Power mods - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
PONY Member
 
olehead's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Raymond
Posts: 280
 
As for tune if there is a good dyno tuner guy in your area the only way to go IMO - every car is different and a good guy can really make a difference - just make sure to verify results achieved by other users.

olehead is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
PONY Member
 
NoVa5.0's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2014
Location: Arlington
Posts: 704
 
As posted previously; forget power, focus on suspension, brakes and tires. A tune will liven the engine up. A BAMA 91 race tune is all that is needed.


Start with a new rear upper control arm to stop the wheel hop, and then go from there. Springs, shocks, roll bars, bushings, brakes, Watts link, etc., etc.


2012 GT Premium, Brembo PP, MT82, 3.73s, Blk/Blk. Bama 93R, Koni Yellow Rear Shocks, Hawk Ceramic pads, Luxurious & Plush Floor Mats
NoVa5.0 is offline  
GT Member
 
PMDmustang13's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,653
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVa5.0 View Post
As posted previously; forget power, focus on suspension, brakes and tires. A tune will liven the engine up. A BAMA 91 race tune is all that is needed.


Start with a new rear upper control arm to stop the wheel hop, and then go from there. Springs, shocks, roll bars, bushings, brakes, Watts link, etc., etc.
I agree with NoVa5.0 but would suggest to go with LCA relocation brackets and lower control arms (LCA's) before going to the upper control arm (UCA) replacement unless your car is already lowered as you will want an adjustable UCA to dial in the pinion angle correctly. The LCA relocation brackets and Poly Bushing LCA's from BMR were easy for me to install in my garage on jackstands, inexpensive, eliminated wheel hop, and increased my traction.

Here are some links if you are interested. There are other good brands out there also. I went with BMR because they have a lot of great aftermarket parts that go hand in hand without any interferences that could be encountered by mixing and matching different manufacturer's products. And their recently released watts link is more economical than any around.

2005 - 2014 Mustang Packages, Suspension, Chassis, Miscellaneous, Bushing Kits, Driveline, Brakes, Safety Equipment | BMR Suspension Products & Parts

Inexpensive LCA's TCA032 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

LCA Relocation brackets CAB005 - Control Arm Relocation Brackets, Bolt-on | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Control Arm Relocation Brackets | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
PMDmustang13 is offline  
 
Rookie
 
talon1979's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2016
Location: Utah County
Posts: 8
 
Subscribed. My car is also a daily driver for now and I am interested in some recommended mods also. Doing things to reduce or eliminate wheel hop sound like a no-brainer now that I read it as well as getting a better set of tires.

I am interested to see what mods others say you should start off with.
talon1979 is offline  
post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
JG-1's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 116
 
if I were to lower the car, what exactly would I need to make it handle properly? Besides the lowering springs of course.
JG-1 is offline  
GT Member
 
PMDmustang13's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,653
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JG-1 View Post
if I were to lower the car, what exactly would I need to make it handle properly? Besides the lowering springs of course.
Bare minimum would be the panhard bar to center the axle and adjustable UCA to adjust the pinion angle. LCA relocation brackets to angle the LCA's properly for traction. You should consider a good upper strut mounts/caster camber plates with adjust-ability such as vorshlag, Steeda, or Maximum Motorsports with GT500 upper mounts and 05-10 style struts. I wish I went the Vorshlag route but satisfied with what I have.

From there you would want shocks and struts compatible with the amount of drop. That would be a thread by itself. Search the forum as you get what you pay for and you pay for what you get. Good coilovers or Bilstein. I went with Strange Adjustable shocks and Struts.

Possibly modify or replace the rear bumpstops. I installed a bumpsteer kit and extended ball joints but not required.

I might be forgetting something right now. You need to spend some time researching.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts

Last edited by PMDmustang13; 02-25-2016 at 05:54 PM.
PMDmustang13 is offline  
post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
JG-1's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 116
 
JG-1 is offline  
post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
JG-1's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 116
 
Or the Roush Mustang track suspension kit
JG-1 is offline  
Apprentice
 
tyrell418's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2014
Location: Roseburg
Posts: 70
 
People saying you need to be able to hook and handle are correct. 420 horse stock is pretty damn good. Lower control arms are a good place to start along with a tune. BMR makes quality suspension upgrades at a nice cost. My tune is from Steeda, they arent the most aggressive in their tunes, which is also why they have never had a failure in their tunes. Eventually or right away like myself you'll want a louder car, the GT500 exhaust is a nice place to start. I also did a resonator delete (really makes a difference for real cheap) and added long tube headers with an offroad x pipe. Headers made the car a little faster, but even if it didnt, the sound alone is worth it. I also installed a panhard bar and a strut tower brace, the brace firmed up the front a little, and the panhard bar did a pretty big amount of impact imo.
tyrell418 is offline  
GT Member
 
PMDmustang13's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,653
 
Typically the stock panhard bar is more than sufficient for strength. However if you lower the car you need an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axle. But when the rear end of your car drops during acceleration your axle will shift to one side. I think it is the passenger side it shifts toward.

If you want an upgrade over the panhard bar then you install a Watts Link as it will maintain the axle centered under the car at all times if adjusted properly.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
PMDmustang13 is offline  
post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
JG-1's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 116
 
I'm looking at Vogtland springs because I don't want a huge drop and I want to keep the factory rake. 1.2" drop front and rear seems like a good drop for this.

The pan hardbar, which do you recommend? Is this something my local mechanic will be knowledgable enough to not just install, but to adjust properly? Centering the rear axle.
JG-1 is offline  
GT Member
 
PMDmustang13's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,653
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JG-1 View Post
I'm looking at Vogtland springs because I don't want a huge drop and I want to keep the factory rake. 1.2" drop front and rear seems like a good drop for this.

The pan hardbar, which do you recommend? Is this something my local mechanic will be knowledgable enough to not just install, but to adjust properly? Centering the rear axle.
Vogtland Sport Springs for the rear are a larger diameter than OEM. I know this for a fact because mine slightly rubbed. Now this might be because I orientated them based on factory recommendations. They may not rub if rotated differently. If you want Vogtland bad enough I have a set of rear springs I would sell you. Shoot me an offer. I can provide you more information and photos of how I had them orientated, where they rubbed, and show you how you could get more clearance if rotated. They did not come with install instructions. Maybe Vogtland customer service has a recommendation for install orientation. I can't imagine that they have not had other people with a rubbing issue and not have a solution.

Panhard bar is very simple to replace. You could do it yourself if you have even minimal mechanical experience. I am removing my adjustable panhard bar this weekend. I believe it is an Ingalls engineering product. I don't know if I want to get rid of it. But I would recommend BMR for an adjustable panhard bar.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
PMDmustang13 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1