Weird noise after accidental reverse burnout - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015 Thread Starter
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Weird noise after accidental reverse burnout

Earlier today on my way home I decided to do a burnout but in reverse on "accident" when I was really trying to burnout in 1st gear. Anyways during the reverse burnout the car hoped real bad then I realized I was in reverse. So I quickly shifted into 1st to do a perform a proper burnout. Once I finished I noticed a metal on metal scraping sound that increased as the speed increased. I pulled over a couple of times to try and look under the car to see what could be making that noise if there was something hanging from the bottom but I didn't see anything. Eventually the noise somewhat went away but can still be heard whenever I'm shifting into first. I really can't tell if the noise is coming from the center of the car or from the rear end. Later today I will jack the car up to see what could be making that noise. I have feeling it's something major but at the same time it's not. Anyways I'm curious to see if anyone has been in the same situation or have had a similar experience. I appreciate any advice in advance. Thanks!

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015
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Hey from Austin!

Is your car stock? It may just be the exhaust hitting the driveshaft after torquing everything in the wrong direction. You'll have to look around underneath for scuff marks on your various components.

What might help is to have someone walk along side the car while you drive slowly on a good road (to eliminate road noise) and listen to where the sound is coming from.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015
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I too found out the car will wheel hop like crazy if you try to burn the tires in reverse. I will never try that again. I am curious as to what you find out. It is possible that the exhaust may have shifted or moved due to the violent wheel hop.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gManTexas View Post
Hey from Austin!

Is your car stock? It may just be the exhaust hitting the driveshaft after torquing everything in the wrong direction. You'll have to look around underneath for scuff marks on your various components.

What might help is to have someone walk along side the car while you drive slowly on a good road (to eliminate road noise) and listen to where the sound is coming from.
Hey gManTexas!
My car is not stock. My current mods are cai, x-pipe, Flowmasters outlaw axlebacks, SR lowering springs(1.5), Koni oranges, BMR adj. panhard, and J&M c/c plates(not on car). I jacked up the car and recorded the noise. Which I will post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
I too found out the car will wheel hop like crazy if you try to burn the tires in reverse. I will never try that again. I am curious as to what you find out. It is possible that the exhaust may have shifted or moved due to the violent wheel hop.
Hey PMDmustang!
Yeah that reverse burnout had some violent hops but from the video I think something is loose in the passenger side cat. I'm not sure what it could be or if there is anything that could get loose in the cat.

https://youtu.be/BQensLZG2UI
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015
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Cool video Mike. So is the sound in the cat, the same sound you were talking about in your original post or something different?

Since you have a welded setup, it'll be tough to take off the cat and shake out whatever is rattling in there, which could just be welding slag or the honeycomb structure itself.

The other noise sounds like heat shield rattling or exhaust pipe somewhere, although the exhaust gas pressure could be causing whatever is in the cat to rattle.

BTW, why aren't you using the y-pipes? Take those blocking plates off, LOL!

2011 Race Red GT vert, 5.0 A6
FRPP ProCal, JLT oil separator, Boss 302 quads w/ Corsa Xtreme axle backs, Koni STR.T (orange), GT500 strut mounts, Steeda Sports, Steeda billet LCAs, Steeda adj UCA, Steeda adj rear swaybar, BMR adj panhard, BMR lca relocation brackets, Boss 302 lower front fascia
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2015 Thread Starter
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Thanks and the sound in the cat is what I was referring to in the original post. As far as the welded set-up that's how it was set-up when I bought the car but I can take the car to a buddy to un-weld/weld the cat back up. The heat shield on the drivers side was a little bent but I fixed it and the other side seemed alright. I also agree with you that the exhaust gas pressure is causing something to rattle in the cat. The car came with x-pipes and I've thought about taking those blocking plates off to see what the car would sound like but I'm not sure if it will throw a code or something.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike01 View Post
Thanks and the sound in the cat is what I was referring to in the original post. As far as the welded set-up that's how it was set-up when I bought the car but I can take the car to a buddy to un-weld/weld the cat back up. The heat shield on the drivers side was a little bent but I fixed it and the other side seemed alright. I also agree with you that the exhaust gas pressure is causing something to rattle in the cat. The car came with x-pipes and I've thought about taking those blocking plates off to see what the car would sound like but I'm not sure if it will throw a code or something.
I believe if you take those plates off it will sound like you are running open headers. I don't know if it would throw a code or not for sure. I would think that less exhaust will go through the cat and thus no code would be thrown.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-20-2015 Thread Starter
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Yeah I'm to take them off this weekend and post a video but as far as my problem goes I haven't had a chance to fix it yet but I will soon.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015
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Sounds like slag that broke off from a bad weld on the inside....small/heavy piece of solder/metal
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Besides making sure that you are NOT in Reverse.....If you have 3.55:1 or 3.73:1's, You Should be doing "Burn-Outs" in 2nd gear! Especially if you are going to hold her there with the Brakes!....This will minimize "Wheel-Hop" AND keep you from Bouncing her against the Rev. Limiter, Fuel cutoff....

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I seen a friend of mine do a burnout in reverse several years ago in a 95 mustang gt after that he had a noise come to find out he tore up his transmission it was a 5 speed standard. I just cant remember what he said was tore up in the tranny. Its been to many years ago. I hope that didn't happen to you. All I can remember is he had to get it rebuilt.
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