Pre-purchase Questions.. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016 Thread Starter
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Pre-purchase Questions..

Alright everyone, new member here. Been lurking for a good while but finally decided to create an account since I am officially in the market for a Mustang. I just sold my old car a few days ago so I began looking for a deal on a 11-14 GT.

Got some questions.

1. I found a really good deal on a 2011 GT, clean carfax, low miles, etc. Since the '11 is the first model year is it advisable to keep looking for a '12+?

2. I know all about the transmission issues with these 6 speeds. Is their any recommended "tests" I can do while on the test drive?
2a. I heard the BlowFish Racing Transmission Bracket corrects these issues, is this correct or is it still hit or miss?

3. How common is the "BBQ" Tick or the "Oil Change" Tick? I tried combing through the 55 page Sticky about it but was getting overwhelmed ha.

I just want to cover my bases before pulling the trigger on one and don't want to be let down.

I was going to get a 370z as my next car but was disappointed in the lack of power.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016
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If you get an 2011 get one with a very late manufacturing date. Mine was built 2/4/11 which was very close to when the 12's started. I have had it back once for warranty work which was power seat motor passenger side. Transmission good and no engine tick. I would test drive whatever year I bought and run it through its paces. Problems should not be hard to find. Check for hood corrosion and recent repairs in that area. If its been repaired figure on replacing with an after market hood as corrosion will likely come back.



2011 Red Candy /build 2/1/11/ 401A
MT with Redline MTL/ Brembos/355's/glass roof
Shaker 1000/Scoops/Clear bra/Steeda UCA and PH bar
Redline hood lifts/Bilsteins with Ford Racing P springs & axle bks
UPR catch can/whiteline kdt928/MGW shifter with Epco ball
Shaftmasters DS/BMR loop & relocation brackets
Nitto 555 G2's/Steeda jack rails

Last edited by dusman59; 04-05-2016 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Added
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016
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I have a very EARLY build 2011 GT ( 4/26/10) My Mustang has been perfect except for a fuel pump that went out at 4,000 miles Ford warranty.NO hood,paint,corrision problems,NO engine ticks or noise,I use Mobil 1 5W30 with a small bottle of Hyper Lube each oil change, my Mustang has A/T,I also changed the Rear end lube to Royal Purple 75W140,also NO rattles or squeks or water leaks,check the car out more than the year,my 2011 has been perfect.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016
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I had an early build '12 last and now I have a very late build '14. The 14 is a better car in every way. Quieter, rides better, more stable at speed and the automatic I have now is a blast in a different way than the MT82 was. If you can swing it, the incremental improvements in the car are worth it to get. No way I'd buy an 11 unless I was really pressed for cash, not a if I could get into a 14 for a couple thousand more.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016
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based on my own research, the 13-14 premium package is the best possible S197 that can be had.

styling aside this represents the best of the series in options, features, drivability, quietness, and the least possible issues.

Add 3 oz hyperlube (or equivalent) at each oil change for zero tick issues.

just my $00.02


RWSRWS

2013 GT Premium Coupe - white (auto) 3-M Crystalline,factory 19”wheels, black rocker stripe/heat extractors, redline leather armrests & console Silverhorse qtr windows Polk & Infinity speakers,DYNAMAT EXTREMEGT500 A-backs
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2 Fctry Supercharged still own
1938 Studebaker President still own
1969 Mustang Coupe, 302 Blue (sold 1978)
1966 Aurora Thunderjet 2+2 Fastback - yellow w/red stripes (owned since age 9)
1968 HOT WHEELS Redline Mustang 2+2 Gold-owned since age 11
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016 Thread Starter
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I have been looking at the 2011-2012 and been seeing a lot of good deals for around 18-20k. Just recently since this post I have been eyeing up the 2014.. The front end looks 100x better in my opinion... I think I am deciding to wait for a good deal on a 2014. I have found a few for 22-23k which is a few more grand than I want to spend so I am gonna wait for a better deal to come around hopefully the prices will drop some more soon and save up a little more.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016
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good idea.....

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016
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Good questions and spot on answers from all. I'm going to touch on the other side of buying a used car. Remember the car was once owned by someone else and they traded it in for a reason. Hopefully for nothing bad. These Mustang 5.0's are race cars and could very easily have been abused prior to trade in. Be diligent on your pre-purchase inspection. Look and listen carefully, like for new tires on a car with only 10K of miles. Good luck on your search. You will love the car.

1964.5 convertible and a 2012 Sterling Grey GT. 100 hp. and 412 hp. Go Bama, Roll Tide! 2015 National Champions! Clemson put up one heck of a fight!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016
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As for the trans, if it isn't grinding gears or whining loudly enough you can't muffle it with the radio, it's likely fine.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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good stuff already...I'll add in the MT does take some getting used to...tight L/R gates use/counter the centering spring to guide you and make sure you are fully depressing clutch. Most of them are notchy but that ain't bad. grinds are bad.

2012 V6 traded in for a 2017 VW GTI.
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