My 2013 Boss' 1.5 month long "BBQ Ticking" Story - Page 4 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Wedge of oil is misleading but oil leaks (controlled)all the way the bearing not at the top. Valvetrain noise doesn't just change with oil temp but alum expands when under temp. My 04 mach 1 was quiet when hot had slight tick. Oil thins out when hot
Misleading or not thats what some technical writings state it as.I believe the noise with these engines not all of them of course is the valve train. Particularly the hdy lash adjusters. the 5.4, 4.6, and 5.8 all had some issues with these. the bearings in the pic tho not ideal don't really tell the correct story to the ticking problem. I believe the problem lies else where.

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Don't think they had that much trouble with lifters/hyd adjusters. My brother went through trouble changing them out on two 2v and 4v noise never changed. That's not fun to do in car. Only ones who did have trouble from not changing the oil or letting it run low. This is very important especially 3v engine cam phasers. Seen many that are just plugged then they rattle after that.

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Well thanks for pointing that out. Where do you think the problem lies. My buddies 5.0in his truck is quiet as a mouse. He only has 23k on it using 5w 20 Synthetic oil, mobile 1 If i'm correct.
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Mine 5.0 is quiet unlike both 04 mach1's I had after they came up to temp had a tick. Did it hurt the engine NO wasn't nice to hear but it never change in sound. Tolerance stacking of block, head, valvetrain when everything is put together. Exh leak can sound like valvetrain noise. Have seen injectors make a lot of noise before. I do think it's from head cyl after it warms up because being alum it expands. I know from machining alum it may measure out right come back next day blank blank would change. Must machine slowly and keep it flooded with coolant/cutting fluid.
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Mine 5.0 is quiet unlike both 04 mach1's I had after they came up to temp had a tick. Did it hurt the engine NO wasn't nice to hear but it never change in sound. Tolerance stacking of block, head, valvetrain when everything is put together. Exh leak can sound like valvetrain noise. Have seen injectors make a lot of noise before. I do think it's from head cyl after it warms up because being alum it expands. I know from machining alum it may measure out right come back next day blank blank would change. Must machine slowly and keep it flooded with coolant/cutting fluid.
Too true I've also witness the same thing while machining aluminium. The tick of the engine I bought is while its cold after it warms up, its almost unnoticeable. Thats why I'm leaning toward valve train. A bottom end sound you must admit would never really go away and with time would get worse, at least thats always been my experience. I'm just trying to see where to look for. The engine isn't in the car yet. I really don't want to but might remove the pan to see if any of the rods have play, but I have a hunch that i will not find any. I don't believe the bottom end is where the problem lies. Good conversation it bro-thens the mind.
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I went on ahead and removed the oil pan to inspect the bottom end, and I must say shear brilliance. The componets are nice and of high quality for a factory engine I must say. Checked all the rods and as I've stated before all where nice and wiggle free, you do have some fwd and aft movement but that is very normal. This thing is highly clean, heck you can still see he paint ref marks used during assy. You can also see the cylinder cross hatch marks for ring breaking.

Last edited by rob47v; 12-28-2014 at 05:41 PM.
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Could be piston slap when cold remember 4.6 had offset piston pins it was sup post to control that. I don't know if it was carried over on to 5.0. Now factory pistons had this but none of aftermarket did this
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Could be piston slap when cold remember 4.6 had offset piston pins it was sup post to control that. I don't know if it was carried over on to 5.0. Now factory pistons had this but none of aftermarket did this
I thought I'd share this with you and this isn't from me its from the bearing manufactures.
First, itís essential to understand that bearings
depend on a film of oil to keep them separated
from the shaft surface. This oil film is developed
by shaft rotation. as the shaft rotates it pulls oil
into the loaded area of the bearing and rides up
on this film much like a tire hydroplaning on wet
pavement. Grooving in a bearing acts like tread
in a tire to break up the oil film. While you want
your tires to grip the road, you donít want your
bearings to grip the shaft.
The primary reason for having any grooving in a
main bearing is to provide oil to the connecting
rods. Without rod bearings to feed, a simple
oil hole would be sufficient to lubricate a main
bearing. many early engines used full grooved
bearings and some even used multiple grooves.
as engine and bearing technology developed,
bearing grooving was removed from modern
lower main bearings. The result is in a thicker
film of oil for the shaft to ride on.

Sorry for the long paragraph, its directly from Clevite's site
And I believe they should know, they fabricate these things LOL.
Anyhow after further examining the pic provided in this thread. It seams as ford either got lousy QC control in their engine plant where ever that might be. The pic shows poor bearing wear to be more specific poor eccentricity of the bearings. Channel this with too thin of an oil at star-up and the end result is what's in front of us on this pic.
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Something like that depends on which manufacture you talk to and stuff from training classes. Bearings in question really not bad or cause tick or knock. That's just layover they put in the bearings protect them from 1st startup. I see this on bearings in new engine and overhauls that I've been into at work.
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Ok different way of saying it same end result. The one thing that seams to be fact is that the sound is coming from the block section of the engine. How else can you explain Ford changing out the blocks, meaning complete short blocks and the sound going away? My quest and I wish there was Ford tech that could shine some light on this. Is where in the short block are the failures happening. A rod knock is consistent, and as we all know, and a cylinder load test should show if its a rod or not. But a main knock will not change pitch nor dissipate with a cylinder load check it remains constant regardless. I don't like throwing parts at something just to see if it goes away. I believe this needs to be handle with some intelligence. Boy I maybe short in that department!!!!
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Also every time cyl fires there a lot of force there. It does push piston into side of cyl, rod into crank. Crank also has some twist in it after each cyl fires. It does push oil out but there oil but not exactly floating but oil takes heat away so bearing don't scuff. That's my point reason why I say this I've been into industry/mining engines that are never shutdown. Biggest reason why bearings/engine last so long are tighter clearances keeping more of combustion gases out of crankcase. Not all blow by from cyl's there's oil vapor/miss from oil being hot and oil being whipped by moving parts.

Why they change engines out depend on who they are talking too. Mileage, what failed, how up keep has been done, they look at many things and owner. I still don't get the why or reason I work at dealership. Why they replace part on this vehicle and not another. Engineers are really good at telling you to throw parts at it too. It's not always us at dealership level doing this. We go through troubleshooting and do things that we have seen go bad still don't fix it so then you get factory involved. Even they can lead you down wrong path. But we also get into fleets they bend over backwards to help them but owner operator not going to happen unless they know someone. Fleet driver ran engine with no coolant but they policy it why because they just bought 200 trucks with there engine. This isn't just Ford, GM, Dodge and etc they all do it
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I've talked to warranty manager he can give you long list on why's and reasons. But there's human side of it too factory guy having good or bad day
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On a factory new engine the only human side fault that I can see is dirt. Which plays a huge role, bearings beings installed backwards or wrong size bearings which should be just about impossible on a new engine. Improper torque, or improper manufacturing of new parts. The 3.7 I'm swapping out of my car to put in an unknown 5.0. Does tick or as some call it knock at startup, but the noise do go away once the engine reaches op temps. Thats normal with todays engines coupled with todays oils. I'm hoping that it will be the case with the 5.0 I'm installing as soon as I get all the necessary parts for the swap. The guy I bought it from said it sounds awful at startup, but quiets down once at op temps. I believe 5w oils is to thin for startups at min it should be 10w, just my 2 cents. Anyhow on you acquiring a list from your service manager that would be great it gives reasons, maybe not specific but a place to start with none the less. Most guys at work do the parts replacement as you call it. I can't, I left that dept do to how its ran and the issues their having. They are trying to get me back cause of the way I do work. Not the crazy way!!! Oh and I understand the physics of the engine and how a crank flexes with the rod impulses, but the sound is different that being a crank knock to a rod knock more consistent and usually from what I've seen at lest doesn't change during a cylinder load test as where a rod knock sound does. Thats what I like to find out has this been done? There seams to be little trouble shooting in todays market and its understandable to a point the customer wants their car back asap, but without the opportunity to troubleshoot no conclusions will be had.

Last edited by rob47v; 01-05-2015 at 12:04 PM.
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Well yes human side putting engine together. But I was talking about warranty guy at the factory on them having good or bad day. Thinner oil partly for emissions takes less engine power to pump it. Also clearances are a lot smaller but oils of today are far better. Most engine lines are automated with very little human interaction. There's troubleshooting but owner wants vehicle back now and not being understanding it takes time. Like this try telling owner to clear the code for coolant temp running low you to let truck sit 24 hrs cold soak without turning key on to reset ECM. Issue was t-stat rubber seal come out of place letting engine run cold. There are days I like to kick owner of the truck there the reason at times vehicle is down. I like to see others step in my shoes if they think being tech is easy because it's NOT. Owners think it's simple just replace the part send me on my way it don't work that way.

The reasons and why are not set in stone it varies everyday on warranty replacing major parts like engine, transmission, rear end or expensive parts. 5.0 you have to be sure there's no problem would be take engine apart. Think about this what that guy says it's a tick could totally different noise. I've been there before chasing a noise that wasn't there it was something else.
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I guess your right on disassembling the engine to have a look I might just find something. A set of gaskets which only ford carries at the moment is cheap insurance.

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