SHELBY GT 350 Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Central Massachusetts
for a road track car, if I had it to do all over again, I would literally start from the ground up and do these things in this order:
1) tires and wheels: 11" wide lightweight wheels, with 305 or 315 tires; on all 4 corners; you could evaluate different tires but Bridgestone RE-71R are the defacto "best" road track tire (some say they are not quite up to the weight of our cars so the best lap tends to be early in a session before they get too hot)
2) brakes, pads, and fluid: the 14" brembos are good for the front; for the rear go to the upsized GT500 rotors using the brackets that the guy sells on e-bay (or the FRPP kit if you want to pull the axle to install it). For pads you want a decent track pad such as Carbotech XP10/8 (front/back). For fluid Motul 600 is the defacto standard or Castrol SRF is said to be about the best. Brake cooling ducts are a good idea also but can wait. Solid rotors are fine, drilled/slotted rotors are a gimmick.
3) suspension: lower no more than 1" to keep the geometry from getting too wonky. Use the stiffest springs you can find. Vorschlag sells "special" Bilstein shocks/struts with springs and their caster/camber/mounts. Vorschlag's caster/camber/mounts are awesome, a lot of camber is needed -- 2 degrees or more. Don't buy cheap coilovers, get the good expensive ones or stick with regular struts/shocks/springs. upgrade the front lower control arm bushings to hard poly bushings. upgrade the rear lower control arms to something with a rotating bearing in it, and if you are going to do the one-piece driveshaft also get an adjustable rear upper control arm. Adjustable panhard bar is needed to get the rear end centered just right.
4) seat and safety equipment: at this point you will have a street car that is capable of race car speeds but does not have race car safety equipment. A good helmet is first; then HANS device; then better seats; finally a roll/harnes bar and full harness. Don't use a harness without a roll bar because it will hold you up in a rollover which can be really bad.
5) differential cooling -- finned cover and expansion tank (otherwise it will spew gear lube out the vent and/or blow the seals)
6) engine cooling -- many of the 2013-2014 cars that I see at the track have overheating issues . . . pretty sure Mishumoto oil cooler (NOT the Boss 302 oil heater) is the defacto go-to solution . . . I might also remove the engine covers and try to open up the hood vents so they really flow some air
7) engine mods -- you probably don't really need them, but you can put them last on the list. At my local track there is a 2008 GT with minimal engine mods that runs amazing lap times and I think he just has the above . . . plus a lot of seat time . . .
Which brings me back to the beginning: you can run your car just the way it is and gain skill with seat time, identify the weak points, then spend money on mods later.
| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
Last edited by JBert; 3 Weeks Ago at 04:32 PM.
Reason: added line breaks