Clutch or Transmission? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016 Thread Starter
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Clutch or Transmission?

Not a good night now. Manual Transmission won't go in gear with engine running after coming to complete stop. Limped it home in third gear and not very smooth feeling. Shut off put in gear and turned on and sounded like stuff flying around in bell housing or transmission so now it is sitting on the street unprotected.

No options other than having it towed to the dealer in the morning and crossing my fingers I guess.

I suppose that is the clutch or pressure plate? Clutch pedal feel seems normal.


2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016
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If it'll shift into gears engine off without issue, you probably just exploded the clutch.


2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016 Thread Starter
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I guess I hope your right. I spoke to the service technician that I trust working on my vehicle and he also believes it is the clutch. I decided to have it towed to the dealer next Monday and have the clutch replaced. The dealer is allowing me to have aftermarket parts installed so I need to get a clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing ordered. Going to research the forum and decide on likely McLeod RST twin disk or Center force twin disk, and go with OEM slave cylinder and ford racing pilot bearing. Planning on resurfacing OEM flywheel if not damaged.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016
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not under warranty?

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016 Thread Starter
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The dealer without looking at it yet said clutches are typically not warranty type items when around 29K. I will make sure that I discuss this with the service technician to make a determination if this is a clutch failure that could be covered under warranty because this is going to be expensive to me to get repaired. I will also make sure that I can see the damaged parts and take photos after he gets the transmission removed.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN5.0 View Post
not under warranty?

Clutches are not warrantied. They're a wear item.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
The dealer without looking at it yet said clutches are typically not warranty type items when around 29K. I will make sure that I discuss this with the service technician to make a determination if this is a clutch failure that could be covered under warranty because this is going to be expensive to me to get repaired. I will also make sure that I can see the damaged parts and take photos after he gets the transmission removed.
Sorry to hear Paul - 29k is low for a problem like that to happen - pursue it softly - see if you can get anyone to help you with a claim - you might get lucky & get it covered.

Are you going to target a new clutch that will yield a softer pedal feel ? I don't know if you removed the helper spring on the clutch pedal - something I did to give me better clutch engagement feel - but the pedal becomes harder - I would be interested if this is also an issue for you and how the clutch feel turns out afterward.

2009 Red C/S, 2014 Blue GT, 1969 Coupe 302
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016 Thread Starter
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It sure did seem to be a catastrophic failure. No previous signs of slipping. I have always from day one had issues with getting the transmission into some of the upper gears when taking the engine near the redline. I have not adjusted the factory redline rev limiter either. I did accidentally hit the rev limiter in 1st and 2nd prior to the failure so possibly it is all my fault driving a little too aggressive last night?

I am leaning toward a Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and pressure plate. The advertisement indicates light pedal effort. I did already take out the helper spring. I am wondering if an OEM slave cylinder will be sufficient or if I need something stronger.

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2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016
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Clutch is warranteed for 12 months.

Twin disks make a racket, be aware and you really don't need that much clutch unless you're really going hardcore. Remember, you might want to have the clutch go as a fuse before exploding the next thing down the line, the trans.

The RST is a fine clutch, I've heard. Now, the factory clutch is tough...lots of people on blower setups with the stocker so, I don't know what happened here but, you may want to look at an upgrade if your driving style merits it.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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I had a discussion with the service manager at the dealership where I bought my car in order to clarify just how a clutch failure would be handled in regard to the power train warranty and this is what I came away with. It is a wear item just as brake pads are, so in that sense it won't be covered if it simply wears out. However if it fails due to other causes such as a leaky throwout bearing or a transmission input shaft seal it would be. It may also be covered if it fails due to broken springs or other metal parts in the disc or pressure plate. Of course if you've been the the drag strip and running slicks or drag radials it might be to your benefit not to mention that.
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you betcha...don't mention the SC or nitrous either

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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feel for ya...IF your dealer gives you even partial credit you owe them a big box of donuts.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016 Thread Starter
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I was actually thinking about bringing in a couple dozen donuts for the service department as they have treated me very good in the past. They pretty much know I have a tune on the car and they know there are a lot of modifications. They let me request the same technician that has performed most of the work that I don't do myself. And they let me hang out and watch the process and chat with the tech.

I don't think they know for sure yet if I was planning on sticking around during the repair. But I am definitely going to be there when all the evidence is exposed because if it is something that failed prematurely (and not my fault) then I will need to nicely request they consider having Ford take care of at least the labor under warranty and any OEM parts that I use for replacement. I surely hope they are fair and don't take the stance that warranty is out the door just because I have a tune, LCAs, driveshaft, SS clutch line, driveshaft loop, and after market shifter etc. I have not forgotten that I took those chances with the warranty and you have to pay to play.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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Blowing apart at 29K sounds like catastrophic failure to me but charm and persistence are your best friends when dealing with it as far as warranty is concerned - good luck.


Scott

2014 GT Track Pack/Brembo/Recaro/Whiteline suspension system/Blowfish Racing shifter bracket - the 3.73 Torsen is so loud now that, with all due respect to Wade Chamberlain, BadFast has been renamed "The Whining Mistress"
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04 1200 XLC
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Yes I would bring them LOTs of donuts before they disassemble - and when they find the exploded clutch, just look at the service manager and ask softly if he can help you out (don't mention just labour or parts) - alot of times people will want to help - he might cover everything- best thing to do is ask softly and then hold your breath and keep your mouth shut.

It really does sound like a clutch imperfection or mech problem - so it should be covered..

good luck -....remember the donuts !


2009 Red C/S, 2014 Blue GT, 1969 Coupe 302
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