2013 Boss with a few issues. (Newly purchased) Would love help!! - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016 Thread Starter
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Question 2013 Boss with a few issues. (Newly purchased) Would love help!!

I just bought a 2013 Boss last night 2/15/16 with 34,500 miles. It was in rainy/foggy weather when I picked it up from out of town. I noticed something odd with the clutch on the test drive, but with the bad weather couldn't really test it out. After reading around online google searches man do I wish I would have found all the info before buying...

I got on it for the first time today going to lunch and experienced heavy clutch when shifting 1-2 and 2-3 at high RPM's (Not redline). Then experienced clutch hanging when going from 2-3. Lastly experienced the lockout as discussed going from 1-2 and 2-3. Haven't really done many over 3 gear high RPM shifts yet, as I am just learning the car and also not a great place to do that around here.

What I am understanding after all my reading is replacing under warranty with Ford replacement parts will not "really fix" the issue and what it does fix will come back shortly. Modding the car with better aftermarket parts is the only way to go. If that is the case CRAP! I bought the car thinking it would be a awesome ready to go car and need nothing for a few years when I am ready to start playing around at the track... Seems a lot of my issues are not only widespread I believe for the Boss, but also 13-14 GT's with track packs and Torsen diffs.

Also I hear a (for lack of better way to describe it) constant shhhhhhhhhhhhhh sound coming from the back of the car. Can be heard from 1mph to anything faster and doesn't seem to get louder as it is no noise when stopped and right when you start moving, it starts the shhhhhhhhhhhhhh sound. It doesn't change when in neutral moving, doesn't change if car is off while rolling, just if car is in motion the shhhhhhhhhhhhhh noise is there. If in between buildings and windows down, it can really be heard. Sounds almost like brake pads hanging, but I am 99.9% sure it is not that. From searching online I find people say it is the differential and is "normal". I did find on one site the owners diff was replaced, but other than that one case, most say it is normal for the car. Just wondering is it?

To sum this post up:
Issue #1 Clutch heavy when above 4-5K RPM'S and shifting.
Issue #2 Clutch sticking when shifting in high RPM's.
Issue #3 Lockout when shifting in high RPM's and fast.
Issue #4 A odd shhhhhhhhhhh sound coming from rear of car.

Any advice and direction would be greatly appreciated.


Current Garage
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Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016
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an aftermarket clutch and an mgw race spec shifter should fix all of that.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016
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ML, it's not endemic for all 13-14's. I have 2x 2014's with the Track Package options and neither of them have ANY of those issues. I've driven several others, and none of them have your issues either. That being said; it doesn't seem to be unheard of either. I've read a few posts on various boards that report every issue you too are having.

1 & 2 - Some people have reported improvement and up to complete fix with flushing out the old clutch fluid, installing stainless steel lines, and refilling with DOT4 fluid. I'm skeptical about this but it may be worth a try. I personally believe you need a better clutch assembly. Better as in aftermarket.

3 - See 1 & 2 + I also believe a better shifter would help with this. I think yor car has had some hard miles, and the stock shifter was banged on hard when the previous owner was fighting the clutch issues. It's a remote shifter and probably got some wear.

4 - Could be UCA/LCA's with hard bushings transfering noise, but I would definitely investigate the possibility of brake or bearing issues.

I see you live in NC. I'm in Charlotte (not sure where you are) you're welcomed to contact me if you want to drive mine for comparison. If you bought from a dealer (I think you said so) and they're decent, reach out and see if they will offer any help at all.

I really wanted a BOSS when I bought my daily driver, but every car I found was either "Rode Hard, and put up wet", or never driven at all, and to damned expensive for a used car. It seems that BOSS's are either beat on or babied. Neither of which fit my needs. I think you're going to possibly need to invest a little more into the car, and then have a great ride.

DISCLAIMER:

These are just my personal thoughts. Turn off your flamethrowers and move along, there's nothing to see here.


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Last edited by crjackson2134; 02-17-2016 at 12:11 PM.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016
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1&2 are not problems with the factory clutch design. Maybe check to see if your clutch helper spring has been removed? That will give the pedal a heavy feel. I would lean towards thinking the clutch needs to be bled (just pump the pedal a couple hundred times) or that the previous owner didn't know how to drive and broke stuff, in which case you'll need to drop the tranny and see what's up. As much as people love to hate the MT82 and stock clutches and stock clutch lines....it's really all fine if you know how to shift. pew pew pew, I know.

On 3, you're experiencing the wonders of the remote-mounting shifter. MGW race spec is the best solution. If you want to spend around $100 instead, get a whiteline crossmember bushing insert and a rear shifter bracket.

4 is either "you have a torsen" or "you have worn out bearings." Could be carrier or axle bearings. At 34k miles, I'd be surprised if it was either. Look at your UCA and see if it's stock or aftermarket. The aftermarket ones invariably transmit more noise to the cabin. Could be incorrect pinion depth as well, but I'd think you'd get more of a whine from that.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csamsh View Post
1&2 are not problems with the factory clutch design. Maybe check to see if your clutch helper spring has been removed? That will give the pedal a heavy feel. I would lean towards thinking the clutch needs to be bled (just pump the pedal a couple hundred times) or that the previous owner didn't know how to drive and broke stuff, in which case you'll need to drop the tranny and see what's up. As much as people love to hate the MT82 and stock clutches and stock clutch lines....it's really all fine if you know how to shift. pew pew pew, I know.

On 3, you're experiencing the wonders of the remote-mounting shifter. MGW race spec is the best solution. If you want to spend around $100 instead, get a whiteline crossmember bushing insert and a rear shifter bracket.

4 is either "you have a torsen" or "you have worn out bearings." Could be carrier or axle bearings. At 34k miles, I'd be surprised if it was either. Look at your UCA and see if it's stock or aftermarket. The aftermarket ones invariably transmit more noise to the cabin. Could be incorrect pinion depth as well, but I'd think you'd get more of a whine from that.
+1
Well stated.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016
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Is the car still under warranty or past the 36 month limit. If it is still under warranty I would take it in to the dealer and go from there with your fingers crossed.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpenguin69 View Post
an aftermarket clutch and an mgw race spec shifter should fix all of that.
I just hate to put more money in a very expensive car I just bought so soon. You know?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crjackson2134 View Post
ML, it's not endemic for all 13-14's. I have 2x 2014's with the Track Package options and neither of them have ANY of those issues. I've driven several others, and none of them have your issues either. That being said; it doesn't seem to be unheard of either. I've read a few posts on various boards that report every issue you too are having.

1 & 2 - Some people have reported improvement and up to complete fix with flushing out the old clutch fluid, installing stainless steel lines, and refilling with DOT4 fluid. I'm skeptical about this but it may be worth a try. I personally believe you need a better clutch assembly. Better as in aftermarket.

3 - See 1 & 2 + I also believe a better shifter would help with this. I think yor car has had some hard miles, and the stock shifter was banged on hard when the previous owner was fighting the clutch issues. It's a remote shifter and probably got some wear.

4 - Could be LCA's with hard bushings transfering noise, but I would definitely investigate the possibility of brake or bearing issues.

I see you live in NC. I'm in Charlotte (not sure where you are) you're welcomed to contact me if you want to drive mine for comparison. If you bought from a dealer (I think you said so) and they're decent, reach out and see if they will offer any help at all.

I really wanted a BOSS when I bought my daily driver, but every car I found was either "Rode Hard, and put up wet", or never driven at all, and to damned expensive for a used car. It seems that BOSS's are either beat on or babied. Neither of which fit my needs. I think you're going to possibly need to invest a little more into the car, and then have a great ride.

DISCLAIMER:

These are just my personal thoughts. Turn off your flamethrowers and move along, there's nothing to see here.

To start it is a more of a widespread issue in the Boss more so than the GT's. Reason is it is the same parts in both the GT and the Boss, but the Boss has a good bit more power and revs a good bit higher. So pretty different cars with same parts as Ford thought that would be a good idea for some reason. Seems from all the reading I have down the GT's barely are able to make the parts work and have issues under certain conditions and mods, but Ford decided not to replace and add more power with the Boss.....

As far as the stainless steel lines I think this is the fix. Only like I just said I hate putting mod money in a car in the first month or so of owning. If this was a older car I would expect to, but this was a very expensive newish car.

I do live in NC. I live in the Greensboro area and if we are ever in each others area I would love to meet up.

This car from the condition and looks underneath it looks to have been a very well taken care of car. I hope!!

Lastly on a less serious note this comment is funny. "These are just my personal thoughts. Turn off your flamethrowers and move along, there's nothing to see here."

Quote:
Originally Posted by csamsh View Post
1&2 are not problems with the factory clutch design. Maybe check to see if your clutch helper spring has been removed? That will give the pedal a heavy feel. I would lean towards thinking the clutch needs to be bled (just pump the pedal a couple hundred times) or that the previous owner didn't know how to drive and broke stuff, in which case you'll need to drop the tranny and see what's up. As much as people love to hate the MT82 and stock clutches and stock clutch lines....it's really all fine if you know how to shift. pew pew pew, I know.

On 3, you're experiencing the wonders of the remote-mounting shifter. MGW race spec is the best solution. If you want to spend around $100 instead, get a whiteline crossmember bushing insert and a rear shifter bracket.

4 is either "you have a torsen" or "you have worn out bearings." Could be carrier or axle bearings. At 34k miles, I'd be surprised if it was either. Look at your UCA and see if it's stock or aftermarket. The aftermarket ones invariably transmit more noise to the cabin. Could be incorrect pinion depth as well, but I'd think you'd get more of a whine from that.
Yeah I have heard the clutch helper spring does cause it to be heavy. Don't think that is the deal here though as normal city or hwy driving "normal" like a easy going person would shifting around 2-3K rpms clutch is awesome. It experiences heavy feeling, sticking, and lock outs at high rpm's and when WOT or close to it.

Also, yes I have the Torsen Helical Differential. Is this sound normal for this diff?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin72 View Post
+1
Well stated.
Blazin, You are a big knowledgeable member and I love reading what you have to say. Very informative and great info I have read from you over my membership and pre-membership time here. Do you have any advice for my situation or everything you would say already been said?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
Is the car still under warranty or past the 36 month limit. If it is still under warranty I would take it in to the dealer and go from there with your fingers crossed.
It is under warranty and from what it sounded like yesterday they would replace the clutch, but the tech said really unless I pay for a aftermarket clutch it will not last and I will be back to square 1. So I am not sure what to do. Am hoping somebody with a Boss will join our convo and fill me in on their experience.


--------------------------------------------------------------------
Just in general comments to all:

I am not sure I want to mod a car I just spent a lot of money on. Not sure what to do as I feel sour about the deal and scard I may be in for a long costly ride if I keep the car. Not sure what options I have as I think when buying a used car you are at the dealers mercy if they will take it back... (Any info on this would be great.)

Next I want to thank everybody already for their input and some great info here and things for me to look into. I would love any other feedback, comments, and opinions to keep posting/coming in.

Current Garage
(11.)2012 GT500 silver with red stripe, SVT performance package, and Recaro seats.
2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016
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Since it is under warranty find out if the dealer is willing to install an aftermarket clutch assembly for you at the difference in cost or at least do the labor for free and you pay for the new clutch assembly.

If not definitely have them replace the clutch assembly with a new Ford OEM clutch assembly.

Hopefully some people with chime in on recommendations for aftermarket assemblies. You will definitely want to seriously think about installing a SS Heavy duty clutch line and the race spec MGW shifter.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016
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Originally Posted by MustangLife View Post
Do you have any advice for my situation or everything you would say already been said?
csamsh and PMDmustang pretty well covered it.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
Since it is under warranty find out if the dealer is willing to install an aftermarket clutch assembly for you at the difference in cost or at least do the labor for free and you pay for the new clutch assembly.

If not definitely have them replace the clutch assembly with a new Ford OEM clutch assembly.

Hopefully some people with chime in on recommendations for aftermarket assemblies. You will definitely want to seriously think about installing a SS Heavy duty clutch line and the race spec MGW shifter.
Even though I don't want to put anymore money into the newly purchased car and especially when having issues like I am... I did ask the Ford dealer if they could pay labor under warranty and be bring a aftermarket clutch and they said they couldn't do that...

I am still waiting to hear back on if they will 100% replace under warranty to being with, but from the sound of it yesterday and also what I have read online this is a warranty replacement issue.

Just my concern is will this fix the issue or will it come right back?

I do plan to do the SS clutch line when they do the clutch replacement. I am unsure about the shifter as I don't know if I want to mod the car to much while having issues as that opens up the can of worms for them to deny future responsibility is my big hold up there. It seems I am in between a rock and a hard spot...

What are your thoughts with this info?

Thanks!!

Current Garage
(11.)2012 GT500 silver with red stripe, SVT performance package, and Recaro seats.
2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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I would at least replace the shifter bushing with an aftermarket bushing, and they are relatively inexpensive. If this improves the shifting issue, you know it will get even better with a new shifter setup. It helped when I did it to my 2012 GT. Also, having the 3.73 rear end and getting into high rpm shifting, these transmissions just don't like that! Mine didn't. The torque on the drivetrain does not keep it aligned to shift cleanly, at least it didn't with my GT until the bushing and shifter were replaced. Same transmission and rear gear on mine, but not the same differential though.

With a little over 11,000 mile a year on the car, the previous owner must have enjoyed the car. At least it didn't sit. I'm not big on modding cars just to modify them, but the shifter bushing is a no brainer, and will not give you any warranty problems. I did that to my current car and it just made it better. And I wasn't really having any problems with it.

So don't panic. You haven't had the car long enough for that. One step at a time.

Pete

2014 Shelby GT500:Delivered 4/3/13, Black/Black stripes/Black interior, SVT Track Package, SVT Performance Package, JLT Oil Seperator, FRPP Resonator Delete, Syntha Max blue air filter, Revan Racing shifter bushing, Michelin PSS tires, Lloyd GT500 mats, and yes the stock Shelby seats.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Grimaldi View Post
I would at least replace the shifter bushing with an aftermarket bushing, and they are relatively inexpensive. If this improves the shifting issue, you know it will get even better with a new shifter setup. It helped when I did it to my 2012 GT. Also, having the 3.73 rear end and getting into high rpm shifting, these transmissions just don't like that! Mine didn't. The torque on the drivetrain does not keep it aligned to shift cleanly, at least it didn't with my GT until the bushing and shifter were replaced. Same transmission and rear gear on mine, but not the same differential though.

With a little over 11,000 mile a year on the car, the previous owner must have enjoyed the car. At least it didn't sit. I'm not big on modding cars just to modify them, but the shifter bushing is a no brainer, and will not give you any warranty problems. I did that to my current car and it just made it better. And I wasn't really having any problems with it.

So don't panic. You haven't had the car long enough for that. One step at a time.

Pete

I am panicking and I think rightfully so. I believe many will probably agree that I should be as I have a $30K car in my garage and day 1 having issues already...

I am being told by Ford that even if they replace the clutch it won't be a permanent fix as it may have the issues on day 1 after replacement or years down the road. They said to expect it on the sooner side of the estimate rather than the farther side.

Just at a current loss for what to do. Working that all out in my head. I mean if there was a clear solution like after clutch replaced I am 100% set I would be all over it, but not sounding like that from the Ford tech I talked to or a local performance shop who told me clutch is huge weak link at stock and if slightly modded trans becomes a weak link. I just want to be able to drive the car like one would expect. The ford dealer literally told me today that if I drive it like a normal person and stay in low RPM's it would be fine. I was like what immmm it is a BOSS Mustang we are talking about that Ford pushed as their "track ready street car" and not a Prius right???... He didn't have much response as expected and shifted the conversation back to replacement and how it wouldn't last and he recommended aftermarket.... I am kind of thinking the aftermarket push is really so once I mod they can deny warranty and any help and then it will be a 100% my problem and not theirs.

Current Garage
(11.)2012 GT500 silver with red stripe, SVT performance package, and Recaro seats.
2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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I don't think that you said it but I am guessing this was a private deal. The seller is still responsible to be upfront with you. I don't know about NC but here in MA as a private seller you are not allowed to sell a car without being responsible for the reliability within reason.

Have you contacted the seller to discuss the problems? If you still want the car, a partial refund to do replacements such as clutch, shifter and bushing would be in order.

Pete

2014 Shelby GT500:Delivered 4/3/13, Black/Black stripes/Black interior, SVT Track Package, SVT Performance Package, JLT Oil Seperator, FRPP Resonator Delete, Syntha Max blue air filter, Revan Racing shifter bushing, Michelin PSS tires, Lloyd GT500 mats, and yes the stock Shelby seats.
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Also, this might be of interest to you:
http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=63760.0

Pete

2014 Shelby GT500:Delivered 4/3/13, Black/Black stripes/Black interior, SVT Track Package, SVT Performance Package, JLT Oil Seperator, FRPP Resonator Delete, Syntha Max blue air filter, Revan Racing shifter bushing, Michelin PSS tires, Lloyd GT500 mats, and yes the stock Shelby seats.
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-18-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Grimaldi View Post
I don't think that you said it but I am guessing this was a private deal. The seller is still responsible to be upfront with you. I don't know about NC but here in MA as a private seller you are not allowed to sell a car without being responsible for the reliability within reason.

Have you contacted the seller to discuss the problems? If you still want the car, a partial refund to do replacements such as clutch, shifter and bushing would be in order.

Pete
It was at a small mom and pop dealer about 3hrs from me. I called his cell phone yesterday, left a message, and haven't heard back. Plan to call him to discuss here shortly when I get a second free at work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Grimaldi View Post
Also, this might be of interest to you:
http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=63760.0

Pete
I will take a read when I get a second. Thanks! I actually joined a Boss specific forum to comment on this issue as they had a sticky about it. Seems to be about all of them...


Current Garage
(11.)2012 GT500 silver with red stripe, SVT performance package, and Recaro seats.
2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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