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Alignment data after lowering 2011 Mustang GT

4K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  tntoy 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

So I recently lowered my 2011 GT Convertible with the items in my signature. For those on mobile devices the mods are as follows:

Steeda Sport lowering springs (conv)
Koni STR.T struts and shocks (orange)
GT500 Strut mounts
Steeda billet lower control arms
Steeda adj. upper control arm and bracket
BMR LCA relocation brackets
BMR adj. panhard bar

If you want to use the GT500 strut mounts, you have to get the Koni's for 2005-2010, which have a small diameter rod end. They function the same. Also, when installing the mounts, you can rotate them 180 degrees to help correct the camber. I took the vehicle in for an alignment today after letting the car settle for a couple of weeks. I've attached the results.

You can see that the toe was way off on the left side, but the camber was right within spec. The cross caster is just outside spec, but should not matter much. A set of camber caster plates would fix this, but I'm not doing much auto crossing so it shouldn't be a problem.

Thought I would post the sheet for others to see. I recommend getting a alignment after any suspension work, but as you can see, lowering the car does not automatically throw your camber way off. I also suspect that the toe on the left was already there before I did the drop. Either way, $80 well spent and if I do some more mods, I now have a baseline to work with.

The alignment was done on a Hawkeye by Hunter Engineering.

Happy wrench turning!
 

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#3 ·
Hey pokkus,

Could be a number of reasons. First, have you had the car aligned? Are you talking about wandering or pulling?

Toe and camber being out of spec can make the car pull. Caster can also cause this if the two sides are out of whack.

What condition are your tires in? What size and style? Have you had them balanced? Try swapping the two front tires and see if the problem goes away or it pulls in the other direction.
 
#4 ·
I just did the swap to those springs and struts. I had some slight inside wear on the left fron before the swap. Though I do not have the numbers, everything was aligned with no problems.

And I am EXTREMELY happy with the new car!:heha:
 
#6 ·
And pokkus... Did you have your car aligned after lowering it? If so, do you havea printout of it?

If not, get it done.

There's no point worrying about the ideal specifications, however, because on your car all they can do is set the toe. Without camber plates, camber bolts, or slotting the strut holes (which I did)... toe is your only rremaining adjustment.

That means that the alignment is pretty idiot-proof, however. Go find a tire shop who has a reasonable price on one, and get a printout. If you post it up here then myself or one of the other guys on the forum who has made their living underneath a Hunter machine at some point can tell you what's going on. If need to spend money on things camber plates or bolts in order to get the car dialed in for your needs and driving style.
 
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