KW V3 coilovers w/ Steeda mounts and UMI panhard bar installed - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Originally Posted by GoT midlife CS View Post
My front camber is -1.1 on the left and -1.0 on the right. I think something like -.7 to -1.5 is best. As far as adjustability, I have the top bolt of the coilovers centered in the steeda mounts with the fine camber adjustment done using the lower bolts as one would with a stock set-up. My money says that if you plan to keep the KW's at the max ride height setting, you will be fine with a set of GT500 mounts and using the stock camber adjustment with the lower bolts. (save the money on the steeda mounts.....if you can't get it to align to spec, then consider getting the steeda mounts)

As far as the rear goes, I have the steeda chrome moly LCA's, which are not adjustable, mounted in the factory location. I have a JPC UCA, which probably is not the quietest on the market for NVH, but it's not bad IMHO with a pinion angle of -2 degrees (I think). I have a UMI adjustable panhard to center the rear. As far as NVH, of everything bolted on, the greatest increase in noise came from the KW's themselves. Again it is not bad, but just something you should be aware of.
Thanks for the input. The AM/Eibach lower camber bolts supposedly give +/- 1.75 degrees, so maybe they will be just right and the need for the camber plates won't be there.... Will re-assess this once all the parts come in. Thanks again for the input. $25 is cheap for camber bolts. On one of my other rides, the camber bolts only gave back +/- 0.5, and the bolts were really long.. Perhaps these 14mm bolts are better placed to give more adjustment range.

Eibach Pro-Alignment Camber Adjustment Bolts (05-12 All)

  • 14mm adjustable camber bolts
  • +/-1.75 degrees of adjustment
  • Perfect for lowered Mustangs
  • Fits 2005-2012 Mustang


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On the last set of KW v3 coilovers that I owned, the plastic purple adjustment rings cracked on the two front coilovers after 6 months. To be fair, I was racing the car twice a month at Hallett. Good luck to you! I'll never buy them again.


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Midlife, in your parts list, I didn't see any listing for LCA relocation brackets... or I missed it. Aside from camber issues after lowering, what about the need for lower control arm relocation brackets? This was posted on Strano Performance under most of their LCA relocation bracket links:

Strano:

Lowered Vehicles: When lowering your Mustang you change the lower control arm angle causing the rear mounting point of the control arm to sit higher than the front mounting point. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss. Lower control arm relocation brackets allow you to correct this angle and gain back much needed traction. Relocation brackets are designed to correct instant center, eliminate wheel hop and increase traction. Relocation brackets installed will also help 60-foot times, lower ETís and increase track consistency--a must for all lowered vehicles!

Their are several types to choose from, some with 2 holes for adjustment and BMR's with 3 holes for adjustment... both weld-in and bolt-in. Did you or will you be doing this as well? If so, which type of relocation bracket did you go with?

Strano bolt in (2 hole): Strano Performance Parts - Part Details

AM, BMR bolt-in (3 hole) : BMR Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Hammertone Finish (05-12 All) CAB005H - Free Shipping!
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OK, so I think I found the answer to my own question. Good links below regarding lowering and LCAs. First one is totally awesome, with a cross link to a posting on this forum related to the same.

BEST: cherod.com/mustang - LCAs

CROSS REFERENCE from this forum: https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...d-vehicle.html

Midlife, now that you are lowered, what is the angle of your front LCA bushing center in relation to the rear?

Note this from post #8 from cshiznitzi:

I believe if you lower the car moderately ~1.5" you could use a stock length UCA if you replace the controls arms with stiffer bushings. The pinion angle would come closer to zero than stock but the control arm bushings will have less deflection.

Also, these recent notes:

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...rols-arms.html

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ls-arms-2.html (See Sharad's input for a summary)
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Note from Stano regarding same

Strano Performance Parts - Part Details

Lowered Vehicles: When lowering your Mustang you change the lower control arm angle causing the rear mounting point of the control arm to sit higher than the front mounting point. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss. Lower control arm relocation brackets allow you to correct this angle and gain back much needed traction. Relocation brackets are designed to correct instant center, eliminate wheel hop and increase traction. Relocation brackets installed will also help 60-foot times, lower ETís and increase track consistency--a must for all lowered vehicles!



Non-Lowered Vehicles: Product installed on a stock height vehicle will also see a great increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the lower control arm, allowing more force to be placed on the rear tires. Relocation brackets have two settings to allow the lower control arm to be lowered either 2" or 3", depending on your preference. Settings are placed in a correct pattern that will allow use of all OEM control arms or any aftermarket control arm (brackets do not require a longer control arm.) Brackets installed on a non-lowered Mustang can provide a .10 or better 60-foot reduction and an increase in track consistency.
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012 Thread Starter
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Hey Cuda, I have never had any issue with wheel hop or traction, so I didn't get the relocation brackets.

2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
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Some more good KW-V3 tech info and installlation notes plus pictures from 5.0 Magazine

KW Suspension Coilover Kit - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoT midlife CS View Post
There are two spacers in the KW kit that are positioned on either side of the factory mounts, but they are not needed with the Steeda mounts.

I recently purchased the KW V3's for my 2013 V6.

I was told that the S197's did not have the capability to adjust caster and camber so I purchased the J&M CC Plates. Looks like the Steeda adjusted Camber but not Caster, did you have any issues with that?

How did you conclude that the spacers (bushes) included with the KW Kit were not needed? I am going back and forth with tech about this with no luck.

Attached is my mock up as per their instructions, but that spacer up top doesn't look right to me. Do you think the spacers are not required?
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