OOOOH God....snapped the head off of a fender bolt! - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014 Thread Starter
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OOOOH God....snapped the head off of a fender bolt!

i was almost done installing my MMD hood struts, when i over tightened the fender bolt (didn't seem like i put that much torque on it at all?) and the head of it snapped off. there isn't enough room with the hood on to get a drill in there, so the hoods going to have to come off. do you guys think the bolt will easily spin itself out with a drill, or is this going to be a nightmare?


2012 Black/black GT Premium, Brembo, HID, 3.73 - Borla LT's, Borla x-pipe, Borla touring cat back, Airraid CAI, Bama 93R tune, Steeda LCA/UCA, MM CC plates, panhard and bracket, front/rear swaybars, billet front/rear swaybar brackets/links, chassis brace, Bump steer kit, Tri-Ax shifter/bracket,Eibach Multi-Pro R2 CO's, FRPP diff cover, Weds Wheels 19x10, 275/40/19 Bridgestone Pole Position, GT500 rear spoiler, CDC chin spoiler. Full stereo system.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014
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Getting the hood off the car safely will be your only nightmare. Use a small, strong (like titanium) bit to drill a pilot hole for a screw extractor, and you'll have that fender screw outta there in a matter of minutes.


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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy9946 View Post
Getting the hood off the car safely will be your only nightmare. Use a small, strong (like titanium) bit to drill a pilot hole for a screw extractor, and you'll have that fender screw outta there in a matter of minutes.
do you think that if i take the fender liner off, that i could get to it that way, rather than drilling it from the top?

2012 Black/black GT Premium, Brembo, HID, 3.73 - Borla LT's, Borla x-pipe, Borla touring cat back, Airraid CAI, Bama 93R tune, Steeda LCA/UCA, MM CC plates, panhard and bracket, front/rear swaybars, billet front/rear swaybar brackets/links, chassis brace, Bump steer kit, Tri-Ax shifter/bracket,Eibach Multi-Pro R2 CO's, FRPP diff cover, Weds Wheels 19x10, 275/40/19 Bridgestone Pole Position, GT500 rear spoiler, CDC chin spoiler. Full stereo system.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014
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Why don"t you try a small angle head drill,if that will fit,and I think it should, it will save you the time removing the hood.Sears also sells an easy out bit for problems such as yours,I was a Mechanic for 35 years, things happen,take a deep breath and it will all work out.GOOD LUCK!
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjracing View Post
i was almost done installing my MMD hood struts, when i over tightened the fender bolt (didn't seem like i put that much torque on it at all?) and the head of it snapped off. there isn't enough room with the hood on to get a drill in there, so the hoods going to have to come off. do you guys think the bolt will easily spin itself out with a drill, or is this going to be a nightmare?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 Coyote View Post
Why don"t you try a small angle head drill,if that will fit,and I think it should, it will save you the time removing the hood.Sears also sells an easy out bit for problems such as yours,I was a Mechanic for 35 years, things happen,take a deep breath and it will all work out.GOOD LUCK!
I'm sorry to hear about the issue you're having. Sounds like 5.0 Coyote has pointed you in the right direction. This is exactly what I would try to do before taking the hood and or fender lining off the car.

Hope this helps! Let us know if we can be of any assistance.

-Dan

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014
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fender lining comes off easy..i doubt it will help but worth a try

Maybe a punch/chisel/hammer and you can work it out that way

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014
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Can you post a photo of what you're talking about so we can have a little better idea of what the situation is?

Fender bolts are neither highly torque or big grade bolts so you should have too much trouble getting it out once you identify the right approach.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 Coyote View Post
Why don"t you try a small angle head drill,if that will fit,and I think it should, it will save you the time removing the hood.Sears also sells an easy out bit for problems such as yours,I was a Mechanic for 35 years, things happen,take a deep breath and it will all work out.GOOD LUCK!
This is a good suggestion if the angle head will allow you to appropriately drill a pilot for the screw extractor/easy out.

I worked construction in college, and I swear I broke about 100 bolt heads in my day. Screw extractors work as advertised as long as you drill that pilot, but you're going to need access to the top or bottom of the broken screw. Accordingly, I don't think the fender idea will help.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014 Thread Starter
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tnx for all the replies gents. here are some pics.....
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2012 Black/black GT Premium, Brembo, HID, 3.73 - Borla LT's, Borla x-pipe, Borla touring cat back, Airraid CAI, Bama 93R tune, Steeda LCA/UCA, MM CC plates, panhard and bracket, front/rear swaybars, billet front/rear swaybar brackets/links, chassis brace, Bump steer kit, Tri-Ax shifter/bracket,Eibach Multi-Pro R2 CO's, FRPP diff cover, Weds Wheels 19x10, 275/40/19 Bridgestone Pole Position, GT500 rear spoiler, CDC chin spoiler. Full stereo system.
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Sort of overkill for a heli-coil install, but here's a real "Southern Boy" tellin ya how to do it. I dig the accent.


http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5543-10-Metric-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRG34/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt (may not be right size)
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OP:

Easy Day!

It looks to me like you have enough room to get a normal cordless drill in there, no? If so, there's two ways to deal with it:

1.)Get a set of left handed drill bits (screw removers). Take a normal drill bit and drill a pilot hole and once you have enough of a cavity, insert the left handed bit and reverse the bolt out

2.) if you bugger it up using the above method, all you have to do is just drill out the center of the bolt. Take a small drill bit and drill all the way through until you are at or near the bottom of the bolt. Once you have that 'tunnel' drilled, you can move up to a bigger drill bit and remove more material from the center of the bolt and down. Progress over two or three sizes of drill bit will get you closer to the later edges of the bolt (careful not to bugger up the threads of the fender hole). Once you've removed enough material the bolt will lose tension and you can spin it out with a left hand bit or even a pair of needle nose pliers

If you CANNOT fit a drill at a 90* angle - this is what you need to do:
Drill a small pilot hole (dimple) somewhere near the edge of the bolt shaft - this dimple needs to be just deep enough to accomodate the pointy end of a punch like this:



Once you can get the pointed end of the punch in the dimple, just position the punch at like a 45* or 30* angle and keep tapping the end of the punch with the hammer in the direction of loosening the bolt (to the left). This will take a bit of time, but once you start the bolt moving - you are in the clear and it will spin out easier

If all else fails, go to Sears and buy a angle drill and do Procedure 1 above. If you go to Fatwallet.com you can find some good coupons that will get you a Craftsman Nextec angled dtill for less than $50.

Lastly, make sure to douse whats left of the bolt with Liquid Wrench (the yellow can) before you start:


Good luck.

You'll have this out in no time.

2011 Mustang GT M6 3.31s

Matt HONEYCUTT Tune, Lethal Off-Road X, GT500 axlebacks, J&M LCAs, UPR UCA, Whiteline LCA relocation brackets, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, GT500 strut mounts, SR Strut Tower Brace

Best 1/4 E/T (05/18/14 MIR - no tune, X-pipe, or UCA): 12.920 @ 109.40 mph (2.059 60ft)
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Sorry to hear about the bolt. I think you have a lot of ideas to try, but if and when you pull the hood off, have some friends over to help. You don't wanna tweak it. Take your time
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014 Thread Starter
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tnx so much guys for all the help. i will tackle this over the wknd. fingers crossed!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjracing View Post
do you think that if i take the fender liner off, that i could get to it that way, rather than drilling it from the top?
This is your best bet - and it is easy to do - you will just have to take the wheel off first - don't go at it from the top unless you can use a puch & hammer & the broken bolt rotates easily - too easy to damage the hood or fender if you go at it from the top.
Trust me on this one - been there done that.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonrakercat View Post
This is your best bet - and it is easy to do - you will just have to take the wheel off first - don't go at it from the top unless you can use a puch & hammer & the broken bolt rotates easily - too easy to damage the hood or fender if you go at it from the top.
Trust me on this one - been there done that.
i agree. do you know if i will be able to see and access the bottom of the bolt from underneath, after i remove the liner?


2012 Black/black GT Premium, Brembo, HID, 3.73 - Borla LT's, Borla x-pipe, Borla touring cat back, Airraid CAI, Bama 93R tune, Steeda LCA/UCA, MM CC plates, panhard and bracket, front/rear swaybars, billet front/rear swaybar brackets/links, chassis brace, Bump steer kit, Tri-Ax shifter/bracket,Eibach Multi-Pro R2 CO's, FRPP diff cover, Weds Wheels 19x10, 275/40/19 Bridgestone Pole Position, GT500 rear spoiler, CDC chin spoiler. Full stereo system.
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