Hey everyone,
So I recently lowered my 2011 GT Convertible with the items in my signature. For those on mobile devices the mods are as follows:
Steeda Sport lowering springs (conv)
Koni STR.T struts and shocks (orange)
GT500 Strut mounts
Steeda billet lower control arms
Steeda adj. upper control arm and bracket
BMR LCA relocation brackets
BMR adj. panhard bar
If you want to use the GT500 strut mounts, you have to get the Koni's for 2005-2010, which have a small diameter rod end. They function the same. Also, when installing the mounts, you can rotate them 180 degrees to help correct the camber. I took the vehicle in for an alignment today after letting the car settle for a couple of weeks. I've attached the results.
You can see that the toe was way off on the left side, but the camber was right within spec. The cross caster is just outside spec, but should not matter much. A set of camber caster plates would fix this, but I'm not doing much auto crossing so it shouldn't be a problem.
Thought I would post the sheet for others to see. I recommend getting a alignment after any suspension work, but as you can see, lowering the car does not automatically throw your camber way off. I also suspect that the toe on the left was already there before I did the drop. Either way, $80 well spent and if I do some more mods, I now have a baseline to work with.
The alignment was done on a Hawkeye by Hunter Engineering.
Happy wrench turning!
So I recently lowered my 2011 GT Convertible with the items in my signature. For those on mobile devices the mods are as follows:
Steeda Sport lowering springs (conv)
Koni STR.T struts and shocks (orange)
GT500 Strut mounts
Steeda billet lower control arms
Steeda adj. upper control arm and bracket
BMR LCA relocation brackets
BMR adj. panhard bar
If you want to use the GT500 strut mounts, you have to get the Koni's for 2005-2010, which have a small diameter rod end. They function the same. Also, when installing the mounts, you can rotate them 180 degrees to help correct the camber. I took the vehicle in for an alignment today after letting the car settle for a couple of weeks. I've attached the results.
You can see that the toe was way off on the left side, but the camber was right within spec. The cross caster is just outside spec, but should not matter much. A set of camber caster plates would fix this, but I'm not doing much auto crossing so it shouldn't be a problem.
Thought I would post the sheet for others to see. I recommend getting a alignment after any suspension work, but as you can see, lowering the car does not automatically throw your camber way off. I also suspect that the toe on the left was already there before I did the drop. Either way, $80 well spent and if I do some more mods, I now have a baseline to work with.
The alignment was done on a Hawkeye by Hunter Engineering.
Happy wrench turning!