Time to bleed clutch on 12' GT - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Thanks, OAC_sparky (and grimmace), I stand corrected! and to the OP it appears that the dealer could have bled the clutch as per the service Manuel.


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wondering what is the build date on your car.. hint is is in the drivers side door jamb.

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Thanks, OAC_sparky (and grimmace), I stand corrected!
No problem. We have all sorts of "little tricks" when assembling vehicles that would surprise you.

For 99.5% of you, the first time you crack open a bleeder screw on your brake calipers (assuming you do your brakes yourselves), it will be the first time that bleeder has been turned since it rolled off the assembly line at the brake caliper factory. We don't bleed them on the assembly line, the system is filled like I described above.

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Putting system under vacuum doesn't actually suck air out. In reality you lowering pressure to change boiling point to pull vapor out. Just like pressure cap on cooling system raises boiling point. Anti-freeze doesn't raise boiling point pressure cap does
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Putting system under vacuum doesn't actually suck air out. In reality you lowering pressure to change boiling point to pull vapor out. Just like pressure cap on cooling system raises boiling point. Anti-freeze doesn't raise boiling point pressure cap does
True, however the end result is that air previously in the system is gone after a vacuum bleed.

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You can bleed the brakes/clutch via the reservoir the same way you bleed a cooling system after a flush. When you apply a vacuum to the reservoir, trapped air gets sucked out the system(albeit slowly) and is actually the most thorough method for removing air. Because there are no collapsible rubber hoses and because the system is sealed on both ends, there is no flow of fluid during the process. What happens when a vacuum is applied is the air gets dissolved in the fluid then evaporates at the top of the reservoir. The same principle applies to the A/C system during a evac/recharge except the Freon is a gas at normal room temperature and pressure.
post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012 Thread Starter
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I didnt have to pay anything for the work performed. Just the rental which was $75. The weird thing is when I asked for the receipt he said he didnt have one and would send it to me. The clutch felt the same to me but honestly I was just glad to have my baby back. Its been really wet for the past couple weeks and I havent really been able to wring it out so Idk if its still sticking. My build date is JAN12.

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Quote:
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True, however the end result is that air previously in the system is gone after a vacuum bleed.

.............................
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Now what really poeple can't wrap there brain around making water vapor off at room temp. Put water in a jar then put it under vacuum
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I just put a braided clutch line on and I had to use a vacuum pump to get a successful bleed. I pumped a couple hundred times and had zero pedal, so I rigged up a cap/plug for my reservoir and pulled a vacuum for a minute or so and had some pedal when I got back in and gave it a try. Did that procedure a few times and all is well now.

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"I was having the 1-2 hard shift issues and my clutch pedal stuck on a couple of high rpm shifts." There is a TSB regarding this stay out prob....it's caused by high centrifugal forces,once the rationale mass goes back down and centrifugal forces go back to normal, the pedal comes back up.....Ford recommends a stronger clutch spring unless I am forgetting something....Google this and it will give you all the info you need!

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