Originally Posted by Blackpenguin69 View Post
an aftermarket clutch and an mgw race spec shifter should fix all of that.
I just hate to put more money in a very expensive car I just bought so soon. You know?
ML, it's not endemic for all 13-14's. I have 2x 2014's with the Track Package options and neither of them have ANY of those issues. I've driven several others, and none of them have your issues either. That being said; it doesn't seem to be unheard of either. I've read a few posts on various boards that report every issue you too are having.
1 & 2 - Some people have reported improvement and up to complete fix with flushing out the old clutch fluid, installing stainless steel lines, and refilling with DOT4 fluid. I'm skeptical about this but it may be worth a try. I personally believe you need a better clutch assembly. Better as in aftermarket.
3 - See 1 & 2 + I also believe a better shifter would help with this. I think yor car has had some hard miles, and the stock shifter was banged on hard when the previous owner was fighting the clutch issues. It's a remote shifter and probably got some wear.
4 - Could be LCA's with hard bushings transfering noise, but I would definitely investigate the possibility of brake or bearing issues.
I see you live in NC. I'm in Charlotte (not sure where you are) you're welcomed to contact me if you want to drive mine for comparison. If you bought from a dealer (I think you said so) and they're decent, reach out and see if they will offer any help at all.
I really wanted a BOSS when I bought my daily driver, but every car I found was either "Rode Hard, and put up wet", or never driven at all, and to damned expensive for a used car. It seems that BOSS's are either beat on or babied. Neither of which fit my needs. I think you're going to possibly need to invest a little more into the car, and then have a great ride.
These are just my personal thoughts. Turn off your flamethrowers and move along, there's nothing to see here.
To start it is a more of a widespread issue in the Boss more so than the GT's. Reason is it is the same parts in both the GT and the Boss, but the Boss has a good bit more power and revs a good bit higher. So pretty different cars with same parts as Ford thought that would be a good idea for some reason. Seems from all the reading I have down the GT's barely are able to make the parts work and have issues under certain conditions and mods, but Ford decided not to replace and add more power with the Boss.....
As far as the stainless steel lines I think this is the fix. Only like I just said I hate putting mod money in a car in the first month or so of owning. If this was a older car I would expect to, but this was a very expensive newish car.
I do live in NC. I live in the Greensboro area and if we are ever in each others area I would love to meet up.
This car from the condition and looks underneath it looks to have been a very well taken care of car. I hope!!
Lastly on a less serious note this comment is funny. "These are just my personal thoughts. Turn off your flamethrowers and move along, there's nothing to see here."
1&2 are not problems with the factory clutch design. Maybe check to see if your clutch helper spring has been removed? That will give the pedal a heavy feel. I would lean towards thinking the clutch needs to be bled (just pump the pedal a couple hundred times) or that the previous owner didn't know how to drive and broke stuff, in which case you'll need to drop the tranny and see what's up. As much as people love to hate the MT82 and stock clutches and stock clutch lines....it's really all fine if you know how to shift. pew pew pew, I know.
On 3, you're experiencing the wonders of the remote-mounting shifter. MGW race spec is the best solution. If you want to spend around $100 instead, get a whiteline crossmember bushing insert and a rear shifter bracket.
4 is either "you have a torsen" or "you have worn out bearings." Could be carrier or axle bearings. At 34k miles, I'd be surprised if it was either. Look at your UCA and see if it's stock or aftermarket. The aftermarket ones invariably transmit more noise to the cabin. Could be incorrect pinion depth as well, but I'd think you'd get more of a whine from that.
Yeah I have heard the clutch helper spring does cause it to be heavy. Don't think that is the deal here though as normal city or hwy driving "normal" like a easy going person would shifting around 2-3K rpms clutch is awesome. It experiences heavy feeling, sticking, and lock outs at high rpm's and when WOT or close to it.
Also, yes I have the Torsen Helical Differential. Is this sound normal for this diff?
Blazin, You are a big knowledgeable member and I love reading what you have to say. Very informative and great info I have read from you over my membership and pre-membership time here. Do you have any advice for my situation or everything you would say already been said?
Is the car still under warranty or past the 36 month limit. If it is still under warranty I would take it in to the dealer and go from there with your fingers crossed.
It is under warranty and from what it sounded like yesterday they would replace the clutch, but the tech said really unless I pay for a aftermarket clutch it will not last and I will be back to square 1. So I am not sure what to do. Am hoping somebody with a Boss will join our convo and fill me in on their experience.
Just in general comments to all:
I am not sure I want to mod a car I just spent a lot of money on. Not sure what to do as I feel sour about the deal and scard I may be in for a long costly ride if I keep the car. Not sure what options I have as I think when buying a used car you are at the dealers mercy if they will take it back... (Any info on this would be great.) Next I want to thank everybody already for their input and some great info here and things for me to look into. I would love any other feedback, comments, and opinions to keep posting/coming in.