2013 with "bbq tick" questions..... - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016 Thread Starter
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2013 with "bbq tick" questions.....

I've read so many threads on this that my head hurts, but I've never been too concerned about the noise. I just figured it was the nature of the beast, but reports of short block changes etc. does get my attention. I guess I have been conditioned to tune out noises from my ownership of GM products with piston slap, and a myriad of sport bikes with noisey inline 4 cylinder engines in a high state of tune. My car has a little over 29k, is modded, and gets driven, not abused, but not babied around either. It has the inconsistent tick that does indeed have a little snap or pop like a grill ignitor. I can live with the noise, but if is something that could lead to a catastrophic failure I will have the car looked at asap. The car performs great and I love it, I don't want anyone monkeying with it unless I absolutely have to. I had a fob programmed a few weeks back at the dealership and the shop guys were all swooning over the car like a bunch of horny teenagers looking at a hot cheerleader, so I can envision the "road test" it would get. It is under warranty but is also modded. Has anyone just lived with the noise and drove the car and posted results? It isn't a lowend knock or anything, or I'd be at the dealership right now. But I am curious as to if there are any relatively high mileage "tickers" out there?


2013 GT Premium, 6M, 3.73s, Brembo pkg., Steeda CAI, Cat Delete, X-Pipe, Mystery Tune?, GT500 AB, Barton Short Throw Shifter and Mount, Whiteline Trans Bushing, SR Braided clutch line w/ heat shield, JLT Oil Separator, 20% tint, Niche wheels.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016
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I have the same tick right after she warms up. It goes away after I drive it , I've been reading on this as well and some guys eliminate the sound by using a different weight/brand oil. Not too sure why, would love for someone to chime in with real data.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016 Thread Starter
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I have read so much about it, but nothing definitive at all. Guys getting engine swaps, only for the tick to reappear in the new engine? I'd rather not go through that but I'm still curious about it. Mine runs like a beast, no real oil consumption to speak of, and as I have stated, gets driven like a mustang should. Not carelessly abused and thrashed.

2013 GT Premium, 6M, 3.73s, Brembo pkg., Steeda CAI, Cat Delete, X-Pipe, Mystery Tune?, GT500 AB, Barton Short Throw Shifter and Mount, Whiteline Trans Bushing, SR Braided clutch line w/ heat shield, JLT Oil Separator, 20% tint, Niche wheels.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016
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I have yet to hear of an actual failure that was certain to be related to the BBQ tick, yet have read of many who have it and just keep driving. Ford has yet to sort this one out and I wonder if the couple of short block replacements I have heard of were actually for this precise tick. I believe 2013GTBBQ on here recently did get an engine replacement only to have the tick in the new engine too.

What I did read some time back was a couple of accounts on other forums of changing the oil to Pennz Platinum made it go away. But it's the internet so believe what you wish. I don't have tick but one thing I have been anal about is changing my own oil and always pre filling the oil filter as much as possible. Then I crank the engine a few times with out actually starting it to get the oil passages filled up before starting. I use Motorcraft 5w-20 semi synthetic with the FL500S filter. I don't know if any of this helps and logic tells me it should not make any difference with respect to the tick, but so far it's working for me.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input Steve. Nice move on prefilling the filter.

2013 GT Premium, 6M, 3.73s, Brembo pkg., Steeda CAI, Cat Delete, X-Pipe, Mystery Tune?, GT500 AB, Barton Short Throw Shifter and Mount, Whiteline Trans Bushing, SR Braided clutch line w/ heat shield, JLT Oil Separator, 20% tint, Niche wheels.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016
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The mechanics around these parts say move to the factory recommended oil weight for extreme hot weather conditions. That 5 or zero weight is for gas mileage purposes, and nobody drives only under "normal" conditions.

I've got a 2005 GT with only 22,800 miles, but it is tick free, so I run synthetic 10/30 to keep it that way, and I live in Florida where it doesn't get cold enough to even need the 10/ part.


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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016
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Op, try putting in a bottle of hyperlube zinc replacement additive into your oil. I swear by this stuff. I actually run 2 bottles, ford racing oil filter, and the 5-20w ford semi at every oil change. I have the tech prefill the filter and prime the oil system (gas pedal and brake to floor at ignition 4-5 seconds) before start up. Car uses zero oil and motor is as quiet (mechanically) as a mouse fart. Been using this zinc replacement since 3k miles and car now has just over 8k now. KetJenLube 135 is the cats ass. Research it. Good luck.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016 Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the input guys, I do appreciate it. Looking at the tsb it says if engine build date is on or before 11/10/2011, my car is a 2013 and the tag says mfg date of 12/12? Is 12/12 December of 2012 or what? How do you know when your engine was built. I know this has all been beat to death but in all my reading I haven't saw anything on how to decipher mfg date, or how to determine engine build date?

2013 GT Premium, 6M, 3.73s, Brembo pkg., Steeda CAI, Cat Delete, X-Pipe, Mystery Tune?, GT500 AB, Barton Short Throw Shifter and Mount, Whiteline Trans Bushing, SR Braided clutch line w/ heat shield, JLT Oil Separator, 20% tint, Niche wheels.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016
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I've now had the tick for 10,000 miles on my 14, have driven it hard after including multiple track runs, no issues and the car is my daily driver in heavy D.C. area traffic. The noise sometimes goes away completely, sometimes comes back.....but I am now convinced it is not going to lead to engine failure.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zinc03svt View Post
Op, try putting in a bottle of hyperlube zinc replacement additive into your oil. I swear by this stuff. I actually run 2 bottles, ford racing oil filter, and the 5-20w ford semi at every oil change. I have the tech prefill the filter and prime the oil system (gas pedal and brake to floor at ignition 4-5 seconds) before start up. Car uses zero oil and motor is as quiet (mechanically) as a mouse fart. Been using this zinc replacement since 3k miles and car now has just over 8k now. KetJenLube 135 is the cats ass. Research it. Good luck.
Has there been any negative effects in regards to the proper operation of the VVT system in these engines when using these zinc additives.

2005 black GT premium (5spd) / GT500 front LCA/upper strut mounts / Koni Adjustable (yellow)shocks with Roush Springs / FRPP 4:10 rear gear / BMR rear UCA/LCA+relocation brackets / MGW Shifter / Bassani axle backs / Cervinis heat extractor hood and Ducktail spoiler / Carroll Shelby CS69 20x9/20x10 wheels / MSD Blaster 2 coils / Roush TVS2300 Supercharger+Brenspeed 560R upgrade / Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch / Exedy lightweight flywheel / SR Performance braided stainless clutch Line / Afco Dual Fan Heat Exchanger upgrade / JLT Catch Can / Axle Exchange one piece aluminum DS / Silly grin on my face every time I turn the key.
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I use Hyper Lube along with Mobil 1 5W30 2011 GT,Runs great NO ticks or noise in my engine,also use a Fram XG10575 oil filter.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfoot_Rick View Post
Thanks again for the input guys, I do appreciate it. Looking at the tsb it says if engine build date is on or before 11/10/2011, my car is a 2013 and the tag says mfg date of 12/12? Is 12/12 December of 2012 or what? How do you know when your engine was built. I know this has all been beat to death but in all my reading I haven't saw anything on how to decipher mfg date, or how to determine engine build date?
It is MM/YY. Mine is a 2005, and my door pillar sticker says MFG DATE 04/05, which is April of 2005, so yes, your car was built in December 2012. The engine build date is the same, since the lines run simultaneously. Not sure where to find the engine build DAY date.

Most, about 80% of all cars of a given model year are built during the preceding year, and for most American builders the production year runs from June to June with the last couple of months at a reduced rate while the plant is re-tooled.


130 total pounds of Pitbull ruled by 8 pounds of cat.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016 Thread Starter
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This forum is a GREAT resource!

2013 GT Premium, 6M, 3.73s, Brembo pkg., Steeda CAI, Cat Delete, X-Pipe, Mystery Tune?, GT500 AB, Barton Short Throw Shifter and Mount, Whiteline Trans Bushing, SR Braided clutch line w/ heat shield, JLT Oil Separator, 20% tint, Niche wheels.
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I have had a very subdued tick since day one. Noticed it on my test drive but only after raising the hood. The tick is only noticeable with my window down while driving next to a barrier slowly, so it is a non-issue for me. Built 12/12 with regular oil changes. Great cars and lots of fun on an empty highway!

1964.5 convertible and a 2012 Sterling Grey GT. 100 hp. and 412 hp. Go Bama, Roll Tide! 2015 National Champions! Clemson put up one heck of a fight!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfoot_Rick View Post
This forum is a GREAT resource!
Enjoy your car and drive the hell out of it, the tick will not hurt the engine.


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