have done better with all seasons?



Hey Onez. I guess what you're saying is that my heavy, less powerful R/T is a better runner than my lighter, overpowered mustang? I really haven't ran the mustang through it paces at optimal temps and road conditions, but my stock R/T seems quicker and more controlled on the 1/4 mile. I'm damned with these tires if I cant harness the 420pony's. Summer on Long Island is too short.

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JLT CAI, Custom Tune, Eibach Sportline springs
Whiteline LCA & Panhard Bar
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Stock RT's aren't that fast. I don't see how you think your RT is faster than your GT. A stock Challenger R/T is slower than my (bolt on's only) v6 Mustang
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedknot View Post


Hey Onez. I guess what you're saying is that my heavy, less powerful R/T is a better runner than my lighter, overpowered mustang? I really haven't ran the mustang through it paces at optimal temps and road conditions, but my stock R/T seems quicker and more controlled on the 1/4 mile. I'm damned with gthese tires if I cant harness the 420pony's. Summer on Long Island is too short.
True, if the lightweight car with more power doesn't wear the optimum shoes and can't get technique down to get out of the blocks and make it over the hurdles. In many cases we all have seen where the heavier less powered car has more advantage even if it has less potential.

My charger originally came with 245 wide tires and all they would do is spin whether starting out or flooring it while rolling at 40. It's almost 4400 pounds, with 485 hp and 475 torque. Needless to say I don't have 245 RSA-2 tires on it anymore but the car can still overpower the tires. Often while driving the Dodge, someone with a Mustang or another Dodge wants to showboat with me which I do not do. HP is one thing, torque is another and even heavy weights can outperform lightweights. We have a 1/8 track nearby and while ts not the most powerful street car it certainly holds its own and some. The car is de-badged except the rear deck so most people think its probably an SXT with sewer pipe size exhaust.



On the other end of the spectrum my 2012 GT/R2300 excels the scat pack. It is configured to handle more power than the factory 412 the car came with and the R2300 is intentionally programmed to ramp up and limit to 525 in order to retain the factory converter and auto transmission. However, it will break loos if the power is not modulated carefully from a stop. I simply can't underscore the criticality tires and driver play in any car.

Spend wisely and have fun.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedknot View Post
You guys just love to spend my money. All kidding aside, I'll give the relo brackets a try. You guys make some good points. I was really on the fence about the summer vs all season tires. I went with the Indy 500's because they were readily available and a bit cheaper than the all season tires in my size(s). Firestone was running a $100 promo as well. I'm garaging my car in the winter so I thought the summer tires would be ok. I did have these tires on with mid 70 temps and they performed ok. The other night it was upper 50's and these acted like a different creature. I can definitely see the compound being a factor with colder temps. I guess I cant expect much when the temps drop around here. Would I have done better with all seasons?



Hey Onez. I guess what you're saying is that my heavy, less powerful R/T is a better runner than my lighter, overpowered mustang? I really haven't ran the mustang through it paces at optimal temps and road conditions, but my stock R/T seems quicker and more controlled on the 1/4 mile. I'm damned with these tires if I cant harness the 420pony's. Summer on Long Island is too short.
Your question of would you have done better with all seasons that answer is a little better, but not much. So if not driving a lot in the winter you made the right call. High HP/TQ cars aren't the best in colder temps overall. Heck any car really isn't. You can spin the tires on a kia when it gets cold enough out if you floor it... Cold roads turn tires rock solid and they just lose grip...

Current Garage
(11.)2012 GT500 silver with red stripe, SVT performance package, and Recaro seats.
2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Stock RT's aren't that fast. I don't see how you think your RT is faster than your GT. A stock Challenger R/T is slower than my (bolt on's only) v6 Mustang

Maybe I just cant drive. lol I've only had the car for about a month now and I'm still trying to dial everything in properly(suspension wise). I think I need some, balls to the wall, practice time with it next spring. It's not my first time at the rodeo, but this mustang is a different creature than what I'm used to.

Dave, I'm not saying that my R/T "is" faster, it just feels faster. My Challenger pulls like a mule and doesn't let up. I just don't feel the same rush. My best track time for the R/T was 13.1 with just track tires and axle back exhaust. I'll have to see what the stang will do next spring.


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Whiteline LCA & Panhard Bar
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