driveshaft angle - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019 Thread Starter
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driveshaft angle

HI :-) I just installed a steeda stage 3 suspension kit + panhard + adjustable upper control arms. I have a one-piece QA1 carbon drive shaft. Now I have to adjust the angle of the drive shaft. Is the method in the picture ok? I have searched the web but many answers are not correct

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019
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Yes I think that is basically correct but not positive on the details.


My understanding is that you are trying to get the angles on each end of the driveshaft to be equal and opposite under load, so the changes in rotation going through the joints cancel each other out so there is no pulsing or vibration. The "X" angle that they talk about when doing the measurement at rest, is to compensate for the amount that the rear axle and differential rotate when under load; that's why that "X" angle is bigger with soft bushings (rubber) and less with a hard bushing or bearing.


If you call the people who made the driveshaft, they probably have more specifics on how to set up that driveshaft.


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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019 Thread Starter
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patricemustang

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Yes I think that is basically correct but not positive on the details.


My understanding is that you are trying to get the angles on each end of the driveshaft to be equal and opposite under load, so the changes in rotation going through the joints cancel each other out so there is no pulsing or vibration. The "X" angle that they talk about when doing the measurement at rest, is to compensate for the amount that the rear axle and differential rotate when under load; that's why that "X" angle is bigger with soft bushings (rubber) and less with a hard bushing or bearing.


If you call the people who made the driveshaft, they probably have more specifics on how to set up that driveshaft.
Thank you , yes I have contacted the manufacturer QA1 and I am waiting for a response but I'm still trying to figure out how to do it because I've read a lot and not everyone says the same thing! Some say that if there is - 2 on the transmission then the differential must be increased to + 2 ! nobody says the same thing and it's complicated
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019
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. . . Some say that if there is - 2 on the transmission then the differential must be increased to + 2 ! nobody says the same thing and it's complicated

I think that is basically correct -- if the transmission output shaft is pointing down 2 degrees, you want the differential input shaft pointing up 2 degrees, when it is under load . . . the real trick is guessing how much it will move when it is under load so that you can set it correctly at rest (no load)

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019 Thread Starter
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I just want to be sure that the method is the right one - align the transmission with the differential then remove 2 from the differential.....
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019
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patricemustang,

Here's a handy YT video that explains setting the pinion angle:


BMR also has a good video on the subject.

HTH,

Chris
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2012 GT 6MT - RTR #59; performance white / charcoal interior
3.73's, AED tune, MGW Race Spec shifter, Airaid MFT, BMR rear LCAs & relo brackets, Panhard rod & brace, FRPP swaybars, MRT a/c H-pipe, LP OTAs, FR GT500 Touring axlebacks, FRPP diff cover, JLT PCV p/s catchcan

Last edited by nyuk98gt; 12-24-2019 at 12:14 PM. Reason: wacky line spacing
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019 Thread Starter
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patricemustang,

Here's a handy YT video that explains setting the pinion angle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvvqVbuvDc8

BMR also has a good video on the subject.

HTH,

Chris
the BMR video is quite clear but I don't understand why trans 2 on the right, pinion angle 1 on the left. I will have settled at 0 .... 3 it seems to me a lot !
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019
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Originally Posted by patricemustang View Post
the BMR video is quite clear but I don't understand why trans 2 on the right, pinion angle 1 on the left. I will have settled at 0 .... 3 it seems to me a lot !

I didn't watch the video, so not sure exactly how to interpret the angles from your post, but I think -- it is because of their estimate of how much the differential will rotate when it is under load. If the transmission shaft is pointing down 2 degrees then you want the differential input shaft pointing up two degrees when it is under load. Assuming "1 degree on the left" means pointing up 1 degree, then apparently they expect it to rotate another 1 degree when it is under load, giving the equal and opposite angles that you want.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019 Thread Starter
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on the transmission, the needle indicates 2 to the left of the 0 and they put 1 to the right of the 0 on the pinion .we say that we must align the transmission and the pinion then lower the nose of the pinion to the ground by 2 for street driving ...it looks like everyone has their own idea of ​​the ideal angle
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OK, two more thoughts then that's all I got, hopefully someone who has done this a few times will chime in next:

1) it's better to understand what you are trying to do, than talk about "needle on the right" or "needle on the left" -- you are trying to use the indicator to find out where the transmission shaft is pointing, and then make sure the differential input shaft is parallel to that -- transmission output shaft pointing down toward the rear, differential input shaft pointing up toward the front

2) the guesswork and inconsistency is because nobody knows exactly how much the axle/differential will rotate under load . . . to get it "just right" you might have to experiment a bit; meaning set it roughly and then drive the car and then tweak it until most of the vibrations are gone . . . I have a one piece aluminum driveshaft right now and I have a little "pulsing" under some conditions, it was set by a driveline shop using these "rules of thumb" but I think the only way I will get rid of all the pulsing is by trial and error . . . even then it probably will never be perfect under all conditions because the axle/differential rotates different amounts depending on how much load is on it

Oops, almost forgot, one more thing:
3) all of this is important for driveshafts that have U-Joints, not CV (constant velocity) joints . . . if your driveshaft has CV joints then it's still a good idea to set the pinion angle "correctly" (or fairly close) but it is not critical because the CV joints take care of the "phasing" issues
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019 Thread Starter
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For now I have vibrations from 70 mph. the seal is a CV seal (this is the QA1 carbon drive shaft). I'm going to redo a setting on Monday and I'll say what I did and if it's better
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patricemustang,

So, it looks like your pinion angle is now -1 degree (-2 + 1 = -1). Once the pinion angle is set the other trick is to re-clock the driveshaft at the pinion.

First, re-clock the driveshaft by 180 degrees and see if the vibration disappears. If 180 degrees does not help then re-clock by 90 degrees (270 degrees from the first orientation) and go for a test drive. If the second re-clock does not work then re-clock by 180 degrees (90 degrees from teh original orientation) and go for another test drive. If all four possible orientations do not cure the vibration and the pinion angle is -2 degrees then it is time to ask QA1 to take a look at the shaft. (This is not a snark at QA1, just saying what others have done when tracking down drivetrain vibration issues.).

HTH,

Chris

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-27-2019 Thread Starter
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Chris , thank you
For re-clock the driveshaft , I just need to remove the pinion shaft or also remove the aluminum CV seal adapter???
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patricemustang View Post
Chris , thank you
For re-clock the driveshaft , I just need to remove the pinion shaft or also remove the aluminum CV seal adapter???
patricemustang,

Easy-peasy: only the bolts that hold the yoke to the pinion - the adapter stays in place.

I will poke around the forums to find a thread about clocking driveshafts (oddly, it is not all that uncommon).

I hope the re-clocking works and I hope it works on the first clocking rather than the second or third, lol.

Chris

2012 GT 6MT - RTR #59; performance white / charcoal interior
3.73's, AED tune, MGW Race Spec shifter, Airaid MFT, BMR rear LCAs & relo brackets, Panhard rod & brace, FRPP swaybars, MRT a/c H-pipe, LP OTAs, FR GT500 Touring axlebacks, FRPP diff cover, JLT PCV p/s catchcan
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019 Thread Starter
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Thank you Chris !!!
I will test with several degrees! but note that on the BMR video, the transmission is -2 (2 to the left of zero) BMR recommends for a polyurethane ring a difference of 2 (1 degree for the spherical and 3 for the OEM) So I have poly -2 + 2 = 0 degrees. I do not know yet how much my transmission costs because the mechanic did not know how to do it and on Monday I will do it with him :-)
thank you all for your advice, i will tell you if it is better for vibrations

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