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2011 GT @ 28,000 Miles Maintenance?

1K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  yellow06 
#1 ·
With spring “kinda” around the corner, wondering what should be done for this vehicle to last for another 10 years. Plan on new brakes/pads/brake fluid flush so far. Coolant? So many comments on yea/nay for this 🤔. Other than that, not really sure... Thanks in advance 😊👍....
 
#2 ·
If the brake pads are still good there is no need to replace them. Brake fluid flush, I don't do it. If the antifreeze is still clean looking and tests good with a tester, probably no need to change it either. I would inspect the shocks for leaks and your tire manufacturing date. 10 years is my limit on tires no matter what their condition.
 
#3 ·
When I purchased ONX she had 8,500 miles on her Fast forward 10 yrs 134K miles

She has had A new coil,shocks, plugs/wires 3 sets of tires and still going strong!!
 
#4 ·
Do regular oil changes and don't go by the Oil Monitor. When I had my '87 I changed the oil every 3,000 miles. I sold it after thirteen years and it still ran great.

Pete
 
#5 ·
Yeah, for that mileage it shouldn’t need much. Maybe an oil change? I always use full synthetic and change every 5,000 or so. What tires are you running? If you do not have performance summer tires they make a huge difference. I see you’re in the south west so maybe you run summer tires all year? I have all seasons for winter.
 
#6 ·
Basically, all I have done is oil changes once a year. Depending on who you listen to, coolant and tranny fluid changes are necessary.....?..
 
#7 ·
… Depending on who you listen to, coolant and tranny fluid changes are necessary.....?..
Yup, depends who you listen too. My opinion is from the experience I've gained in almost 50 years of building, working on, and driving cars. Again, just my opinion. What you need to research and understand is what is or who is benefitting from some of the recommended maintenance. Is it the vehicle or the shop?

Oh, I forgot to add air filter, if you have not changed it, now is a good time.
 
#8 ·
Does it still have the original battery? If so, I would look into changing that.
 
#10 ·
If i wanted to make sure I did "everything" I would probably go through all of the fluids, even though it isn't really "necessary" -- including coolant, transmission, differential .... but wouldn't stress if I didn't get to it!

I use full synthetic oil and change it (and filter) per the maintenance minder, which seems to work out to every 5,000 miles or every six months, whichever comes first .... which seems to be plenty.

Fuel filter is about due -- pretty sure 30K is recommended change interval (talking about the one in the fuel line under the car)

Also cabin air filter; those are easy to forget about
 
#11 ·
Fluids, tires, and air filter. Won't hurt to do the cabin air filter while your at it. If original fluids I would replace simply due to age. I am not 100% sure on this, but I have been told the coolant after so long actually becomes corrosive and as well the brake fluid absorbs water over time and therefore is more likely to boil under heavy use situations. Again that info needs to be fact checked, but both is what I have been told by multiple mechanics some close friends and others working at Ford so I take it to have some truth somewhere.
 
#12 ·
Well I have not seen anyone mention the gas/fuel filter. I like to change those every 2 years at a minimum regardless of mileage. As far as 'anti-freeze', remember that it is more than just a protection from freezing, it is designed to inhibit corrosion. They have used a few different technologies over the years, but I think at 9 years, you have exceeded the lifetime of whichever type you have. I have had friends and neighbors with cars that look like new, but were 7-10 years old, and they wind up with a leaking heater core in the dash. When it is removed you see that it is corroded on the inside. The core is relatively cheap, but taking it out on most vehicles is a nightmare (expensive). I would consider flush and fill for the coolant. The brake fluid also absorbs moisture constantly (it is designed that way) and its boiling point goes down with moisture content. Depending on how you drive that may never matter, but I have also had vehicles that have had brake lines rust out which may have been delayed if the brake fluid had been flushed. Flushing brake fluid is (or was) never promoted in the US but I believe is considered part of normal maintenance in some foreign countries. It is also generally a low risk, low cost procedure. (do not use any brake fluid from containers that are already open, as they have already started to absorb moisture and may be no better than what you are replacing. Some would say not to even use brake fluid stored in plastic containers that are over a year or two old) If you can replace the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, change that too.



You mentioned brake pads, someone above said to leave them alone if they are good, I agree that you should not change them just because they are old. If they are not worn out, leave them be, but do check them. On that note, I do not know if your car goes through any annual safety inspection, or if you do at least an annual inspection. You should at a minimum give the car a good look over once or twice a year and probably more. Pull all the tires and look for leaks and any kind of unusual wear and deal with it before something actually fails. You should pay attention to any rubber wear points (bushings) in the suspension as they may fail with age, but if they look ok, leave them alone.



I think you have an auto trans, but I have not looked into the design for your year. My long term experience with cars made in the 70's-2000 would suggest that the fluid should probably be left alone. I do not even know if you have a dipstick on that vehicle, but if you do, I would just look at the fluid or have someone with experience look at it. You do not have much mileage and unless there was something unusual about the model of transmission in your car, I would not worry about it.


There can be a huge difference in price for items like filters if you are shopping at local auto parts stores compared to some online sources. I think I was charged close to $30 for something exactly the same that I could buy online for $5-10, you just have to be willing to wait for delivery. Just something to consider.


Also remember to check that you have had all recalls (airbags, etc) performed.
 
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