Lower Control Arms--To be adjustable or not to be - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016 Thread Starter
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Lower Control Arms--To be adjustable or not to be

I have had enough of the wheel hop. I have made up my mind on which brand I want, not sure if I should go with adjustable or fixed. My car is not currently lowered but will be someday (hopefully soon).
Will relocation brackets solve any issue if i lower? Should I get those at the same time but just not install? I plan on taking to the track multiple times a year once I lower. Any suggestions you guys can offer would be appreciated!
Thanks!

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016
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LCAs should be fixed. Relocation brackets will solve any future lowered issues. The only reason to buy adjustable is if you are a hardcore racer and have a team of mechanics knowledgeable on suspension making fine tuned adjustments... You will need an adjustable pahard bar though to center the axle up once you lower (and sometimes the cars come from the factory offset toward the driverside).


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016
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Agree with dt -- I don't know any need for adjustable LCA's except fine tuning, mainly for drag racing.

If you need to adjust pinion angle, do it with adjustable UCA.

For road track, some articulation (ability to twist) is important in the LCA's and UCA; spherical bushing is good for this but can also transmit more NVH

For a lowered car, my understanding is the relocation brackets are important . . . best to do them at the same time.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016
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Adjustable is always better. If you lower the car and you end up with your thrust angle being off when the axle is centered...you're gonna wish they were adjustable.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016
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I bought non adjustable LCA's and an adjustable upper, both of which are going on today. This was recommended to me from my local Mustang shop as I only take it to the track 3-4 times a year.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csamsh View Post
Adjustable is always better. If you lower the car and you end up with your thrust angle being off when the axle is centered...you're gonna wish they were adjustable.


Good point / understood / agreed . . .


Checking my latest alignment, I have 0.07 degrees thrust angle. I assumed that was a good as it could reasonably get. My car is lowered 1.25" in the rear and recentered with adjustable panhard bar.


Should I be concerned / should I try to improve that? (I would need adjustable LCA's to do it).

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016
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99% of people don't need adjustable lcas and they can introduce more problems than they solve. If you are road course bound, you'll want everything adjustable but, road use or street strip, no way.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016
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should both upper and lower be replaced or will upper be enough?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016
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JBert brings up a good point - for street DD and occasional Auto X or Drag racing - what is an acceptable thrust angle?


Also maybe we can define the term too? I'm assuming that means the rear axle is not pointed straight ahead....?


Thanks,

Scott

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Given the relatively short wheelbase and narrow track width of this car, a tiny bit off, like under a degree,isn't going to be a big deal on the road.

Obviously if you can get the car totally square, that's ideal but, remember this car has huge soft rubber bushings with lots of deflection stock and the car manages allright with that so don't fret too much.

Thrust angle is the angle in which the front and rear axles deliver their force to the road.

As I said, I wouldn't put adjustable lowers on a road car. Pinion angle is the best thing to be concentrating on getting right on rear setup and that's best done with an adjustable upper. Adjusting pinion angle with the lowers changes the wheelbase and centering of the axle in the wheelwell, which brings other problems on.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
Good point / understood / agreed . . .


Checking my latest alignment, I have 0.07 degrees thrust angle. I assumed that was a good as it could reasonably get. My car is lowered 1.25" in the rear and recentered with adjustable panhard bar.


Should I be concerned / should I try to improve that? (I would need adjustable LCA's to do it).
If the amount of thrust angle is within the ford alignment specification you should be fine. When I had my alignment after lowering the car they could not get thrust perfect without the axle shifted over to one side. So I said center the darn thing for aesthetics and I never noticed a difference. I had fixed poly ends. Now I have adjustable with poly one end. I can definitely hear them but I don't care yet. I am happy with adjustability, especially with other suspension component modifications. Thrust is likely still off some because I have made adjustments and have not been aligned again.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UUUd444 View Post
should both upper and lower be replaced or will upper be enough?
If you lower the car you must have an upper adjustable UCA and should have relocation brackets.

If you have wheel hop then upper Adjustable UCA with Poly bushing or spherical bushings may solve the wheel hop.

My wheel hop before lowering was solved with relocation brackets and LCA's with poly bushings.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
If you lower the car you must have an upper adjustable UCA . . . .
As I understand it* -- adjustable UCA is not really a "must" if you have the stock driveshaft because the stock driveshaft is very tolerant of pinion angle variations. (that's why it weighs a ton and has an extra joint in the middle)

Adjustable UCA more important with one-piece driveshaft, where pinion angle is more critical.

* Disclaimer -- "as I understand it" means I don't really know for sure what I am talking about



EDIT: what's up with the extra line spaces lately? Is that a new feature?

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Last edited by JBert; 03-31-2016 at 01:11 PM. Reason: see "edit"
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I believe Sqidd would say pinion angle is important with 2 piece shaft also based on being in phase or close to as in phase as possible. But yes the 2 piece shaft is more forgiving. All I know in regards to this is what I read in this forum though.

I usually put the extra spaces between different items/emphasis of discussion to avoid long paragraphs. Probably has to do with the style of engineering reports at my current employment.

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It ain't as much about phase as it is about ensuring enough down angle so that when the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear under hard acceleration, it doesn't push the pumpkin into an up angle situation, which will trigger wheelhop. 3 links like these don't need alot here, 2 degrees down max on a street car, compared to a leaf spring rear, which will need 7 or 8 degrees down to compensate for the spring wrap up.


2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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