Ok, so Ive been posting several different colors of Coil Covers I've been painting. I am still available to paint covers for anyone that does not have the tools or time to paint these on their own, but I thought I would post on "my" steps for painting. Keep in mind that I use professional grade airbrush, sprayers, clear, and paint (in most cases), but the steps are the same. You can also apply these steps to other plastic engine parts (radiator/engine covers, fuse box cover, etc.) At the end are some pictures of the finished product (sorry, but I dont have photos of the process). The steps start out assuming you have stock covers in perfect condition.
1. Using a course Scotch pad, wipe over the entire surface
2. Wipe surface with mineral spirits or 90% alcohol
3. Using Adhesion promoter, follow directions on can, 3 coats
4. For light colors, use an AUTO type primer, then sand with 400-600 according to the primer directions. For darker colors, can skip to step 5.
5. Apply paint..at least two light coats before applying medium coat
If you want a different color lettering and bars, follow steps 6-10, otherwise skip to Step 11.
6 Apply clear coat on area around 2 bars and around letters. You may do this after initial paint has dried to the touch. This will protect overspray while painting the letters.
7. Let Dry overnight.
8. Tape off area around bars and large areas around letters (No need to tape off every millimeter of the area)
9. Using an airbrush, paint the bars, then remove tape, wiping off overspray with REDUCER OR Airbrush Thinner...NOT PAINT or LACQUER THINNER.
The clear you have already sprayed around this area will protect paint underneath from being removed with thinner.
10. Paint 3-4 letters at a time, then quickly remove tape and wipe overspray. Do this until all the letters are painted. By now all the painting should be done.
11. You are now ready for clear coat. Lightly scuff painted surface with a fine Scotch pad.
12. Wipe with tack cloth (I use compressed air)...There should be NO dust on the item before clear coating.
13. Spray clear coat..I use 2-part professional auto clear coat, 3 light layers and one medium-heavy layer, with 10-15 minutes flash time..You need to follow recommendation on the clear product you use.
14. Let dry over night.
15. Now you are ready for Wet Sanding- If you are happy with clear coat finish, you may install and be on your way, but there is nothing like buffing out clear for the glass, mirror shine and to remove the orange peel look.
a. 1000 grit
b. 1500 grit
c. 2000 grit--all should be WET SANDING!
16. Buffing- If you know how to buff with rubbing compound and polishing compound, you may do so. I use Adam's 3-Stage compounds with Porter Cable 7424 XP. It is very difficult to achieve a mirror-shine doing this by hand.
a. Green Compound-This brings out a shine immediately
b. Orange Compound
c. White Compound -polishing stage
17. I apply Adam's Sealant as a final stage, since it is not recommended to apply was so soon after clear.
These are MY steps and can be varied if you have painting skills. Here are some pics of covers so far:
Triple Blaze Yellow (NQ) Grabber Blue (CI) Race Red (PQ) High Performance White (HP) Black (generic) Silver Metallic (Spray Can) Candy Apple (Spray Can)
2011 GT/CS Auto-Security Package, HID, Remote Start.
STEEDA: LCA/Upper 3rd Link, Adj Rear Sway bar, Spyder 20" Rims 11"/9.5", Hood Struts.
VMP S/C w/82mm Pulley, JLT CF Intake, Vortech Max Flow BAP, AFCO Dual Fan Heat Exchanger, FMS 3.31 Gears, Kooks 1-7/8 LTs, Kooks Off Road H-Pipe, GT500 AB's, Baer Big Brake Kit with 14" Rotors, Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Scan Gauge w/Speed of Sound A-Pillar.
Roush Front Bumper, Saleen Front Grille, Custom Radiator Cover/Coil Covers