2013 Vortech Installed, problems - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015 Thread Starter
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Unhappy 2013 Vortech Installed, problems

Hi all.

Just finished installing a Vortech kit on the 2013.

Install wasn't too bad, took my time doing it. Everything went smooth, fired up the 1st go, no leaks etc.

1st test drive around the block OK. Went back in double check stuff, everything looks good.

2nd drive around 20 minutes in length. Giving it more and more gas and watching the AFR's like a hawk. Haven't gone WOT yet.

3rd drive acceletating in 1st about 60% throttle, loud PSSSTTT, but unlike the regular bypass valve noise. I let off, go into 2nd, then 3rd and just coast. Can hear air wooshing by, at this point I was thinking I blew a charge pipe or a clamp somewhere.

Checked all the pipes, clamps and all seem tight. Checked the vacuum lines and all are connected.

4th drive, constant sound of air going by, feels like the bypass valve isn't closing all the way, or is stuck open.

Car runs fine just driving around, no check engine lights or anything like that. Idle is a bit gooffy, but it is on the canned tune.

So to summaries,
- initial couple test drives went good.
-car hasn't seen WOT since install
-loud PSSSTT, during a later test drive and now constant sound of air going by when driving.
-checked all hose clamps and couplers and vacuum lines.
- bypass valve is the main suspect now.

So, please advise.

Also please direct me to a good mustang shop near the Rochester/Buffalo/Syracuse area for tuning and possibly fixing this current issue.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015
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I would agree on bypass or something loose after mass airflow meter. This would mess with the idle because unrecorded air is entering the intake after the mass air flow meter. Take another look and good luck!!!!!


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015
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There are A LOT of clamps and couplers here; check them all. Don't forget to check the other end of lines that go to stuff like Bypass valve. You had to cut a pretty significant line to T in the valve, make sure it's sealed, completely. Make sure the 1-way valve to the brake booster is still one way. You got a boost gauge?

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015 Thread Starter
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Stew5.0: The idle was a little funky from the beginning. But it got better as it warmed up. I will Check around the MAF, maybe that square seal on it blew. Thanks for reply!

5LHO

Boost gauge install got postponed as I ordered a wrong vent pod holder. About the line where I cut to T the bpv. Where is the 1-way valve to the brake booster you speak of? The instruction manual did not mention this.

It is dark now, car drives fine and AFRs are ok during light throttle daily driving. I will try to look at it more in depth tomorrow after work, but it might have to wait until Friday for a complete inspection.

Thank you all for help.

Now any recommendations on good tuners in my area? (Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse)
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015
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The 1 way valve is built into the end connected to the brake booster. They are designed to only see vac so, high boost pressure can cause them to fail over time. Unusual but, we can assume you'll check the obvious stuff. You could also have blown the diaphragm in the BOV, or the gasket sealing it to the pipe, for more odd problems.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015 Thread Starter
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-Checked the 1 way valve, looks like a valve to me...JK...not really sure what I should be looking for with that particular item.

-Installed boost gauge. Tapped into the same line as the bov (that is the correct one right?). Also checked the vacuum house running into the bov and the T connection..All look good.

-Took it for a quick spin, doesn't make boost. Used about 30% throttle and AFRs went from 14(cruising) to 14.7-15.3(accelerating in 3rd) at 2000-3000rpm.

-I remember there was an aluminum o ring with the bov, not sure if it is supposed to be installed, but I installed it. It sits between the flange and the diaphragm. Any one know if that should be in there? I'm thinking it could have jammed the bov open. Will take the bov off tomorrow and look at it.

good day to all, and thanks for help.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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Yeah, I don't recall an aluminum o-ring. Just a gasket and the BOV sitting on it. Instructions don't mention anything about anything like that either. You didn't disassemble or push on the BOV, right?

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015 Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

-I found the leak. A coupler blew of the pipe where the bov is attached. There just wasn't enough coupler on the pipe I guess.

-Also took the bov of the flange and inspected that aluminum O ring. I think it is meant to be there.

-Put the thing back together. Test drove...Still haven't gone wot. Did a few light throttle pulls around 30-40% and everything sounds normal...bov operates like it should....
-The issue is during those test light throttle pulls the AFR's were in the mid to high 15s.
-I did unplug the battery so the ecu was reset.


Any ideas as to why the thing is running lean?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015
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Oh yes...Now IC. the Al. ring was already installed on mine, I didn't have to put it in.

The couplers at that dog leg pipe and at the blower outlet are the most likely to pop and they have the least pipe surface to grab. You may wish to get T bolts, eventually.

The car will always run lean at part throttle and who cares? It doesn't necessarily indicate a problem.There is little load. Who's tune is on it? You need to do a quick WOT blast and datalog what your high load fueling is, first.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015 Thread Starter
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-Ok thanks for verifing the O ring belongs there.

-It is on the vortech tune. I am just extra cautious. Before the install it would run at 14arf at part throttle...now it gets up to 16. 2013s have a wideband o2 sensor right?

-I will set up my netbook with the livewire software and do a log.

-which parameters should I log?
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Yes, wideband 02s. p/t afrs aren't to be considered accurate, regardless nor, particularly relevant.

The Vortech tune is so "safe" it is actually dangerous in my view, long term. So much fuel washing the cylinder walls down under high load. Not surprising to see AFRs in the 10s under WOT, which is crazy rich.

Log your AFR, knock retard, ST fuel trims, for a start, Throttle position and RPM will give you a guide as to when you went WOT and a comparator for when the fueling changes were made. .

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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There is a lot more power left on the table. The Vortech tunes are safe and rich at WOT. You should go to a local tuner with experience on a 5.0 coyote. Their are so many different factory PCM calibrations, and the canned or general tune is supposed to work with all of them, but they are not optimized. My coyote automatic made 490 with Vortech tune, then 560 with a dyno tune, both on 91 pump gas.
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Call Lund or AED and start data logging. The sooner you get a custom tune, the better. I wouldn't even waste my time with the canned tune.


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-------Previously-------
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Congrats on finding the problem and happy tuning!
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