what size rubber stop for sound tube delete? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012 Thread Starter
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what size rubber stop for sound tube delete?

i bought a 1 3/4 and it was way too big. what is the correct size rubber stop/plug for the intake side? thanks!


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012
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First, I Assume That you Are Asking About The Stock Cold Air Tube??.......If Yes Then Why Do You Want To Remove The Sound Tube?.....If You Do,You Should Measure The Outside Diameter, (It Might Be In Milimeters For Jeez Sakes?) And Then Go To The Plumbing Store. Or Home Depot, And Get One Of The Rubber Caps With The Worm Clamp.......I Would Never Try To Install A Plug That Goes Inside The Elbow (Such As The Kind With The Wing-Nut In The Middle That Expands Outward) As It Could Get Sucked Right Up Against You Throttle Blade Causing Damage..............Sean

post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Reilly View Post
Why Do You Want To Remove The Sound Tube?....
Because they sound like crap.

Quote:
I Would Never Try To Install A Plug That Goes Inside The Elbow (Such As The Kind With The Wing-Nut In The Middle That Expands Outward) As It Could Get Sucked Right Up Against You Throttle Blade Causing Damage..............Sean
Very unlikely because those style plugs have a taper to them. For added saftey you can also drill a small hole from the side through the tube and put a "set screw" in.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012
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When I was looking for the firewall plug I came acrossed this site and for 11 bucks decide to just buy this...
2011-2013 Mustang Sound Tube Delete Kit

Last edited by Sundaze; 12-30-2012 at 10:10 AM. Reason: spelling sucks
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
Because they sound like crap.



Very unlikely because those style plugs have a taper to them. For added saftey you can also drill a small hole from the side through the tube and put a "set screw" in.
Yea whatever, he should Just do it the right way, and find the size cap that fits over the hole.......This way no drilling (And who cares if it " highly unlikely that it will get sucked in") I know that they are tapered, but with the major temp. differences between a cold under hood condition, and knocking the snot out of it in 90 degree weather.....Who needs to take the chance with expansion and contraction.........As you know these stock elbows are rubbery as hell compared to the aftermarket elbows! Why take the chance
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012
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I used a 1.5" plastic plug. It is Hillman part number 884314, found in the hardware section at Lowes. Had to trim it just a little for a very snug fit inside the tube. I put some clear silicone adhesive on it for added insurance.

For the firewall side, I used Ford part number W651016S300, which is about 55 cents at your local Ford dealer.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012
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There is a thread about deleting the sound tube. It has a ford part # for just the right firewall plug. That's how I did mine. Looks like nothing was ever there.
I'll see if I can find it.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012
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Ford part # W651016S300, it is a 30mm rubber plug. This is the exact same thing Ford uses to plug holes that are not being used.
Looks like the factory put it there.

I got mine from Tousley Ford online, cost 55 cent,

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012 Thread Starter
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got it done. there is no possible way that the plug could get sucked in lol. it's tapered heavily.

2012 Black/black GT Premium, Brembo, HID, 3.73 - Borla LT's, Borla x-pipe, Borla touring cat back, Airraid CAI, Bama 93R tune, Steeda LCA/UCA, MM CC plates, panhard and bracket, front/rear swaybars, billet front/rear swaybar brackets/links, chassis brace, Bump steer kit, Tri-Ax shifter/bracket,Eibach Multi-Pro R2 CO's, FRPP diff cover, Weds Wheels 19x10, 275/40/19 Bridgestone Pole Position, GT500 rear spoiler, CDC chin spoiler. Full stereo system.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjracing View Post
got it done. there is no possible way that the plug could get sucked in lol. it's tapered heavily.
You got that right. If I remember correctly, I just trimmed the leading part of the plug a little bit, put a little sealant on it, and tapped it home with a soft-blow hammer. If I ever find a need to take mine out, one or more power tools will be involved. :hihi:

With the off-road H and GT-500s, I have plenty of sound coming from places that sound should come from...

2011 Mustang GT base, MT, 3.31 gears, E85 tuned, 47lb injectors, JBA stainless off-road h-pipe, GT500 axle-back, BMR springs, Roush UCA and billet LCA, CHE LCA relocation brackets, Strange 10-way struts/shocks, SPC aluminum adjustable panhard bar, BMR driveshaft loops, Barton shifter and bracket, JHR clutch line
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