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Guide to Help You Open Up / Rebuild Your MT82

45K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  ryanbay25 
#1 ·
A couple of months ago my car lost third gear. No grinding or any abnormal sounds. It just lost third. When you shifted into that gear, it was like being in neutral. My car is at 75k miles so warranty wasn't an option. I'd also just replaced the clutch about 6 months earlier so I knew how to pull the transmission out in a timely manner. I did not want to spend the $2500 for a brand new unit. My transmission had never really shifted that badly and a new one could be worse. I also didn't feel like rebuilding the entire thing. If aftermarket parts were available, I probably would have. Since I only had OEM parts to work with, I decided to just replaced the failed parts.


This is not a complete step by step guide, but more about tips on how to do it yourself. It will also give you an idea of what's involved and lets you get the tools you will need to do it.


I started by draining the fluid. This would give me an idea of how bad it was. The fluid came out fairly clean. This was a good sign that something wasn't still grinding itself to death. I did have to drive the car sans third for a week until I could replace the head on my Jeep.


Pulling the transmission is fairly straight forward. There are instructions on the online service manual. Basically you remove the driveshaft, shifter and bushing bracket, starter, move over passenger side exhaust with cat (remove two cat bolts, loosen sleeve at h-pipe), remove cross brace, take off clutch line, disconnect all the sensors and where the wires are supported, support trans, remove rear mount, remove all the transmission bolts, pull back transmission and drop. Easy. One thing you might have trouble with if you don't have a lift, is getting the car high enough to pull the transmission out. The front of the bellhousing is very tall. Even with my jack stands at full height, I couldn't get it out. I have to use my large jack and raise the front of my car all the way and pull it out.



Now the transmission dis-assembly instructions are missing on the online service manual. After the service tool list it ends. I went ahead and bought the Alldata subscription to make it easier. Well worth the $22 for the year. Great step by step.


Service tools you will need:


  • A large three jaw puller. I bought the $29.99 one you can get at Advanced Auto with a gift card. Not the greatest quality, but it worked. This is mainly for the rear output shaft flange. The even larger two jaw puller you absolutely need may work... I didn't have it at that point.
  • As mentioned above. A very large two jay puller with very long legs. I bought the one that Ford calls out in the dis-assembly procedure. The OTC version from Advance Auto online is $75. #OTC 1036. Not too bad for a special tool. This will be used for splitting the case.
  • Slide hammer. I bought the cheap harbor freight kit. This will be used to hammer out the five detent pins. There is a Ford attachment to go on these, but I was able to use one of the HF attachments with a worm clamp around it to drive them out.
  • Shop hydraulic press. You will need a heavy duty press to get the shafts apart. I bought the 20 ton Harbor Freight press. It worked great for what I needed it to do. You also will need to get a large bearing separator to use with the press. Also bought at HF.
  • 12mm allen socket. 1/2” drive preferred. Most sets only go up to 10mm and you can't get this at Lowes or HD. Again HF.
  • The Ford synchro driver. This is used for pressing things on the shaft. I did not have this tool and had to get creative with the arbor plates on my press, but it would have been way easier just to get this. You could also just get a steel tube with the correct ID instead.
  • Blue Medium loctite, Red permanent (262 or equiv) loctite, anaerobic gasket maker.
  • 3 qt. XT-11-xdc fluid and 1 bottle XL-18 additive. Might need the dealership to order the additive.
Things that might be good to have:


  • Air or heavy duty electric impact. I don't have air in my garage so I had to get the $50 HF electric 1/2” impact. I have a nice Dewalt cordless impact that can do ~130 ft/lbs, but it was not enough. For 50 bucks the HF one did the trick.
  • Heavy duty work top or table. I did my transmission rebuild on the garage floor. It would have been nice to have a proper work area.
  • Transmission jack. Unless you like doing crazy heavy chest presses, it helps to have a transmission jack. Especially for re-installation.
  • Seal driver set. You can use different large sockets for it doesn't hurt to have a proper seal driver kit. HF has a few cheap ones. I used the handle pressing a few things in place of the synchro driver tool.
First thing about taking the transmission apart is DON”T PANIC. You can do it. Just pay attention to the details in the manual. The transmission is actually quite simple. The best thing to do is stay
organized. I laid everything out in the order I pulled it off the transmission. It made it easier when going back together. You will obviously need to open it up first to figure out everything you need to replace. My repair was just 3rd gear and the synchro. I did not replace any of the bearings as my fluid was clean and I had no abnormal noises. You may need to replace more or less depending on your situation. If too much is trashed, you may just need a whole new transmission.


One thing that sucks about this transmission is the lack of aftermarket parts right now. I replaced everything with OEM parts. As of writing this, there are not any aftermarket parts. There are a couple companies that offer “performance rebuilds”, but they wouldn't tell me what they use or sell me the parts. I'm guessing they are just cryoing OEM parts. If any of your shifts are not smooth, now's the time to replace that synchro pack to cure that problem. None of mine felt bad so I only replaced the one on the failed gear. Expect about 100 bucks a gear and 50-60 bucks for each synchro pack. Since I had no leaks, I didn't bother replacing the input shaft and output shaft seals. You may want to do those.


Now for the fun. I recommending taking pics of things you might want to look at upon reassembly.


  • Caution. The transmission likes to try to roll over on its side. You can damage the output shaft speed sensor if you let it. I had to replace mine after I broke the connecter off.
  • Remove the throwout bearing.
  • You can remove the shift linkage. Two bolts. Push the transmission into 4th by moving the shift shaft forward into the transmission.
  • Next, below the input shaft is the counter shaft cover. You have to drill a hole in the center and use something to carefully pry it out. Don't scratch the bore it comes out of. Now use the impact and 12mm allen socket to remove the counter shaft bolt. It has permanent loc-tite so it took a few hits with the 230 ft/lbs impact to get it out. A nice air impact shouldn't have much trouble. This bolt has to come out before you can remove the counter shaft later.
  • Next is the rear output shaft bolt. This is a large bolt that needs a large socket. Like a 30mm or something close to that. This bolt is a little less tight since I could use my Dewalt impact. You can use the smaller 3 jaw puller to get the flange off the shaft. It's on pretty tight so I had to use the impact of the puller. This is not recommended by the puller instructions, but it worked fine. Just make sure the jaws are on a place where they won't slip off.
  • Next you can remove the three sensors off the transmission. Don't forget to pull out the little spring and piston from the skip shift solonoid.
  • Using the 12mm allen socket, remove the two rear shift fork pivot bolts. Now use the slide hammer to remove the four smaller detents.
  • Now you can remove all those transmission case bolts. Use the large two jaw puller to pull the case apart. Make sure you put it the jaws on two flat areas near where the case splits apart. The rear case should come off pretty easily. If you pull on the wrong spot, you can break a piece off the case off. After the case is off, you can use a punch to drive out the dowels.
  • You can remove the reverse shift fork and shaft. Next, you will have to use the slide hammer to drive out the large shaft detent on the case. Once that is out you can remove the shift shaft.

  • Now you have to remove 1st, reverse, and the reverse synchro with the two jaw puller. Make sure you put the jaws on first and pull all three off together.
  • Pull off the needle bearing and remove 1st gear synchro. The three little detents like to fly out so make sure you keep an eye on those while taking them out.
  • You can now remove the 1st/2nd shift fork and shaft.
  • You should be looking at the synchro hub. Since it is splined of the shaft, the manual wants you to index these so they go back the same way. I didn't, but it's not a bad idea.
  • Next take out the two large allen bolts and remove the shift interlock plate.
  • Now you can remove the three bolts that hold on the large aluminum plate.
  • Before you can press this apart, you need to remove the snap ring above the synchro hub. Once off, you use the two jaw puller to press it all off. You put the jaws under the aluminum plate.... but the jaws are barely not long enough. Now you can get another special Ford puller or you can do what I did. I drilled another set of holes at the top of the puller jaws. I split the difference between the end of the jaw and the top hole. Worked great. The jaw is fairly easy to drill through. It should all come off fairly painlessly.
  • Now you should be able to see down into the trans. There are two large roller bearings that have to come off both shafts. Split the race and pull them off.
  • Next, remove the remaining four 12mm allen shift rail pivot bolts on the outside of the case.
  • You can now remove the remaining shift forks and rails. You are now ready to remove the two shafts. Inspect all the plastic pieces for the shift rails. Replace as necessary.
  • You can use the Harbor Freight press to press down on the counter shaft and free both shafts from the case. It should not take much pressure. It is very important not to let the shafts fall on the floor when doing this. Have a 2nd set of hands would help.
  • If you need to get it apart further and remove the input shaft, you remove the snap ring on the IS and press it out.


With everything out, you should have a pretty good idea on what need to be replaced. Remember when ordering parts, you need to replace the counter shaft plug you drilled a hole in. The instructions for disassembling the shafts are available on the free online manual. This is mainly where the hydraulic press is needed. The gears are on the shaft are extremely tight. I actually heated up the gears with a little torch to help get them off. It helped. When putting the gears back on, I warmed them up in the oven to 200 degrees. Just something that will make it a little easier.


Re-assembly is the opposite of dis-assembly. Some tips:

-When you lock it into two gears to torque the counter shaft bolt, press the two shafts together to keep them from jumping teeth. There's enough movement in it without the aluminum plate to allow it to jump teeth before you reach the torque spec without pressing them together.

- When putting the shift fork pivot bolts back in, make sure the they are lined up in the hole before threading them in.
  • Another thing I found was once I had it almost all together. Everything felt really tight. I could barely spins the transmission when it was in 1sts/2nd/reverse. Also neutral didn't seem to let the input shaft spin freely. It wasn't until I installed the rear output flange that everything freed up. That's pretty much the last step. So don't worry until that's on.
  • The gasket maker for the case sets in about ten minutes so you have to get it together in that time. Also make sure both surfaces are clean.
  • I also found it easier to fill the transmission with fluid with it out of the car. It takes 2.7 qts. Plus the additive. Don't fill it to the fill hole. It just takes the 2.7 qts. of fluid. Obviously you can use the fluid of your choice, but I've found the XT-11 and XL-18 much better than my original 2010 fluid.
If you take your time and pay attention to the details, you will end up with a transmission as good as new for way less than buying a new one and have the dealership do the work. Plus you'll have a bunch of new tools and a better understanding of your transmission. This is also a good time to replace the throwout bearing and upgraded the clutch. I had just replaced the clutch with an Exedy 6 months earlier so I didn't mess with that. I did upgrade to the stainless clutch line. It's a ten minute swap.


Good luck and I can answer and questions you may have! Sorry for any spelling or grammar errors.
 
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#9 ·
Fortunately it doesn't seem to be a common failure...

Breaking in that manner was also pretty non-destructive in that it didn't cascade into something catastrophic.
 
#12 ·
Absolutely superb post ! Something I've never done but now believe I could do no problem.

Now if someone could post a similar thread on how to change the clutch plate /throw out bearing I think I'd be set !!
The instructions are on the online manual But..

The TO bearing is very easy once you have the transmission out. Literally two bolts and it's off. Not a bad idea to replace if you have the transmission out. Mine was only 3 months old so I didn't mess with it.

The clutch is fairly simple too. Remove the 8 or so bolts that attach the pressure plate to the flywheel. Remove the PP and clutch. Be careful, the assembly can weight 30 lbs. Now remove the 6 or so flywheel bolts. Impact works great here. You will have to get it resurfaced or replaced it with a new one. I decided to get the Exedy LW steel flywheel. Once you have the flywheel off. Mark the position of the crank trigger disc and pull it off. The hardest part for me was next. You'll likely need a slide hammer and a pilot bearing puller attachment to get the pilot bearing out.

Then you can tap the new one it. Make sure you're tapping on the outer race. Put the crank trigger wheel back on. Now put the new flywheel on. Make sure to clean the oil off the pressure plate and flywheel clutch surfaces with some brake clean. Apply the right threadlock and torque the flywheel. I can't remember if it is torqued in multiple steps, but go in a star pattern. Now insert the clutch alignment tool. Slip on the clutch disc. MAKE SURE IT IS FACING THE RIGHT WAY. Putting it on backwards can cause damage to the clutch. Also make sure you installed the new dowels into your new flywheel. I did this before putting it on the engine. Now you're ready to install the pressure place. Line it up on the dowels and get the bolts started. The manual will tell you if they require thread lock. I can't remember. Now once the bolts start drawing on the pressure plate, you'll only want to go like a 1/2 turn at a time on each bolt so you draw it on evenly. Once they are all snugged up you can torque in a start pattern. Once torque you can remove the alignment tool. That's pretty much it. Easy peasy.

You will have to get the crank relearn procedure done at a dealer or tuning tool or you'll get a check engine light eventually. Mine did it for free.

Here's a pic. You can see the pressure plate bolts and the dowels from the flywheel.

 
#15 ·
I don't know of anyone making different gear sets for the mt82. Might try giving Liberty a call. You can always change the rear gear to space them out a little more.
 
#16 ·
Doug,

Great info. I have two questions:

I.) When you say throw out bearing are you referring to the slave cylinder. I looked at the MT-82 schematic and it looks like the slave cylinder sets where there would usually be a throw out bearing

II.) can you provide a summary (or write-up if you have the time+desire) on the actual pulling of the tranny? Im wondering how you tackled the upper most tranny to engine bolts? Is it possible to lower the motor by partially dropping the K-member or did you just make creative use of extensions & u-joints?

Again, thanks for forging ahead and getting this information for us.
 
#17 ·
Doug,

Great info. I have two questions:

I.) When you say throw out bearing are you referring to the slave cylinder. I looked at the MT-82 schematic and it looks like the slave cylinder sets where there would usually be a throw out bearing

II.) can you provide a summary (or write-up if you have the time+desire) on the actual pulling of the tranny? Im wondering how you tackled the upper most tranny to engine bolts? Is it possible to lower the motor by partially dropping the K-member or did you just make creative use of extensions & u-joints?

Again, thanks for forging ahead and getting this information for us.

Yes the slave cylinder assembly and TOB are the same piece. The actual bearing is on the end.

I did do a quick little write up in the beginning about pulling the tranny. There really isn't much more to it. You do not have to drop the engine, I can squeeze my hands up there. YOu can also get to them from the top back by the firewall. Getting creative with swivels and extensions can help.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Not to sound argumentative, but why bother to rebuild the MT 82. Get a Tremec T56 , and be done with it. Sure it may cost a little more up front, but it shifts so much better than the MT 82. And anyone with a seriously modded car , will benefit substantially from the swap from an MT82 , to a Tremec T 56.
Again, no argument intended, just what I have experienced.

But if anyone is looking for an MT 82 with about 2500 unopened miles on it and lives near Detroit, I know where there is one. Its on my basement floor.
 
#19 ·
Great thread. Surprised its gotten so little replies.

Does anyone know the height of the MT-82? Im trying to plan a future clutch job and need to know how much clearance I need to be able to get the trans. out from under the car.
 
#24 ·
Isn't the MT82 a known horrific tranmission? I find it weird Ford uses it ONLY in the Ford GT\302, while Dodge\Chevy use the TR6060 in the Camaro SS\ZL1\Challenger R\T, SRT, And Hellcats\Vetts and Ford in the GT-500s....what the heck caused the change to the MT82? All I've heard is complaints though the TR6060 isn't without it's own problems.
 
#25 ·
Isn't the MT82 a known horrific transmission? I find it weird Ford uses it ONLY in the Ford GT\302, while Dodge\Chevy use the TR6060 in the Camaro SS\ZL1\Challenger R\T, SRT, And Hellcats\Vetts and Ford in the GT-500s....what the heck caused the change to the MT82? All I've heard is complaints though the TR6060 isn't without it's own problems.
This is just from my observations, but I can see Ford getting tired of dealing with Tremec.

The T-45 had a LOT of issues from 96-98, then when they updated it, it still had some strength issues with the new forks. That reverse gear setup was extremely problematic. Granted, this design was originally a Borg-Warner design, it was none the less Tremec that bought the product line from Borg Warner.

Next, the early TR3650 had serious quality issues with the forks and that pesky "notchy" 1-2 shift when cold. Ford spent mega-bucks installing update kits replacing lots of potentially damaged parts. The parts in these kits alone were nearly 1,000.00.

The 2005-2010- versions were better, but still, the third and fourth gear synchro rings don't last as long as one would expect even when everything is right.

To add insult to injury, it seems that Tremec could care less if an adequate supply of replacement parts are available to keep the cars on the road. Example: Ask a Ford dealer to get you a 3-4 fork for your 2004 TR3650... See how long it takes them to stop laughing at you! I doubt they will ever make any more of those forks. They constantly run out of gears and synchro rings and it often takes more than a month to get them back on the shelves.

If I were Ford, I would think about choosing another company to make my transmissions too!

Getrag had a good reputation on their previous products, but the cars weren't "beat on" like the Mustangs are. They have a whole set of issues all their own. I will bet that you can get the parts though...

I don't like the fact that the MT82 is a 6-speed, but it has only one gear that is an actual overdrive gear. Performance driving needs that 0.80 fifth gear to stay in the power band at high speeds and something around 0.50 is good for cruising.

This is where the Tremec 6060 has the advantage. People are pulling their Getrags and installing the Magnum XL like crazy.

Tremec seems to have gotten their act together with the TR6060 and Magnum series. These are still based in general on the TR3650 design, but they went from single and double friction sychros in the TR3650 to double and triple friction synchros in the TR6060 and Magnum. I wish we could now retrofit that new synchro design to the original TR3650. They would be sitting pretty sweet by now!
 
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