Too Much Inner Tire Where - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014 Thread Starter
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Too Much Inner Tire Wear

My 2001 Gt has not been good on front tires every since I drove it home June 8th 2011. The original Pirellis wore on the inside and didn't even make it to 20,000 miles. I thought their was either a camber issue or possibly a toe issue. I went and had it aligned and put new rubber on it. That set of tires made it almost 30,000 miles before a piece of metal took out a side wall. Those tires seems to where less on the inside so I was thinking my issues were solved. The replacement tires for that set are the tires on the car now.They haven't been on the car a year, and the fronts are wearing pretty badly on the inside edge once again. I will have to replace the fronts pretty soon, because of the fast inner wear, but I need to figure out how to rectify this because as you know, tires are not cheap. I do drive more aggressively than most people, so I am thinking I need a good set of specs to align by, or a guy that can actually use his brain and not just the computer when aligning. Does anyone have a set of specs they use for camber and toe that will take into account aggressive cornering? I am fed up with the alignment guy telling me everything is within spec, when obviously it's not due to the excessive inner tire wear. Also, I can't just rotate the tires, because I run a staggered set-up.


Last edited by yellowpony1568; 04-10-2014 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Spelling
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014
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inner tire wear is usually an indication of your camber settings being to aggressive for your driving style. I don't think its toe cause then your whole tire would be worn... although it could be a combination of toe and camber.

can you post your alignment specs? pic of said tire?


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12.502 @ 112.28 - 1.917 60' <-- stock tires
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014
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The more agressively you corner, the more the tire on the outside (with the weight) rolls onto its *outside* sidewall and wears the outside of the tire.

To counter this, you dial some negative camber into the vehicle which means that if viewed from the front of the car, the tops of the tires are closer together than the bottoms. The front tires are leaning inward. This way, when you corner the tire rolls over into a flat position. The wider footprint give you more grip and it doesn't chew front tires up. However. There is no free lunch. When you are driving down the road nice and straight, the vehicle is riding on the inner shoulders of the tread.

So. They aligned your car. Yay. Problem is (and keep in mind I've been the dealership tech you took it to for thousands of alignments) they don't want to move caster or camber unless they have to. If you're within the arbitrary "green zone" on the computer, and both sides are closely matched? He's going to leave it alone, set your toe, and print out a pretty picture for you to take home. Remember, he gets paid an hour or two to do an alignment in most cases and it can get very time consuming once you start adjusting major suspension components. Especially when, like the Mustang, they don't *have* camber adjusting bolts installed from the factory. I'm pretty sure that's the case.

You will probably, as a gut estimation, want to bring it to a shop which will take about 0.5 degrees of negative camber out of your current setup, readjust the toe, and send you on your way.

(The guys who have caster/camber plates often don't realize that adjustments to camber affect their toe, because tilting a tire inboard or outboard moves it closer/farther from the steering rack, and the tie rod end is a fixed length, so the tire toes in or out a bit when you adjust camber.)

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2014
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Your number 1 problem is the inability to rotate your tires. Getting 30k miles is very good for tires that are in the same spot their entire life. Also, if camber is within factory specs, it is not attributing much to the inner side wall wear. Camber at those levels will put a slight taper on the tire, not wear the inner side walls multiple times faster than the rest of the tire. You cannot adjust camber or caster with the factory setup anyhow. The best you can do is to get your toe as close to zero as possible. If you are anywhere even close to max allowable and cannot rotate you will continue to have the issue. If you want to keep the staggered setup, accelerated tire wear is something you will have to live with even you get the toe to exactly zero.

I am running -1 camber and my tires wear fairly even. The heaviest wear I see is the front outer walls, but I corner aggressively. I also run a square setup so I can still rotate too. I hope this helps.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014 Thread Starter
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This is all good information, and I appreciate you taking the time. If factory settings are not adjustable, then I guess I could pick up a set of caster camber plates so it could be adjusted. This car did this to the factory Pirellis, so it must have come off the truck with an alignment issue. I do need to find an alignment guy who can actually make changes based on what he actually sees on the tires, and not if the computer shows it's green , I agree with that.We live about an hour North of Atlanta, so if anyone has a recommendation of a good alignment guy, let me know. I will see if I can get the last alignment paperwork and attach it so you guys can see the specs.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014
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If you go to more of performance/speed shop you can generally explain your needs and they can make it work. You just need to outline exactly what you're looking for. And find a shop with an alignment rack.

But I've also had luck with hitting up a local Firestone, too. As long as I make it clear to the service writer that I want to speak with the technician before he does the alignment, we have a quick chat and he realizes I'm not an unreasonable jackass but rather someone who knows exactly what he wants, and he sets the car up accordingly.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowpony1568 View Post
This is all good information, and I appreciate you taking the time. If factory settings are not adjustable, then I guess I could pick up a set of caster camber plates so it could be adjusted. This car did this to the factory Pirellis, so it must have come off the truck with an alignment issue. I do need to find an alignment guy who can actually make changes based on what he actually sees on the tires, and not if the computer shows it's green , I agree with that.We live about an hour North of Atlanta, so if anyone has a recommendation of a good alignment guy, let me know. I will see if I can get the last alignment paperwork and attach it so you guys can see the specs.
can you post a pic of the tire?

2014 White Mustang GT MT82 3.73 Brembo Recaro
Kooks catback, Barton 2 post, CJPonyparts Clutchline, Vorshlag Brakelines, ST Coilovers, BMR LCA, Panhard Rod, and Relo Brackets
12.502 @ 112.28 - 1.917 60' <-- stock tires
(Avatar is my old car, don't have a cool pic of my 'merica car yet)
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