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Sway bar questions

2K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  RoboStang 
#1 ·
My 2012 GT Brembo Premium has the following for existing suspension work:

Roush extreme lowering springs
Saleen N2 struts and shocks
Whiteline Adj. PHB and brace
Whiteline LCA's and relo brackets
GT500 Strut mounts

So next, I am thinking sway bars. I wanted to Whitelines, but I hear they are considerably heavier than the Eibach kit. I'd like adjustable since there doesn't seem to be a good reason not to.

So, leaning towards the Eibach kit with adjust-ability front and rear. I was looking for a good install video ... found one for a 2008 - similar procedure? I am hoping to do this myself in the garage.

If anyone has any thoughts, guidelines, links to a good install video, etc. I'd appreciate it. I also explored simply getting new bushings for the stockers ... if that even a worthwhile option?

Thanks, all.
 
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#3 ·
As far as shopping goes I'll leave that up to you.

For the adjustments, moving the swaybar attachment out to the outer holes makes them softer. Moving the attachment towards the inner hole makes them stiffer. A stiffer rear swaybar will oversteer during steady cornering. A stiffer front swaybar will understeer.

Note these are relative to where they are now, if your rear swaybar is too soft now moving to a stiffer bar will bring the balance back to neutral. You can also increase turn-in sharpness with a stiffer front bar(too stiff will understeer during steady cornering). For quicker rotation around a tight corner(such as Auto-x) you can make the rear bar stiffer.
 
#5 ·
Look into the Strano bars, cheaper than others but just as good
 
#9 ·
This is my take on the whole no maintenance bushings part. If you are going through the trouble of changing sway bars then you should be willing to check them periodically. I check all my suspension parts every 3 months to make sure all is good. Takes maybe 30 min to check torques and grease. If you just want to install and forget then maybe you should just leave it as stock. I'm being blunt so don't take it as bashing. Just telling you how I see it
 
#11 ·
I'd rather have a bushing that can't squeak at all, then have to maintain 1 just so it doesn't squeak. And if you drive in winter with snow ice and salt splashing up on your greased urethane bushings, guess what you'll have to increase your maintenance even more so to keep em from squeaking! It's a no brainer for me!
 
#17 ·
There is no guarantee a poly bushing from any company will be maintenance free.

Whiteline bushings are not urethane , they are synthetic elastomer, a material as strong as urethane but with the flexable properties of rubber yet it's not rubber. You get the best of both worlds with no grease maintenance and no nvh, nvh is commonly associated with urethane Bushings.
 
#20 ·
It should move easily. The bar is held only by rubber bushings after you remove the end links.
 
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