Gonna spring for the Ford power pack! - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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I have the Power Pack and I like it a lot. I had it installed about 3 weeks after I bought the car in Nov. 2011. The GT500 mufflers get louder over time and they still sound great. The ProCal tune does add a very noticeable torque boost to the bottom end.


2012 Grabber Blue GT Premium, 6MT, 3:31, Brembo, Nav, Comfort pkg, backup camera.
Goodies: GT500 Mufflers, MGW Shifter, DSS AL Driveshaft, Bondra Clutch pedal extension
Tune: Bama 91 Octane V2 Performance Tune
Suspension: Steeda Ultralite Springs, Koni Yellows, Steeda HD Strut Mounts, Steeda UCA - lowered cars, BMR Adj. Panhard bar
Tires: Continental DWS06 275/40-19
Track Days: Bama 93 Octane Race Tune, 18x10 SVE Drifts with Bridgestone RE-11 285/30
Just for show: Raxiom Smoked tail lights
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Power pack, or the pro cal, is ford racing mild canned tune. You might feel a difference but that's usually to better throttle response. It will add some rwhp and rwtq but nothing like a tune from a reputable tuner or dyno tune.

If you stay n/a you can go with a 3400-3800 toque converter. Converter alone has made cars 60' from a 1.8 to a 1.5 easy. I'm going with a 3400 and should work with the nitrous too. It's the best bang for buck on these cars.

And I've seen a lucky few that have hit high 11's with tires alone.

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The rocking hard throttle response and low grunt is absolutely hilarious on Procal but, you are right, there are better choices with the auto, even with other canned tunes. The Procal made my 2012 feel like it had 400+ horsepower, the factory tune was a total **** sandwich. 11.9 with a tire was hard earned but really worth it.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Originally Posted by scottmach View Post
He would see zero improvement going up to that gear. Stop giving out $hitty advice on things you have no experience with.
If you can't tell a difference in 3.15's and 3.75's you need to turn the keys to your mustang in because you are doing it all wrong and must either be using your Mustang as a grocery getter or a garage queen. haha The difference would be pretty noticeable or I guess I should say in my opinion. I mean people claim they notice a huge difference between 3.73 and 4.10 and recommended that all day.

Have you ever done a gear swap? I would assume you have since you have in your signature a built Mach 1. Anyway a friend and I did a gear swap on his Mustang I think from 3.15's to 3.75 or maybe 4.10 and it was a night and day difference. Granted this was on an older Mustang, but gearing should be gearing unless I am missing something. I speak from experience and not out by you know what...

So yeah idk what to tell you or really how to respond...

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Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
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(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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Originally Posted by MustangLife View Post
If you can't tell a difference in 3.15's and 3.75's you need to turn the keys to your mustang in because you are doing it all wrong and must either be using your Mustang as a grocery getter or a garage queen. haha The difference would be pretty noticeable or I guess I should say in my opinion. I mean people claim they notice a huge difference between 3.73 and 4.10 and recommended that all day.

Have you ever done a gear swap? I would assume you have since you have in your signature a built Mach 1. Anyway a friend and I did a gear swap on his Mustang I think from 3.15's to 3.75 or maybe 4.10 and it was a night and day difference. Granted this was on an older Mustang, but gearing should be gearing unless I am missing something. I speak from experience and not out by you know what...

So yeah idk what to tell you or really how to respond...
Yes I've done plenty of gear swaps on cars over the years. In previous years it was a good mod, but not in these cars. There is ZERO benefit on these autos to go from 3.15's to 3.73's. NONE.

So unless you have first hand experience here with THESE cars I would suggest you keep quiet. I do have personal experience here and know FIRST hand the 2011 auto cars do not benefit from a gear change to 3.73's or 4.10's. My 2011 ran low 11's N/A on 3.15's tuned by me.

Yes you're definitely missing something here, the aggressive gearing in the 6R80. Read some of the others comments here as well. They agree with me.

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Hooah to that. The auto may feel a little crack throttle soft on 3.15s but when you hammer it, it'll blow tires off all day because of the steep gearing in the box.

I'm keeping them because I have torque in a bottle and will probably go FI again down the road so, I don't need more gear.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Hooah to that. The auto may feel a little crack throttle soft on 3.15s but when you hammer it, it'll blow tires off all day because of the steep gearing in the box.

I'm keeping them because I have torque in a bottle and will probably go FI again down the road so, I don't need more gear.
But wait, I shoved 4.10's into my 1956 Ford pickup and it made a HUGE difference. Isn't this the same thing?

2015 Mustang GT Premium Sold

2011 Mustang GT Premium Sold

2003 Mach1 Sold
2.3 Whipple, fully built motor with all the bolt-ons 718 rwhp/735 rwtq Sold
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Originally Posted by scottmach View Post
Yes I've done plenty of gear swaps on cars over the years. In previous years it was a good mod, but not in these cars. There is ZERO benefit on these autos to go from 3.15's to 3.73's. NONE.

So unless you have first hand experience here with THESE cars I would suggest you keep quiet. I do have personal experience here and know FIRST hand the 2011 auto cars do not benefit from a gear change to 3.73's or 4.10's. My 2011 ran low 11's N/A on 3.15's tuned by me.

Yes you're definitely missing something here, the aggressive gearing in the 6R80. Read some of the others comments here as well. They agree with me.
Didn't know I was dealing with someone "all knowing" and that this wasn't America anymore where people can't have an opinion. Let me be the first to say MY BAD... and I AM SORRY I inserted an opinion and former experience in gear swaps.

I feel this thread has escalated more than it should have though and has strayed off topic of helping a fellow form member and is now rather just about arguing and trying to be right...

I will be the first to admit I know more about manual's then autos. As I have owned many Mustangs and majority being manual as nothing against autos, but I don't feel as in control or as one with the car as when driving a auto.

Either way I am leaving the thread as there is nothing to be gained here arguing... Sorry I seemed to offend/piss you off...

Current Garage
(11.)2012 GT500 silver with red stripe, SVT performance package, and Recaro seats.
2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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Originally Posted by moonrakercat View Post
Hi Mark - yes AM does do quite a marketing job with their tunes & stuff like that - when I first started looking at it I was amazed also - I had the "I gotta get its" until I looked deeper.

I think if you look closely you will find AM does it's base tests with 87 octane gas - and final tests with 91 or 93 octane - and voila - instant hp. I think if they used the same gas either 91 or 87 start-finish in the tests you would see minimal if any overall gains. Maybe I'm wrong, Maybe am would like to chime in on this - maybe I'm not wrong. Remember the stock mustang makes different power with different octane gases - this is where most of the gains come from.

I think axlebacks + intake will do squat for you - the tune will make the difference. It has the effect of giving you maybe 5-7 hp more - but what it does do is affect other things like gas pedal lag and responsiveness - so the car will definitely feel more awake. It does change the torque/hp curve - from what I understand a tune will shift the torque curve more toward the low end of the spectrum - so you will have more off the line, but what you gain low end you typically loose top end. Nothing is free in this world, and if it sounds too good to be true it always is.

I have to agree with the torque converter and gearing issues mentioned above - a tune alone will make a big difference in how the automatic shifts - but be warned - I have heard alot of people on this forum complain that am's tune is a hit/miss with automatics - maybe it is better with their new tunes - I don't know - an automatic tranny is not something you want to mess too badly with - it is a costly replacement item.

You may be best off putting your cash with just a tune/ torque converter and some simple suspension mods like better lca's to eliminate wheel hop.

IMHO anyway.

You pretty much nailed it except for the part about a stock car making more power w higher octane, but you were close. The more timing you run the more power you make and the more timing you run a higher octane is required so there won't be any detonation. Say you have a car that is "recommended" of 87 octane and you put 93 in it's still going to have the same power because the timing wasn't advanced. What is the recommended octane for the coyote anyway? Say it's 91 and a company runs it on 87 and retards the timing for a base pull, they could really fudge a test. But yeah axle backs make noise, gears throw you back in the seat harder and make you shift soone, but the "feel" far out weighs the actual time knocked off.


Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue.
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You pretty much nailed it except for the part about a stock car making more power w higher octane, but you were close. The more timing you run the more power you make and the more timing you run a higher octane is required so there won't be any detonation. Say you have a car that is "recommended" of 87 octane and you put 93 in it's still going to have the same power because the timing wasn't advanced. What is the recommended octane for the coyote anyway? Say it's 91 and a company runs it on 87 and retards the timing for a base pull, they could really fudge a test.
The Coyote has a dual power rating. 402 for 87 octane and 412 (11-12) for 93. The computer continually advances timing within programmed limits. This means a tuner can easily fudge numbers by changing gas.
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The Coyote has a dual power rating. 402 for 87 octane and 412 (11-12) for 93. The computer continually advances timing within programmed limits. This means a tuner can easily fudge numbers by changing gas.

I see.


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This ain't a new trick....stuff like this has been going on since the musclecar era in the 60s.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin72 View Post
The Coyote has a dual power rating. 402 for 87 octane and 412 (11-12) for 93. The computer continually advances timing within programmed limits. This means a tuner can easily fudge numbers by changing gas.
Hypertech has two canned tunes that come with the Max energy programmer. They have a dyno sheet where they have an 87 octane base pull stock and a 87 octane pull with their canned tune, the canned tune produced 10 more hp on 87 octane. Then they dynoed their 93 octane canned tune and gained 17hp from the stock 87 octane pull. I guess that would be about 419 hp on 93.
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Gonna spring for the Ford power pack!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
This ain't a new trick....stuff like this has been going on since the musclecar era in the 60s.
I know, K&N used to advertise a 25hp gain from their drop in filter and cai's still claim to add horsepower.. That was my polite way of saying that vendors "testing" parts they sell via dyno aren't all that reliable of a source for "real world" gains. I usually get too much flack for doubting manufactures claims is all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkMartinez View Post
Hypertech has two canned tunes that come with the Max energy programmer. They have a dyno sheet where they have an 87 octane base pull stock and a 87 octane pull with their canned tune, the canned tune produced 10 more hp on 87 octane. Then they dynoed their 93 octane canned tune and gained 17hp from the stock 87 octane pull. I guess that would be about 419 hp on 93.
So what's the factory recommended octane stock? When I asked the other guy he said it was horsepower rated at two different octanes making it sound like the stock "tune" would be able to detect detonation if one was running a lower octane and it would retard accordingly. Is that the case? I understand the higher octane the more power output potential when it comes to tuning, "canned" or otherwise. That just goes back to the more timing advance making more hp and the required gas to make a complete burn thing.
Is there a way to manipulate timing w out a tune w the coyote?



Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue.
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Yeah, the ECM does it all the time in real time. You put 87 in the knock sensors will see some knock activity immedaiately and take stetp to pull the timing back til it stops....hence the lower rating on 87. Similarly, put 93 in and the ECM will add timing to a preset maximum to maximise power.


2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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