Pre-Storage Oil Change Opinions Please? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015 Thread Starter
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Pre-Storage Oil Change Opinions Please?

Well BadFast, my 2014 GT, goes away for the winter on Saturday morning and I am going to do an oil change Friday afternoon because I know it's a must.


My question is should I save a few bucks and go 5W-20 for it's hibernation or stick to the 5W-50. The reason I ask is I will be giving it a fresh load in the spring in any event so I'll go back to 5W-50 in April.
What are your thoughts?


Thanks in advance


Scott


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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015
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I always wondered about this. What is the point of changing the oil post-hibernation? If you do not turn the car on, the oil just sits there, just like it would in the bottle, right?

It's not like you are constantly turning it on and off and allowing contaminants to build up in the oil, without it ever reaching operating temperature.


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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015 Thread Starter
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Hi Matt, just peace of mind - the oil has been sitting there for (ugh) 4 months which is not good so.....I also tend to short it at the oil change and then dump a half litre in the top before start up....not too anal huh?


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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewr87 View Post
I always wondered about this. What is the point of changing the oil post-hibernation? If you do not turn the car on, the oil just sits there, just like it would in the bottle, right?

It's not like you are constantly turning it on and off and allowing contaminants to build up in the oil, without it ever reaching operating temperature.
The used oil is contaminated from the combustion process, and while the engine may just be sitting in storage, condensation mixes with those contaminants, and form acids.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015
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Ahh I see. Would that still hold for a fresh oil change right before storage?

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015
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as long as you have 5W-50 in there before any hard core race track use, you should be fine
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015
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Quote:
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The used oil is contaminated from the combustion process, and while the engine may just be sitting in storage, condensation mixes with those contaminants, and form acids.
Well in that case, why not no oil?

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015
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Storing a vehicle for a moderate length of time with a relatively fresh change of oil won't hurt anything. Yes, combustion by-products do form acids in the oil and it can be detrimental to the engine. However, any decent oil will have an additive package that will neutralize any acids that may form.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015
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If mine would be due for a change during storage I would change it before otherwise I would wait till it's due. My guess is OP changes often (early) and it ain't needed but if it helps him sleep better.

on topic my low mileage toy is changed on time based intervals...I do 9 months instead of the 12 months the OLM suggests. This is 4 in 3 yrs rather than 3. It helps me sleep.
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Couple things... in my opinion no need to change to fresh oil just to store a car... especially if you plan to change oil again come spring. Solid waste of money with zero real benefit imo. If youre worried about the oil sitting all winter and having a rough start up you may as well just swap the oil while its in storage right before you start it up for spring. 5w50 is too thick in my opinion and ford only makes the recommendation for track pack cars under the assumption that they will be abused on the track so the thicker oil will be more resistant to higher oil temperatures when pushing the engine hard. It does not circulate as well through the engine in some cases... especially under docile driving conditions.

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Put the car in your garage, hang the keys up, grab them in the spring and go drive your car. A car sitting for 3-4 months is not going to do anything to it. The "WORST" thing that "might" happen is your battery is drained, but even that is unlikely. If you are worried about it, put a battery tender on the battery.

Today's chemicals, engines, fluids, tires, etc are all substantially better than they were 30+ years ago when people came up with these "storage" methods. For cars today, there just wastes of money and time.

Storing a car is putting it away for years, not a couple months.

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Quote:
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Put the car in your garage, hang the keys up, grab them in the spring and go drive your car. A car sitting for 3-4 months is not going to do anything to it. The "WORST" thing that "might" happen is your battery is drained, but even that is unlikely. If you are worried about it, put a battery tender on the battery.

Today's chemicals, engines, fluids, tires, etc are all substantially better than they were 30+ years ago when people came up with these "storage" methods. For cars today, there just wastes of money and time.

Storing a car is putting it away for years, not a couple months.
I think you're SPOT ON!!!


AT 55.......it occurs to me I've store at least one car and often more than one each winter for 30 years plus now. (three-four cars in each of the past 10+ years)


Fact is I've never had an oil related problem or for that matter a gasoline related problem.


Rather than oil......... the battery. If your car will sit for more than a month chances are you'll have to either start the car a run it in place or better still.....throw a charger on it. Cars without a computer I remove the battery and put in my basement on a shelf. .......and then anti freeze.......I always make sure it's within it's lifespan on cars I've owned long enough to worry about it. It gets cold here New Hampshire. Last winter we saw a couple of -11 degree nights......God forbid you have old weak anti freeze when those nights happen.


The single biggest worry I have is rodents. Little critters can create real havoc and they are potentially very destructive.


I generally change oil and clean the cars really well inside and out. Fortunately I have the space to get them all indoors out of the weather and covers are not necessary. But oil changes before storage is just the best time to do it because most of these cars see an oil change just once a year now that we have access to such higher quality synthetics vs the past ......and since the mileage on all them is relatively low each year.....more than once a year seems incredibly wasteful.


For longer term proof of effectiveness. I have one car that seems to tell the story. A older Corvette with a mechanical Holley Carb is certainly going to inject far more contamination into it's oil than anything modern with computer controlled engine management and injection. Yet the now over 20 year old crate motor with approximately 35,000 miles accumulated on it still runs well and burns through no oil between changes that I can detect.


this all leads me to agree with the post above...... any car parked for just a few months isn't really "in storage" long enough to worry about much.


IMO.....Real effort is required if a car will be stored for a years...not -so-much for mere months at a time. An older Camaro that I parked in a barn for 10 years.......that was tough. Getting it out and ready for sale required real effort after so many years stored. A still really good looking car needed lots of TLC and real effort to get it ready to sell without worries of problems during potential new owner test drives.

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Quote:
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The single biggest worry I have is rodents. Little critters can create real havoc and they are potentially very destructive.
If you're worried about rodents get a couple cats, my dad has worked lawncare for over 20 years in Minnesota and stores his work trucks in the winter and has always kept 2-3 cats around. Cats never harm any equipment and they take care of rodents that do. We haven't seen a mouse or rat in years.
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I know I'm late to the party but, I'd do 5-20. More than anything your just getting the contaminants out of the old oil. No need in putting performance oil back in if you're just going to dump it out in the spring.

Theirs also the argument that you could do a full on oil change and just drive it come spring, but I just get the $20 coupon jobber and change it come nice weather.
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