Upgrading rotors - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016 Thread Starter
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Upgrading rotors

Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my front and rear rotors on my 2012 GT with brembos. What ares your thoughts on slotted vs cross drilled. Any preference to either one ? Thank you

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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Neither one add any performance over flat blanks. However they do look awesome.

BTW, I added StopTech cryo treated drilled/slotted rotors to my Brembo car recently.


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2012 Mustang GT, Brembo Pkg, Yellow Blaze Metallic


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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To me, drilled and slotted rotors are more cosmetic than anything. Centric Premium blanks are good.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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+1 for Centric Premium blanks. I've been through a lot of sets of those and they've served me very well. I've really never heard of anyone else having problems either. The price is great too if you go through brakes.

Yeah drilled and slotted are usually bling. Sometimes they're not though.

AP Rotors-


Some of the newer Brembo Stuff with the little eyebrow cuts....this might be functional slotting...not too sure though.


Even a Daytona Prototype has slots in the rotor...granted they're not that intense of slots.


Drills on the other hand....yeah they're probably for Cars and Coffee most of the time. I'll just post the most recent drilled rotor failure I've seen- on a friends 350z last weekend after autocrossing-

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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I've been using cross drilled rotors since 2001. On my 95 Mustang GT, 03 Cobra, lightning and so on. Never had one hole crack. but everything has something that comes out defective from the factory.
Also, If you break them in correctly, you'll feel a difference. Nothing crazy but you will stop a little sooner.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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+2 on the centric premium blank rotors. That is the route I have taken because of the price and camsh previous recommendations in this forum.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csamsh View Post
+1 for Centric Premium blanks. I've been through a lot of sets of those and they've served me very well. I've really never heard of anyone else having problems either. The price is great too if you go through brakes.

Drills on the other hand....yeah they're probably for Cars and Coffee most of the time. I'll just post the most recent drilled rotor failure I've seen- on a friends 350z last weekend after autocrossing-
I misspoke originally. I got the StopTech drilled/slotted rotors which are Centric Sport rotors.

I also got the Cryo treated versions. The cryo treatment is supposed to prevent the cracks you show in your pic. The treatment reduces the stresses that are formed from the drilling and slotting process which in turn helps prevent cracks. I guess time will tell

The cryo treatment was only like $10 more per rotor

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016
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Yeah, the drilled and or slotted rotors do look cool but they aren't going to make you stop any shorter on the street. The whole theory behind them is to dissipate heat so not to have "brake fade." Who is experiencing "brake fade" on the street? Even one was to go to the 1/4 and had to get on the brakes at 150 mph the brakes would be cooled off enough by the time it was their turn to run again to not experience fade. The down side of drilled/slotted rotors is not being able to have them turned. If you really want to improve stopping you need bigger calipers because that's what does the actually clamping. If you're keeping the same calipers aftermarket pads might help a little but not enough to justify the price.
After all you'll still have the same clamping force as you did before with only a coarser pad. Think about it like sanding a piece of wood. A coarse grit piece of sandpaper will help a little but not near as much as a power sander.
You can't really trust consumer reviews all that much in terms of brake pads. Like when you read pad review that says something like I just replaced my stock pads w these Hawks and wow nite and day difference! Well the majority usually don't replace pads until they have to so they're comparing old worn out pads vs new ones. The autozone ceramics would've made a nite and day difference as well.


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Another purpose for drilled or slotted rotors is to help evacuate the gasses that build up from the friction and heat. This only applies under heavy and extreme breaking though. In a racing application the gasses can reduce brake performance due to creating a gas buffer between the rotor and pad in extreme situations sich as slowing from 150+ to 60 or so for a hard corner. Most of us driving a Mustang would never see a difference though. Particularly if thecar is still mild enough to be street legal. (Or appear so and be used on the street regularly)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Who is experiencing "brake fade" on the street? Even one was to go to the 1/4 and had to get on the brakes at 150 mph the brakes would be cooled off enough by the time it was their turn to run again to not experience fade.

Hell, I did last weekend. A few times, out in the mountains on some wicked roads.

Not everyone thinks performance stops with straight-line acceleration. There's braking and turning too.


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If you really want to improve stopping you need bigger calipers because that's what does the actually clamping. If you're keeping the same calipers aftermarket pads might help a little but not enough to justify the price.

Really, the best money for better braking is installing better tires. As long as fade is not a concern.
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Upgrading rotors

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Originally Posted by NoVa5.0 View Post
Hell, I did last weekend. A few times, out in the mountains on some wicked roads.

Not everyone thinks performance stops with straight-line acceleration. There's braking and turning too.





Really, the best money for better braking is installing better tires. As long as fade is not a concern.


I understand that as well, I was just trying to use the 150 mph stop as an extreme case example. Were you riding the sht out of your brakes? Stock wheels or big ones? How old are the brakes? Was the fade so bad that it made a not so bad ride into a miserable one?
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I understand that as well, I was just trying to use the 150 mph stop as an extreme case example. Were you riding the sht out of your brakes? Stock wheels or big ones? How old are the brakes? Was the fade so bad that it made a not so bad ride into a miserable one?
A group of enthusiast drivers and I went out for a run in the mountains. I don't ride my brakes, but we were all using our brakes heavily. I have the PP Brembo brakes with Hawk ceramic pads.

The only issue was that we pulled over, and my REAR brakes were so cooked that they didn't hold the car on a slight decline. There was no serious fade while driving, but once I forgot to shut off the Traction/Stability control when we stopped, and the damn car over-heated the brakes FAST, and simply screwed up my driving until I stopped and shut it all off.

Stock wheels.
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