Jacking question - Page 7 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Sorry 20's

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Did you have to remove or modify the bump stop brackets where they stick out toward the wheels? It's likely less of an issue with your 20x11's than with 18x11's like mine, though it might still be something that gets in the way when you're removing or installing the wheels. Mostly, that bulging bit of metal is for some sort of shipping tie-down that uses the hole and needs space behind it to hook to.

I also ended up trimming the length of the shock boots (Koni yellows, if that matters).

The PHB length - and the stiffness of its bushings - does get pretty important with 11" wide wheels.


Norm

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'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangfreak196 View Post
Apparently im going to destroy my car. I jack up the front using the center of the k member and the rear using the pumpkin.
Odd, I was asking last year and got a different answer:

See 3-31-2014 in this link:

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ustangs-2.html
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shogun94 View Post
Odd, I was asking last year and got a different answer:

See 3-31-2014 in this link:

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ustangs-2.html
I also found this:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...nt-cradle.html
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Norm, didn't have to trim anything, although it's pretty tight back there. I have a BMR adjustable panhard bar as well. I'm not too keen on hacking the bump stop pads and my only issue is I have to get wheels off the ground with the suspension loaded to remove wheels, not a biggie. I've been using the diff (torsen) and want to start using that spreader beam from HF but need to fab some saddles to place under the tubes first. The last tine I used it on the front it had a pretty good bow in it so I'm going to weld it and maybe even add a couple flat bars to make it a little more rigid. Now that presents another problem because it will be too wide to use on the rear axle tubes. I'll have to buy a second one, get it with one of their 20% coupons.
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Will you have enough clearance to cover the situation where the rear suspension unloads unexpectedly?


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'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
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Steeda puts this combo on their Q650 mustang, I guess we'll see!!!
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Truth be told, I was hoping I wouldn't have to trim the brackets either. That lasted less than halfway through my trial-fit-and-see exercise. No way was I going to put myself in the position of having to jack the car up in such a specific manner for periodic tire rotations and brake bleedings . . . or at the side of the road.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
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Quick question for ya'll in regarding to jacking up the car.

The first time I used a lift on base to install my axlebacks I noticed I couldn't use the four point lift in the front as the front pads hit the rocker panel before they touch the pinch weld lift points. Unfortunately the base didn't have any adapters to convert the front pads to pinch weld lifts. I opted to lift the car using the front cross members and rear pinch welds (no conflict with rocker panels). I've now read that jacking up the car on the cross members can cause uni-body damage. Do you think any damage was done the one time I did this? Future lifts for oil changes and other work I used the drive on lift. Unfortunately I'm not home right now, nor while I be for a while to inspect the car.

Thanks in advance.
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on my 13 it looks like if you cut those away there isn't a landing spot for the rear jounce stop bumpers.
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What I finally ended up with was this ↓↓↓ . The portion that the bump stop lands on does have some 'shape' to it that gives it considerably more strength than if it was only a flat strip tacked only under that short horizontal length.

Axle centering could be a concern, and if you're lowered you'd want to favor getting better overall centering of the bumpstops over getting "perfect" external appearance centering.


Norm
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'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
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Well the snow finally melted enough for me to get the car out on the road. The car now has "0" wheel hop and that makes me smile. It was in the 40's and traction was limited with the Nitto NT05 tires.
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Question guys... My floor jack wont reach all th way to the frame rail for the front, and cant use the pinch wields cause the plastic is hanging lower. Is it safe to jack the metal frame thing directly adjacent to the pinch wields, running along side it?
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Try a set of these jackpads from zl1addons.com. No damage to the pinch weld and won't crush the plastic.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kv2 View Post
Question guys... My floor jack wont reach all th way to the frame rail for the front, and cant use the pinch wields cause the plastic is hanging lower. Is it safe to jack the metal frame thing directly adjacent to the pinch wields, running along side it?
I would not do it. I recommend the jack pads.

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2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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