new shocks 4 factory suspension - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016 Thread Starter
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new shocks 4 factory suspension

Going to replace the tires next month on my '13 GT automatic with 24,000 miles.

It's a daily driver and I do not want to compromise ride comfort at all.

I don't need to do the ever popular lowering thing, as I'm not doing track days.

At 24,000 miles is it too early for rear shocks/front struts?

Anyone out there who has replaced the shocks/struts while maintaining the factory springs/swaybars/links who can share their experience?

THANKS MUCH !

RWSRWS

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016
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Yes, it's too early IMO.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016
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I use to replace shocks with OEM replacements on my DD. (not a Mustang) They would last around 50k miles. Over the years though Ford has changed suppliers and around 40k they either leak or have poor ride control. I would keep an eye on yours as I think most manufacturers just try to save money. Look to an after market supplier with a good warranty.


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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016
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I think it depends on how the cars riding. I've had shocks go at 90k miles and shocks go at 20k miles. If any corner is starting to sag, or you feel a rumble and/or hesitance with the shocks/struts then it seems appropriate to change them.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016
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I have a Brembo '14 and when it comes to it, I will definitely reuse stock springs and just shock it up. Good tires and shocks will make a world of difference, especially on a non-Brembo car. The road here aren't awesome and lowering is a lot more about looks than performance. Lowering a Macstrut equipped car can actually make it handle worse, particularly in the rain, even if done correctly, as you take away some range of suspension action when you do this and requires high spring rates to compensate. Race cars deal with this by changing the suspension geometry but, that's not feasible on the road and the road is no racetrack.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMVoigt View Post
I think it depends on how the cars riding. I've had shocks go at 90k miles and shocks go at 20k miles. If any corner is starting to sag, or you feel a rumble and/or hesitance with the shocks/struts then it seems appropriate to change them.
shocks don't cause sag. Springs do. If a shock is bad the car will keep bouncing after a bump because there is nothing to dampen that motion from the spring.

OP the best thing to do if keeping the stock springs is just upgrade to koni str.t shocks and struts. It will improve your ride while keeping costs down. you shouldn't need new ones this early though. If would want then best I would go with bilstien but its $$$$

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016
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I have driven a few thousand miles on new shocks while waiting for order screwups and a long weekend to install new upgrades. That being said 24,000 miles should be too early for struts and tires. My factory Pirellis lasted 60k miles with a 90 mile day commute at 31-32 psi on my 2011 and 55k miles on my 2012. It was at about 35-40k miles that I replaced my struts on both partially because of the disgust I have with the stock mustang suspension and partly what I could get away with spending at one time under my wife's eagle eyes.

In my opinion if you were to replace your shocks I would wait until May or June when Koni puts their shocks on sale and buy a set of Sport yellows with a set of Maximum Motorsports or Steeda Caster/Camber plates. This is the most solid advice you are going to get. Approximately $1100 in parts for the greatest value.

It may be tempting to go a cheaper route but the only reasonably priced dampers for our cars with good quality are Koni and Bilstein.
It may be tempting to go a cheaper route but the only reasonably priced dampers for our cars with good quality are Koni and Bilstien.
It may be tempting to go a cheaper route but the only reasonably priced dampers for our cars with good quality are Koni and Bilstein.

Everything else contains a compromise of some sort despite the claims. The same applies to your mounting points. New plates will aide in maintenance of your new tires and are far superior to the below average stock plates or the average "upgraded" Ford Racing GT500 mounts. Both of the later will eventually start making popping sounds under the hood.

I have had the the koni yellows (sport) , the koni oranges (strt), the non adjustable ford racing (Tokico?), and stock dampers. I have not had the Bilsteins and have only experienced them in others rides. The only problem being unless the springs are the same it isn't a legit comparison.

Good luck to you.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWSRWS View Post
Going to replace the tires next month on my '13 GT automatic with 24,000 miles.

It's a daily driver and I do not want to compromise ride comfort at all.

I don't need to do the ever popular lowering thing, as I'm not doing track days.

At 24,000 miles is it too early for rear shocks/front struts?

Anyone out there who has replaced the shocks/struts while maintaining the factory springs/swaybars/links who can share their experience?

THANKS MUCH !

RWSRWS
The OE shocks & struts may not be far enough gone to actually require replacement, but that doesn't mean there's no benefit in upgrading them either.

I replaced the OE shocks & struts at somewhere around 15,000 miles, mostly because I tend to drive the corners a bit harder than most. Went with Koni yellows, and I have different settings depending on whether I'm out on a road course (more than a full turn up from full soft), just driving myself around town (a bit less than a full turn), or if my wife is along for more than just a few miles (only a little bit up from full soft). The difference in ride quality is significant between any two of those settings, the softest is comparable to OE and I think actually a bit better over short sharp bumps such as railroad tracks and expansion joints on concrete pavement. Yes, I track this car on its OE springs.

Now I did swap both sta-bars and the front endlinks, but could have done that separately and it's not like stiffer bars need much more added in the way of damping. Not that it's a bad thing to upgrade the endlinks if you're even thinking about swapping the bars at a later date.


I don't ever actually count on getting more than maybe 30,000 miles out of any set of tires, from new to into the wear bars. Generally, I wouldn't want tires that sacrifice enough grip to be guaranteed any more miles than that.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (the "family sedan")
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (the spare and occasional winter driver)
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016
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theres not point in buying the yellows if youre not going to track the car. you don't need the adjustability of the yellows. koni str.t or get the best which is bilstien. I have bilstien on my 5.0 now and I had koni str.t on my 11 v6. ive driven my friends 5.0 with koni yellows and my bilsteins are way better feeling.. we had the same springs too.

also if you are keeping the stock springs there absolutely no reason to get caster camber plates.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016 Thread Starter
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WOW !

Thanks for all the replies.

Except now, I'm more confused.

It's tire time!

While I'm doing the tires, and possibly an alignment (although the factory Pirelli all seasons are wearing perfectly) it seemed like a good idea to consider upgrading the shocks/struts.

I have NO INTENTION of tracking this car, and remain unconvinced regarding the need to lower it.

Therefore I will be retaining the STOCK SUSPENSION.

I want to maintain or increase the quality of the cars behavior as a DD and for the occasional road trip.

So the question still is........ to re-shock/strut or not?

Koni, Gabriel, Monroe, Brand X whatever......

Or simply do the new tires and leave the factory shocks alone for another 25,000 miles.

Caster camber plates necessary/advisable when not lowering the car?

Thank you all for your experience and advice.

RWSRWS
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You don't have to be tracking your car to appreciate the ability to dial in an amount of damping that suits you, either individually or with passengers, better.


Sure, if you're OK with the stock -0.75° camber settings there isn't much need for getting camber adjustability. Then again, I can't think of any mod that's absolutely necessary, but people do them anyway.




Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (the "family sedan")
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (the spare and occasional winter driver)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWSRWS View Post
It's tire time!

While I'm doing the tires, and possibly an alignment (although the factory Pirelli all seasons are wearing perfectly) it seemed like a good idea to consider upgrading the shocks/struts.
This will either end up a thread all its own or double the size of this one , , , starting with what size wheels you have and what tire sizes you may be considering. But FWIW it's going to be awfully hard to top Michelin's Pilot Super Sport for dry or wet situations and temperatures above maybe 45°F.

Quote:
I have NO INTENTION of tracking this car, and remain unconvinced regarding the need to lower it.
Lowering is not necessary even if you do track your car. The performance improvements do not keep pace with the change in appearance - IOW it may look a lot better to lots of folks but the cornering won't improve by the same amount.


FWIW, I didn't start out expecting to track my car even though I was planning from the get-go to make it better at cornering generally. On-ramps up to maybe an occasional autocross.


Quote:
I want to maintain or increase the quality of the cars behavior as a DD and for the occasional road trip.

So the question still is........ to re-shock/strut or not?

Koni, Gabriel, Monroe, Brand X whatever......


Or simply do the new tires and leave the factory shocks alone for another 25,000 miles.
Unless the car is starting to feel a little 'float-y' or they're still kind of harsh when the rear wheels go over a bump, you probably don't have to. Gabriels, Monroes, Tokicos, and Brand X are what I might put on a car that I was planning on getting rid of in the near future, which leaves Koni and Bilstein.

Quote:
Caster camber plates necessary/advisable when not lowering the car?
Probably not, though in some cases the adjustability can be used to get both sides closer to the same readings. I'll make a pitch for Steeda's HD strut mounts here, as they are also adjustable for camber and there's a chance that the OE strut mounts may come apart on removal making you need the strut mounts anyway. There is some pickiness among car years, strut years, and these mounts that you have to keep straight, but it's not all that complicated.




Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (the "family sedan")
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (the spare and occasional winter driver)
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016 Thread Starter
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Thank you for all the responses.

The car currently has factory 19" wheels and as such came with the strut tower brace.

At this moment she's wearing 245/45 R19 Pirelli all season tires.

Will probably go with the Michelin Pilots or Continentals, but based on what I have learned here, the Pilots make more sense.

Assuming I run 25,000 on the next set of tires perhaps I should change the shocks/struts then, but if I do it now I will get to enjoy the improved ride/handling/fun for the next 25,000 miles...... see how easily we justify these things.

So, y'all think for a DD, I'd be wasting my time and $$ on the Monroes - no improvement over stock and should "Pony Up" (no pun intended) and go with the Konis, Bilsteins or something similar?

RWSRWS

2013 GT Premium Coupe - white (auto) 3-M Crystalline,factory 19”wheels, black rocker stripe/heat extractors, redline leather armrests & console Silverhorse qtr windows Polk & Infinity speakers,DYNAMAT EXTREMEGT500 A-backs
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2 Fctry Supercharged still own
1938 Studebaker President still own
1969 Mustang Coupe, 302 Blue (sold 1978)
1966 Aurora Thunderjet 2+2 Fastback - yellow w/red stripes (owned since age 9)
1968 HOT WHEELS Redline Mustang 2+2 Gold-owned since age 11
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If you have the money, get bilstiens, if not then get the koni str.t...... you don't need camber plates, you don't need adjustability of koni yellows.. that will end up driving your crazy. You will be changing the settings everyday second guessing what felt better or worse. Bilstiens feel awesome though, just make sure you get the ones for your year model.

with all suspension mods in the front, and alignment is a good idea but It shouldn't be necessary since the stock mounts cant adjust and the toe shouldn't be changing with a strut change.

2014 Black 5.0 Track Pack with to many mods.
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Never assume that any replacement suspension component will measure exactly the same as the old part you took off. Everything man-made has tolerances, and the reassembly process can stack these tolerances up a little differently than they were before even if the new parts actually were dimensionally identical to the old ones. The new results may still be "within spec", but that's not the same as "same as before" (which in OP's case seems to be in a pretty good place for his driving).


RWS - you should find out at least what your car's camber and toe settings are before you start any strut replacement job. If you have a flat setup area, there are a number of ways to DIY the measurements and determine these settings.


Norm


'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (the "family sedan")
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (the spare and occasional winter driver)
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