Upgrading motor mounts - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013 Thread Starter
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Upgrading motor mounts

What are the pros and cons of upgrading motor mounts ? Im thinking the time to do this would be when I install long tube headers. For anyone who has changed them, was it worth it ? And what type / make did you install ?


2011 GT. Grabber Blue. Procharged. 3:73 manual.Billit LCA's. Corsa Extremes. GT 500 wheels. Racemaster DR's. T-56 Tremec. Dynotech DS . Centerforce DF. American Racing headers/high flow cats 560 rwhp.Donny Walsh tuned

2012 Pony Package. Race Red.3:31 automatic.BBK longtubes and catted X.FRPP Sport axlebacks. BBK throttle body. Dynotech DS. Brembo wheels and tires. Strut tower brace. Airraid CAI. Bama tuned.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013
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I installed JHR in my buddies V6...it was a bit of a pain but I found it improved my shifting a lot (yeah, I was surprised) but,a good bit more NVH. My hints are make sure to disconnect the battery and on the V6 (prob V8) I couldn't jack the motor high enough to clear the OEM mount studs and took off the aluminum brackets that go between the motor and mounts instead. Next time I would cut the OEM mounting studs which would make the job alot simplier. This really was one of the better mods for me.


2012 V6 traded in for a 2017 VW GTI.
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013
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A must have for evrery performance car! Makes your feel the rumble of the engine car feels more solid! And it's mostly because factory hydros are just to soft!

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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013
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Originally Posted by Kona stang10 View Post
A must have for evrery performance car! Makes your feel the rumble of the engine car feels more solid! And it's mostly because factory hydros are just to soft!
This^^^^^^, and it makes the car shift sooooooo much better. Every single car in our “test fleet” has aftermarket mounts. My 2012 still has the stock ones. It feels like something is wrong with it is so squishy.

I like the Prothane ones a lot. I’ve had trouble with some of the other ones out there.

Waiting on 2019 GT500

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2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013
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I installed the Steeda adjustable motor mounts in my '13 while I had the k-member out during the long tube installation. I also installed Prothane bushings in the front control arms. The install was very easy to do. There is no NVH either.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-18-2013
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Quote:
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I installed the Steeda adjustable motor mounts in my '13 while I had the k-member out during the long tube installation. I also installed Prothane bushings in the front control arms. The install was very easy to do. There is no NVH either.
to anyone
I always wondered about this... with the factory being a stud from the motor mount, how much harder is it with the motor mount shown in the picture NoSlo5oH posted to get the bolt started and without crossing the threads.


Now an off beat question to NoSlo5oH, why didn't you change your K frame when you had it out. I know 600 bucks for 18 or so pounds is a little expensive.

I don't speak often but when I do, I don't have clue what I am talking about. I just repeat things that I once heard and do not repeat them correctly... My doctor told me it was an ID 10 T problem and it was incurable.
So when I reply to a post or add to a thread I just find the words elsewhere and copy and paste.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-18-2013
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Quote:
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to anyone
I always wondered about this... with the factory being a stud from the motor mount, how much harder is it with the motor mount shown in the picture NoSlo5oH posted to get the bolt started and without crossing the threads.

It's easy. I've done at least 10 sets of the Prothane mounts and taken out/moved a whole bunch of motors with them. Getting the bolt in there is a piece of cake.

Waiting on 2019 GT500

2012 GT Vert Brembo - Stock-ish

2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

2007 GT-TSR/Stops/Turns/Custom Everything/3.4L Whipple Crusher/1000hp SOLD
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-18-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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It's easy. I've done at least 10 sets of the Prothane mounts and taken out/moved a whole bunch of motors with them. Getting the bolt in there is a piece of cake.
Speaking of these Prothane mounts. Are they available with aluminum housings as ma complete unit ? And what years fit the 11 ? I notice a lot of mounts advertised for 05-10 cars.
Where do you get them ?

2011 GT. Grabber Blue. Procharged. 3:73 manual.Billit LCA's. Corsa Extremes. GT 500 wheels. Racemaster DR's. T-56 Tremec. Dynotech DS . Centerforce DF. American Racing headers/high flow cats 560 rwhp.Donny Walsh tuned

2012 Pony Package. Race Red.3:31 automatic.BBK longtubes and catted X.FRPP Sport axlebacks. BBK throttle body. Dynotech DS. Brembo wheels and tires. Strut tower brace. Airraid CAI. Bama tuned.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-18-2013
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Quote:
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Speaking of these Prothane mounts. Are they available with aluminum housings as ma complete unit ? And what years fit the 11 ? I notice a lot of mounts advertised for 05-10 cars.
Where do you get them ?
The 2005-2010 mounts are the same as the 2011-2014 mounts.

Aluminum housings? What is a "housing"? You lost me there.

Waiting on 2019 GT500

2012 GT Vert Brembo - Stock-ish

2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

2007 GT-TSR/Stops/Turns/Custom Everything/3.4L Whipple Crusher/1000hp SOLD
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I am in the same boat as I will be installing my long tube headers in the near future. Do the Steeda mounts have the least NVH? Are there other mounts that have minimal NVH?

After installing that Whiteline Trans mount without modifying that bottom tab, I DO NOT want to experience that kind of NVH again...

2002 Mustang GT 5 speed: Mach 1 grille delete, K&N drop-in air filter, 75mm BBK throttle body, ported C&L plenum, UPR upper and lower control arms, KYB shocks/struts, McLeod Super Street Pro clutch kit, AM firewall adjuster, MM clutch quadrant, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Bassani catted x pipe, Flowmaster weld-in 40's, SCT 93 octane Bama tune
SOLD
for...
2013 Mustang GT 6 speed: GT Track Package, 301A Tech Package, JLT Catch Can, GT500 Axleback, Steeda Shifter Bushing
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I honestly donít feel any NVH issues with the Prothane mounts. Yeah, you are a little more connected. But there is no buzziness to them or anything.

If you switch out the stock squishy mounts for some urethane ones you will be more connected to the motor no matter what mounts you use. There is no such thing as a urethane mount that feels like the stock ones. Itís impossible.

Waiting on 2019 GT500

2012 GT Vert Brembo - Stock-ish

2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

2007 GT-TSR/Stops/Turns/Custom Everything/3.4L Whipple Crusher/1000hp SOLD
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John, just remember to get all the bolts started B4 you tighten any of them...this will give you wiggle if you need to help get the bolt started.

2012 V6 traded in for a 2017 VW GTI.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-18-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
The 2005-2010 mounts are the same as the 2011-2014 mounts.

Aluminum housings? What is a "housing"? You lost me there.
I guess what I mean is , do you replace the the entire motor mount ? Not just the factory rubber with urethane etc. I am asking if the entire mount is replaced and if its aluminum with Prothane bushings.

And where do you get them ?

2011 GT. Grabber Blue. Procharged. 3:73 manual.Billit LCA's. Corsa Extremes. GT 500 wheels. Racemaster DR's. T-56 Tremec. Dynotech DS . Centerforce DF. American Racing headers/high flow cats 560 rwhp.Donny Walsh tuned

2012 Pony Package. Race Red.3:31 automatic.BBK longtubes and catted X.FRPP Sport axlebacks. BBK throttle body. Dynotech DS. Brembo wheels and tires. Strut tower brace. Airraid CAI. Bama tuned.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRichard View Post
to anyone
I always wondered about this... with the factory being a stud from the motor mount, how much harder is it with the motor mount shown in the picture NoSlo5oH posted to get the bolt started and without crossing the threads.


Now an off beat question to NoSlo5oH, why didn't you change your K frame when you had it out. I know 600 bucks for 18 or so pounds is a little expensive.
1. It was super easy. There was absolutely no way the bolt would have gotten cross-threaded, as I finget tightened it first. I also used anti seize since the bolt was steel and the mount aluminum.

2. I didn't change the k-member because I didn't want to risk buying one and having to modify it to fit...just didn't know enough about who had the best product on the market.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randeez11 View Post
I guess what I mean is , do you replace the the entire motor mount ? Not just the factory rubber with urethane etc. I am asking if the entire mount is replaced and if its aluminum with Prothane bushings.

And where do you get them ?
The new mount consists of the bushing, hardware and mount itself. The bushings are polyurethane and they are sandwiched between aluminum, but the mount itself is steel. I purchased mine from Steeda.

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