How Much HP Should I Have? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015 Thread Starter
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How Much HP Should I Have?

I have a 2014 GT, which I know has a base HP of 420, but I have added a BBK CAI, Roush catback exhaust and a new BAMA performance tune. I am also running regular unleaded gas. How much HP can I expect from this setup? I am also thinking about adding shorty headers sometime in the future.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015
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440ish flywheel...probably 400 wheel. Maybe. No way to know for sure short of doing a before/after dyno.

Skip the shorties. The car comes with shorties. Long tubes or bust on the coyote.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015 Thread Starter
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Ok thanks man, pretty sure it doesn't come with headers stock...
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015
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Originally Posted by trayoder View Post
Ok thanks man, pretty sure it doesn't come with headers stock...
Yes it does. You must be racing someone with the mods you listed.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015
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Sorry boys.....But if the OP IS running "Regular" YUK!! Crap gas (Either 87-89 R+M~2, Then that Coyote's Copperhead PCM IS Yanking a Boatload of Timing out of any "Correctly" written Tune (God forbid they changed the Crank Rotation to Knock sensor Timing Algorithm" (But I Would bet BAMA would NOT screw with that) But OTHERS HAVE! and from there they have turned their Coyote 5.0's into Hand Grenades with the PIN REMOVED!!........Why on Earth (Especially with Fuel prices so low!) Would You Run ANYTHING OTHER Than 93 Octane (91 in Cali, But they can NOW GET VP 100 AND Sunoco GT 100 Octane (Right At The Pump!) there in Cali now too!!)

420 Stock HP. 11.0:1 Compression Ratio With Sintered Iron Con Rods! And Running ANYTHING LOWER than 91 Octane is a Sin! (If you read the "Fine Print" Ford states that the '11-'12 GT HP Rating of 412 and the '13-'14 GT Rating WAS achieved with "PREMIUM" 93 Octane!.....I very well know that you can run a Coyote on regular (Again YUCK!) But alls it takes is 1 bad tank of that crap, while you are hammering that Loud Pedal, on a nice HOT day.....And you run the chances of "Ventilating" that Block with one of those Connecting Rods! Or if you have a Preignition at about 5,500 RPM's You run a good chance of "Shattering" one of your Hypereutectic Slugs! Either way, it will be YOU buying the new Engine, Cause Ford WILL most definitely say it was "Not a Ford Tune, So please go to the window and order a $6,000.00 engine for us to replace ".

If you can afford a Stang with a 5.0......Then why not feed her the very best juice?!.....I mean heck I run NOTHING but VP MS-109 in My Girl in the Summer! And with the "Adaptive Timing" that the Copperhead software runs (It adds Timing until it detects a "Knock" Event, then it pulls Timing within 1/2 of a Crankshaft Rotation!.....But the HIGHER the Octane you run (Even with a FRPP Tune) it will add timing down low for all that Extra Torque from 1,500 RPM's to 4,000 RPM's!.......Time to get that Girl off of "Ripple" and give her at least a nice "Chardonnay" ... i.e a Tier 1 fuel (93 Octane from, Global, BP, SHELL, Sunoco)

Just sayin......

Oh and Yes the Coyote comes with Shortie Headers (They are very similar to "Tri-Y's" (Because of the old time Firing Order that Ford went back to...Yep the Coyote 5.0 has the Same Firing Order as the Old Flat-Head V8 had!!.....This is why a lot of Peeps think that the 4.6's (Regardless of how Many Valves they had!) .......I for one know my '08 GT-500 sounded better then my Coyote does......Hell sometimes I even think that my 2010 GT 3V sounded better!....But their are just as many that say the 32V TiVCT Coyote sounds better also!.......

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015
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If this is not a shorty header, I don't know what is.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trayoder View Post
Ok thanks man, pretty sure it doesn't come with headers stock...
Not full length headers, but it comes from the factory with shorty headers.

Get to know your Coyote. The factory shorty was implicitly designed to function with this engine. There is a great pic at the link below. But if you pop the hood on your car, you will see the same thing. What the article doesn't mention is that the bean counters at Ford almost nixed the shorty headers due to cost. Glad that didn't happen.

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About the Coyote Powerplant

The replies above are correct. You can see substantial gains by adding long tubes though. But aftermarket shorties will do nothing for you.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015
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Be careful what BAMA tune you run if you are only putting in 87...

Personally I agree with Sean. I put in 93 every fill up even when my 2011 5.0 was bone stock. If you read the factory manual it is what Ford recommends anytime you are driving any other way other than a 90 year old person in a hybrid.... Which only maybe 1% of Mustang owners do and maybe .05% of forum members do. So my advice along with everyone else's your next fill up should be 93. If it isn't please refrain from asking questions like what is my HP with X mods as with 87 it doesn't matter as it isn't the best your car can do and it is actually bad for a modded motor when even the stock motor recommends 93.

Just my .02 and opinion....

Also on a side note be on the listen/look out for the PING PING PING noise because it is only a matter of time if you are modding and hot rodding around on 87... With that said it is like mentioned above with a tune and the mods you have factory warranty has left the building at this point.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015
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I assume your question has more to do with curiosity than anything else. You didn't say which BAMA tune you had, hopefully it's their 87 octane tune and not one designed for 91 or higher. Personally I don't have any problem with running 87 on a show room stock Coyote in everyday driving, but even show room stock if I know I am going to hammer on it I run at least 91 in order to prevent any possibility of detonation. The Ford track key is fairly conservative as tunes go and even they require a minimum of 91 octane. As for the horsepower numbers, well the only numbers that really count are time slips/lap times. If you put the car on a dyno make sure you ask what correction factor was used. Every dyno/operator uses a correction factor to equalize variables such as temp.,humidity and altitude/barometric pressure. The hot rod industry loves to use the old correction factor used by the factories in the '50's & '60's since it gives more impressive numbers. If you can get to a drag strip make at least three passes and average your trap speeds. ET has more to do with the chassis set up, trap speed is horsepower. You will also need an accurate weight for your car with you in it as raced. There are plenty of horsepower calculators online you can use to find your horsepower. Here is one using my own car as an example. Weight with driver and 1/2 a tank of gas = 3725 lbs. Trap speed 111 mph. Trap speed divided by 234 [ a constant ] = .4743589. .4743589 cubed = .1067385. .1067385 x 3725 [ weight ] = 397.6 HP.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trayoder View Post
I have a 2014 GT, which I know has a base HP of 420, but I have added a BBK CAI, Roush catback exhaust and a new BAMA performance tune. I am also running regular unleaded gas. How much HP can I expect from this setup? I am also thinking about adding shorty headers sometime in the future.
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Like stated above buy an economy car if you want to run 87-89 fuel. I run 101 octane (not a daily) with tuning to support the octane. I have zero knock from hit to 7500 rpms @ 31 plus degrees timing . Torque is plenty for a n/a 302.

Running an offroad midpipe with good flowing (straight through design) axle back will give you 80-85% the gains of longtube headers without the cost and hassle. Ford spent some coin and time designing these tri y designed stainless, tuned, and tubular headers. If you want to spend 1200-2000 plus including labor for 5-12 hp gain suit yourself.

Good luck and enjoy.

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