Help with Brake system - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016 Thread Starter
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Help with Brake system

Was painting the calipers on my 2012 Roush and had an issue with the rear left brake piston...long story short I had to disconnect the line...a few questions...I did not lose too much fluid so I topped it off and proceeded to bleed the rear left only...is this correct or do all the lines need to be bleed? Does anything need to be done with bleeding of the clutch as I read that the reservoir is shared between the clutch and brake system? Took it for a ride and the clutch seems the same with no issues, but the brakes seem a little low...any help is greatly appreciated...in the meantime I am searching the forum for some ideas...thanks!

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016
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You can't do what you describe and expect that to work. Chances are good there is still air in there. Air will race back to at least the next highest point. Don't mess around here. It can be a pain to bleed these cars, as with any ABS vehicle.

The clutch is self bleeding, iow, just pump the pedal 100 times and it'll be good.


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2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016 Thread Starter
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After searching I couldn't find an answer as if to have the car running when bleeding. Does that make a difference?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016
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It does...in this case. Makes it A LOT easier with power assist.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016 Thread Starter
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Re-bleed each caliper...all set
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016
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Bleeding properly requires you bleed each caliper in the correct sequence. You need to contact Roush to get that info.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016
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The only sequence is the sequence that has been used on every car since the beginning of time. Furthest wheel out from the MC, then gradually move in to the nearest one. It'll be fine that way.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
The only sequence is the sequence that has been used on every car since the beginning of time. Furthest wheel out from the MC, then gradually move in to the nearest one. It'll be fine that way.

It depends on the brakes. BPP cars do not start from the farthest point from the master cylinder. You start with the right front inner/outer, then the left front inner/outter, then the right rear, then the left rear.

I also had to replace my left rear caliper, and getting the brake system bled properly was a PITA until we figured out the sequence was different.

Understanding the OP has a Roush car, an option they offered were up-rated brakes similar to the Brembo brakes. So, if the OP has those brakes, he needs to contact Roush and see if there is a specific sequence for bleeding them.

2012 GT Premium, Brembo PP, MT82, 3.73s, Blk/Blk. Bama 93R, Koni Yellow Rear Shocks, Hawk Ceramic pads, Luxurious & Plush Floor Mats
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