Mod ideas and tips (corner carver) - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Talking Mod ideas and tips (corner carver)

So I bought a manual 2014 5.0 50k miles so far it has

StainlessWorks long tube headers - AirRaid CAI - 285/35/20 Drag radials (rear) - 255/35/20 All Season (front)

It is not my daily I only drive it on the weekends and I want to make it a track car. I have some ideas but I'm not completely sure if I'm going the right direction or what brands would be the best option. Here is my list of mods (IN ORDER), let me know if I should or shouldn't do any. of them and what brand would be best

First things first I need to get a tune since I'm losing power with no cats and it has the damn CEL on
next would be some DBA slotted rotors with Brembo calipers
EIBACH coilovers along with Upper and Lower control arms and a Panhard bar
Aluminum Driveshaft or Carbon fiber
Manifold or slightly bigger throttle body ?

Again I want to make it a track car. Thanks!

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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for a road track car, if I had it to do all over again, I would literally start from the ground up and do these things in this order:

1) tires and wheels: 11" wide lightweight wheels, with 305 or 315 tires; on all 4 corners; you could evaluate different tires but Bridgestone RE-71R are the defacto "best" road track tire (some say they are not quite up to the weight of our cars so the best lap tends to be early in a session before they get too hot)

2) brakes, pads, and fluid: the 14" brembos are good for the front; for the rear go to the upsized GT500 rotors using the brackets that the guy sells on e-bay (or the FRPP kit if you want to pull the axle to install it). For pads you want a decent track pad such as Carbotech XP10/8 (front/back). For fluid Motul 600 is the defacto standard or Castrol SRF is said to be about the best. Brake cooling ducts are a good idea also but can wait. Solid rotors are fine, drilled/slotted rotors are a gimmick.

3) suspension: lower no more than 1" to keep the geometry from getting too wonky. Use the stiffest springs you can find. Vorschlag sells "special" Bilstein shocks/struts with springs and their caster/camber/mounts. Vorschlag's caster/camber/mounts are awesome, a lot of camber is needed -- 2 degrees or more. Don't buy cheap coilovers, get the good expensive ones or stick with regular struts/shocks/springs. upgrade the front lower control arm bushings to hard poly bushings. upgrade the rear lower control arms to something with a rotating bearing in it, and if you are going to do the one-piece driveshaft also get an adjustable rear upper control arm. Adjustable panhard bar is needed to get the rear end centered just right.

4) seat and safety equipment: at this point you will have a street car that is capable of race car speeds but does not have race car safety equipment. A good helmet is first; then HANS device; then better seats; finally a roll/harnes bar and full harness. Don't use a harness without a roll bar because it will hold you up in a rollover which can be really bad.

5) differential cooling -- finned cover and expansion tank (otherwise it will spew gear lube out the vent and/or blow the seals)

6) engine cooling -- many of the 2013-2014 cars that I see at the track have overheating issues . . . pretty sure Mishumoto oil cooler (NOT the Boss 302 oil heater) is the defacto go-to solution . . . I might also remove the engine covers and try to open up the hood vents so they really flow some air

7) engine mods -- you probably don't really need them, but you can put them last on the list. At my local track there is a 2008 GT with minimal engine mods that runs amazing lap times and I think he just has the above . . . plus a lot of seat time . . .

Which brings me back to the beginning: you can run your car just the way it is and gain skill with seat time, identify the weak points, then spend money on mods later.

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| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day

Last edited by JBert; 3 Weeks Ago at 04:32 PM. Reason: added line breaks
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I think Bert has given you some very sound advice regarding handling mods. I use Vorschlag's street pro suspension on my '14 GT and it's just as the name implies, a good dual purpose set up. Tires and wheels are very important. My Boss 302 wheels are too narrow and too heavy. Nine inches wide and roughly 30 lbs. The best part about them is the cost, looks and correct offset. Offset is pretty important for a variety of reasons. In any case 11 inch width is about all you can stuff under these cars and still keep the tires within the fenders. At 11 inches you will have to do some real work to get everything to fit and you will almost certainly need to have different offsets front and rear. If you go to Vorschlag's web site they have a really detailed write up on a 2011 shop car that is definitely worth your time to look at before you start spending money. Speaking of money, do you own this car or does the bank own most of it? If you don't own it outright and you make modifications that the bank thinks adversely affects it's value this could be a problem. If you decide to track the car are you prepared to write it off and still pay the bank off on a totaled car? This probably won't happen, but you really need to think about it. At least the car is old enough to be out of warranty so mods won't cause an issue there. Have fun and good luck.
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