2 Piece Drive Shaft??? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016 Thread Starter
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2 Piece Drive Shaft???

Why the heck do these little cars have a 2 piece drive shaft????

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016
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Because the driveline is misaligned, and they need that extra joint in there to cancel out unwanted vibrations due to the misalignment.

That's why one-piece driveshafts are more critical on pinion angle.

Related question -- does anyone know if the factory driveshaft has CV joints? I heard something recently that made me think maybe it does?


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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016
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Originally Posted by Coosawjack View Post
Why the heck do these little cars have a 2 piece drive shaft????
To enhance the clunking noises and driveline slop. It serves to remind you that you have a manual transmission every time you roll.


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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016
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There is nothing wrong with a 2 piece driveshaft. It makes life easier in tight chassis like this one. The stock driveshaft is actually very strong.

It's not about "misalignment". You don't just "align" the powertrain. All powertrains are "misaligned" and it is perfectly ok, as long as they are set up correctly.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016
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Related question -- does anyone know if the factory driveshaft has CV joints? I heard something recently that made me think maybe it does?
The rear shaft has a CV at each end and a U-joint off the transmission.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016 Thread Starter
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Hmmmmm......I've noticed a distinct "clunk" from the rear when I release the brake after stopping!! Perhaps it's the shaft "unloading"??
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016
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Happens on mine as well. With the stock upper, it wasn't noticeable but, with the Steeda upper CA, I get this occasionally. It's nowhere near as bad as it was on my former stick car but, it does happen nonetheless. The improved traction and adjustability make this occasional irritation worthwhile to me, though.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016 Thread Starter
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Is a one piece aluminum driveshaft worth doing on a street car??
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016
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Not from a performance standpoint. You'll want to pick one that either has a CV rear or put an adjustable upper CA on at the same time. Honestly, you can't really guarantee you'll entirely eliminate driveline lash in a rwd car. There will always be some slop here, has to be. That's part of the reason Ford puts thes huge marshmallow bushings in the rear suspension.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coosawjack View Post
Is a one piece aluminum driveshaft worth doing on a street car??
Debatable . . . the reduction in rotating mass and removing the joints does reduce losses through the driveshaft, so more HP reaches the rear wheels -- but hard to say if it is significant. You probably would not notice it on a street car but it might be worth a tenth or two in the quarter mile. They do reduce some of the clunking, because there are only two joints with their associated play rather than four.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016 Thread Starter
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I don't think I'll spend $700+ to eliminate a little clunking at this time as long as it ain't serious!!
Thanks for all the replies!!
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. . .
It's not about "misalignment". You don't just "align" the powertrain. All powertrains are "misaligned" and it is perfectly ok, as long as they are set up correctly.
There are some old threads on here that go into this in some depth. The gist of it is, as I recall:

The "perfect" alignment of transmission and differential has the transmission output shaft and differential input shaft at equal and opposite angles to each other. I think the transmission "should" be pointed up slightly, and the diff pointed down slightly. Then the changes in rotational speed as the driveshaft goes through the joint at each end are equal and opposite and cancel each other out. I gather this is called "in phase."

But in these cars the transmission angle is not "right" -- I think it is pointed down rather than up. Plus the differential rotates a bit. All of this causes "phasing" issues through the driveshaft that cause vibrations and that's why the stock driveshaft has the extra joint in the middle and the CV joints.

If I remember correctly, sqidd spent quite a bit of time trying to get his drivetrain lined up correctly and came to the conclusion that it was practically impossible due to the chassis, so the best way to deal with it is with CV joints.

But my memory is not the greatest so "your mileage may vary" ;-)

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I've building and racing cars and bikes for over 30 years. Here is my experience: Ideally, if you can keep the driveline in complete alignment (a straight line) nice but, you don't have to and you cannot keep this static setup when the car is under load or in motion. You have to consider motor movement, suspension action and chassis flex when you set this up. Pre-loading the rear axle so that the snout actually points down, "out of phase" is often required to allow the axle to rotate into phase under high load.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016 Thread Starter
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It seems they engineered it to work but I saw a V-6 destroy one at 135 MPH.....BOOM!!

Doubt I'll go that fast but just curious....is the one for the 5.0 stronger at high speeds??
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The V6 one is lighter and they had a run that had an imbalance problem that led to the catastrophic failure. The factory speed limiter on the V6 cars made this a non-issue, until people started turning that off in tunes.

The V8 ones don't report any problems, even at very high power levels. Don't underestimate the 2 piece. Other than the driveline lash annoyances, it's a stout piece.


2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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