New Rims/Springs/Suspension Questions. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015 Thread Starter
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New Rims/Springs/Suspension Questions.

Alright, first time messing with my suspension (Other than BMR LCA's) and have a few questions. First off, I'm going to be ordering a set of Forgestar CF10's, 19x9 and 19x10, I'm going to be putting 255's on the front and 285's on the rear. I'm also going to be dropping the suspension about 1-1.5 inches (Just enough to get rid of the awful 4x4 look and to fill in the rest of the wheel gap from having 19's). Here is where the questions come in. With a 1.5" drop in the rear, will I have trouble fitting 285's? Should I go with 275's? I know I'll need a new Adjustable panhard bar, will I require LCA Relocation brackets? For a 1.5" drop, are camber bolts good enough? How do they hold up to track conditions? Or is 1.5" too much for bolts and plates will be required? Finally, I have Nonadjustable LCA's, will that play an issue when lowering 1.5"? I have very little knowledge of suspension modification and I'm willing to take any advice that you all have. If this set up also sounds improper let me know and give me some advice on how to tune it.

Thanks in advance!


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015
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Bolts will be fine, a little camber is always good for turning.

As for wheels, their is more than enough room in the wheel well for 285's. As long as the offset is correct on the wheel you'll have no issues.

LCA brackets.... Some people say yes, some say no. I have them with my setup due to the power I'm putting down and I can tell a difference.

Adjustable LCA's... Another some say yes, some say no.. I didn't go with them. If you look at the measurement on the geometry of lowering your car 1.5 inches I didn't see the use. If you're worried about moving your axle back less than a 1/4 inch, grab a pair.

And an adjustable Panhard bar is a must!!

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015 Thread Starter
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Bolts will be fine, a little camber is always good for turning.

As for wheels, their is more than enough room in the wheel well for 285's. As long as the offset is correct on the wheel you'll have no issues.

LCA brackets.... Some people say yes, some say no. I have them with my setup due to the power I'm putting down and I can tell a difference.

Adjustable LCA's... Another some say yes, some say no.. I didn't go with them. If you look at the measurement on the geometry of lowering your car 1.5 inches I didn't see the use. If you're worried about moving your axle back less than a 1/4 inch, grab a pair.

And an adjustable Panhard bar is a must!!

Thanks for the response! Agreed, Panhard bar I had already factored in, Just wasn't sure if I'd need to replace the LCA's that I just bought with Adjustable ones. I've also heard rumors of drops over 1" needing plates, not just bolts, so I figured I'd get some opinions before deciding on anything. Thanks again!

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015
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Originally Posted by FivePoint2TheOh View Post
Thanks for the response! Agreed, Panhard bar I had already factored in, Just wasn't sure if I'd need to replace the LCA's that I just bought with Adjustable ones. I've also heard rumors of drops over 1" needing plates, not just bolts, so I figured I'd get some opinions before deciding on anything. Thanks again!
Don't get me wrong on plates, I think the amount of adjustability can't be beat. If you have the cash go for it. I wanted a little negative camber and using the bolts still gave me that. I also know I will ultimately be going with a Air Ride setup, so buying the plates for me didn't make sense.
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Don't get me wrong on plates, I think the amount of adjustability can't be beat. If you have the cash go for it. I wanted a little negative camber and using the bolts still gave me that. I also know I will ultimately be going with a Air Ride setup, so buying the plates for me didn't make sense.
Eventually I'll be going bags as well, I was just curious if the bolts gave enough adjustment to put it back to as close to factory alignment as possible. What set up do you have on your car currently? Im also worried about my headers with it lowered (Have LT's)

2013 Sterling Gray GT/CS - |On3 Performance Twin Turbo|| E85 tuned by Sai Li||MGW Race Spec||Boss 302 Intake||Corsa GT500 Sport Exhaust||3.73 Gears|| BMR UCA||BMR LCA's|| BMR DriveShaft Loop||Shaftmasters One-Piece||19x9.5 TSW Nurburgring Gunmetal With 275/35 Goodyear SuperCar F1's||30% Tint All The Way Around|
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015
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Eventually I'll be going bags as well, I was just curious if the bolts gave enough adjustment to put it back to as close to factory alignment as possible. What set up do you have on your car currently? Im also worried about my headers with it lowered (Have LT's)
I have Ford Racing 1.5 springs all around. I also am running long tubes and have no clearence issues with them scraping.

I have a few degrees of negetive camber, but I would have requested it even if the bolts would have put it perfect.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015 Thread Starter
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I have Ford Racing 1.5 springs all around. I also am running long tubes and have no clearence issues with them scraping.

I have a few degrees of negetive camber, but I would have requested it even if the bolts would have put it perfect.
Alright thanks again for the info, I was looking into the Ford Racing "K" springs as well (1.5" drop). So I'm glad to hear it runs smoothly, are you still running stock shocks and struts or did you swap those out as well? What Im really asking is, did you just drop in Springs/Bolts/Panhard bar and call it good?

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Why not 19x10's in the front too? With the right offset they'll clear just fine and if you run 285's on all four corners you'll enjoy way better handling for only a few bucks more, plus your tires will last longer since you can rotate them all around.

What exactly are you trying to do with the car? Daily driver? Street/strip? Road course? Your driving habits will have a lot to do with the way you'll want to align it.

I'd advise against using the stock dampers with lowering springs. It'll ride like crap and you'll just end up doing it all over again to swap in better dampers.

Adj. panhard bar is definitely a good idea when lowering. Relocation brackets will help with traction, but aren't necessary.

If you decide you want a camber adjustment and are going to use bolts, please DO NOT buy the aftermarket camber bolts. They're about 2mm (iirc) smaller in diameter than the OE bolts and specify about half of the OE torque value. Not a good idea on a critical fastener. The Ford camber bolts are more expensive and you'll have to slot the strut a little bit, but you retain the full bolt diameter and torque values.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015 Thread Starter
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Why not 19x10's in the front too? With the right offset they'll clear just fine and if you run 285's on all four corners you'll enjoy way better handling for only a few bucks more, plus your tires will last longer since you can rotate them all around.

What exactly are you trying to do with the car? Daily driver? Street/strip? Road course? Your driving habits will have a lot to do with the way you'll want to align it.

I'd advise against using the stock dampers with lowering springs. It'll ride like crap and you'll just end up doing it all over again to swap in better dampers.

Adj. panhard bar is definitely a good idea when lowering. Relocation brackets will help with traction, but aren't necessary.

If you decide you want a camber adjustment and are going to use bolts, please DO NOT buy the aftermarket camber bolts. They're about 2mm (iirc) smaller in diameter than the OE bolts and specify about half of the OE torque value. Not a good idea on a critical fastener. The Ford camber bolts are more expensive and you'll have to slot the strut a little bit, but you retain the full bolt diameter and torque values.

It's a daily driver with frequent strip usage (Live about 30 minutes from 4-5 different strips and go to most all events). No particular reason for the rim set up, just wanted more tread in the rear and staggered always looks sick. However I'm not sold on any specifics yet, Only the Wheel selection (Forgestar CF10's) is set in stone, still making up my mind on the offset etc. Wouldn't rotating also depend on if you have directional tires or not as well? Like lets say I got a set of Nitto 555's I wouldn't be able to rotate them even if all the rims were the same size. Like I said in the first post, when it comes to suspension/rims etc, I'm a total noobie, so ANYthing you have to say at all is taken with open ears.

Throw anything else you have to say my way, I'd love to hear it all!

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Alright thanks again for the info, I was looking into the Ford Racing "K" springs as well (1.5" drop). So I'm glad to hear it runs smoothly, are you still running stock shocks and struts or did you swap those out as well? What Im really asking is, did you just drop in Springs/Bolts/Panhard bar and call it good?
I am still running stock struts and shocks. I knew my ultimate goal is to go air so I did want to spend the cash on swapping them for a season or two. I know that the stock springs/struts are designed to be used in a specific height range but I don't believe it's detrimental.

I don't do any road racing, or put a ton of prolonged stress on the front suspension. It all goes down to what you are trying to achieve.

I'm running 20x9 up front with a 275/35/20 and 20x11 rear with 315/35/20 rubber. I wouldn't suggest that setup unless you're putting some good hp down.

Edit: I did forget about one really good thing camber plates do. When you lower the car that much it puts a lot of stress on OE strut plates. And with that stress (due to the angle) you can hear popping when you turn. A good pair of camber plate will eliminate that from happening. It doesn't necessarily cause short term damage but anytime you put that an amount of extra force it's bound to cause early wear on parts. You can buy the GT500 tower plate and they can handle the extra stress.

Again I knew my ultimate goal would be air, and the air struts come with camber plates.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by baggyp View Post
I am still running stock struts and shocks. I knew my ultimate goal is to go air so I did want to spend the cash on swapping them for a season or two. I know that the stock springs/struts are designed to be used in a specific height range but I don't believe it's detrimental.

I don't do any road racing, or put a ton of prolonged stress on the front suspension. It all goes down to what you are trying to achieve.

I'm running 20x9 up front with a 275/35/20 and 20x11 rear with 315/35/20 rubber. I wouldn't suggest that setup unless you're putting some good hp down.

Edit: I did forget about one really good thing camber plates do. When you lower the car that much it puts a lot of stress on OE strut plates. And with that stress (due to the angle) you can hear popping when you turn. A good pair of camber plate will eliminate that from happening. It doesn't necessarily cause short term damage but anytime you put that an amount of extra force it's bound to cause early wear on parts. You can buy the GT500 tower plate and they can handle the extra stress.

Again I knew my ultimate goal would be air, and the air struts come with camber plates.
Alright, thanks again for the information. I'm more than likely sticking with a staggered setup, I've heard that Squaring larger tires can cause some under-steer and other handling problems, and rotating the tire's isn't a huge issue considering a vast majority of performance tires are directional now. As for suspension, I might just wait out the Air ride kit, the prices have been dropping and instead of spending 1k~ on a new set up only to replace it later with air ride, I could just save up the 3k and buy it outright and be done.

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Alright, thanks again for the information. I'm more than likely sticking with a staggered setup, I've heard that Squaring larger tires can cause some under-steer and other handling problems,
Nope. You've got that backwards. Staggered WILL induce understeer. Square will be much more neutral.

Some tires are directional, but there are lots of good non-directional sticky tires:

Michelin Pilot Super Sports;
Cooper RS3-S
Dunlop SP Sport Maxx

I could go on. Either way, even with a directional tire, if you go square you'll be able to rotate them F - R, just not side to side.

But, if you're only using it for street and strip and no road course, just go with staggered and don't worry about dialing in more camber. You probably won't notice the difference and you'll save a few bucks.
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Nope. You've got that backwards. Staggered WILL induce understeer. Square will be much more neutral.

Some tires are directional, but there are lots of good non-directional sticky tires:

Michelin Pilot Super Sports;
Cooper RS3-S
Dunlop SP Sport Maxx

I could go on. Either way, even with a directional tire, if you go square you'll be able to rotate them F - R, just not side to side.

But, if you're only using it for street and strip and no road course, just go with staggered and don't worry about dialing in more camber. You probably won't notice the difference and you'll save a few bucks.
I have few, to no road courses around me, and It's mainly a DD/Strip car. Rears will get pulled off for slicks during track time, so I'm really mostly interested in the DD aspect of it. Decisions decisions...

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