Excessive oil consumption 2011 GT - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Since you got the car with 42,000 miles on the clock there's no way of knowing how it was broken in or how it was used prior to your owning it, unless you can contact the previous owner [s]. Even then you may not get a completely honest answer. My guess would be that something happened prior to your buying it that accounts for at least part of the oil consumption issue. You stated that you hammer it pretty hard and do so frequently so that probably has some bearing on it too. IMO a quart of oil in 1,000 miles is significant for a modern low mileage car assuming it had a reasonably decent break in and wasn't absolutely beat to death. I bought my '14 GT new and broke it in hard, but not to the point of abuse. I use Mobil 1 5w30 full syn and it only used a small amount of oil in the first 1,000 miles and since then it dosen't use any measurable amount between 4,500 mile oil changes. I am at 25,000 miles now. As for what oil and weight to use, well talking about oil is a little like discussing politics or religion, there's no shortage of opinions. I am not an engineer of a petro-chemist, just a guy with a reasonably open mind and long experience with racing and high performance cars. To the best of my knowledge when you look at the numbers of multi weigh oils the first number indicates the cold flow rating and the second is it's protection ability. In other words a 5w30 oil should flow when cold like a 5 weight oil and give protection equal to a 30 weight. The other numbers have to do with how it meets the auto manufacture's specifications and how it's rated by the petroleum industry. As others have previously noted the climate the car is used in and how it's used have a lot to do with what oil to use. If it were my car I would do both a leak down test and a compression test if you haven't already done so. Also as has been previously suggested carefully check the engines crankcase ventilation system. Good luck and try to let us know what you find.

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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017 Thread Starter
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Since you got the car with 42,000 miles on the clock there's no way of knowing how it was broken in or how it was used prior to your owning it, unless you can contact the previous owner [s]. Even then you may not get a completely honest answer. My guess would be that something happened prior to your buying it that accounts for at least part of the oil consumption issue. You stated that you hammer it pretty hard and do so frequently so that probably has some bearing on it too. IMO a quart of oil in 1,000 miles is significant for a modern low mileage car assuming it had a reasonably decent break in and wasn't absolutely beat to death. I bought my '14 GT new and broke it in hard, but not to the point of abuse. I use Mobil 1 5w30 full syn and it only used a small amount of oil in the first 1,000 miles and since then it dosen't use any measurable amount between 4,500 mile oil changes. I am at 25,000 miles now. As for what oil and weight to use, well talking about oil is a little like discussing politics or religion, there's no shortage of opinions. I am not an engineer of a petro-chemist, just a guy with a reasonably open mind and long experience with racing and high performance cars. To the best of my knowledge when you look at the numbers of multi weigh oils the first number indicates the cold flow rating and the second is it's protection ability. In other words a 5w30 oil should flow when cold like a 5 weight oil and give protection equal to a 30 weight. The other numbers have to do with how it meets the auto manufacture's specifications and how it's rated by the petroleum industry. As others have previously noted the climate the car is used in and how it's used have a lot to do with what oil to use. If it were my car I would do both a leak down test and a compression test if you haven't already done so. Also as has been previously suggested carefully check the engines crankcase ventilation system. Good luck and try to let us know what you find.
It's not a full quart/1000 miles I would say somewhere between 1/2 quart at the low end and 3/4 a quart at the high end every 1000 miles.
Money is a little tight so no I haven't gone for a compression test/leak down test. I thought if that was the problem I would notice some sort of power loss, or blueish smoke from the exhaust - neither of which has been happening.


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You can buy a compression gauge at any auto parts store for around $30.00 and do the test yourself so the cost of that test should be doable. A good dual gauge leak down tester is a bit more costly at around $100.00 last time I looked so possibly you may be able to borrow one if you have any racing buddies. As for blue smoke, the ignition system on modern cars is pretty strong and you need to have really high consumption to get the mosquito fogger haze. You may in fact have a minor power lose, just not enough to feel with the butt dyno.
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This list is confusing to me. I don't know what the difference is between AZO, ALM, ATM oil etc. I just know about oil weight. So for a 2011 GT non track pack in a warm climate which is daily driven hard - 50% of the time short trips and 50% of the time slightly longer trips 10w30 would be the ideal oil still correct?

Thanks for your time
10W30 would be a good safe start i think. If you are still consuming, consider moving up to 10W40.

however i must state: This is just my opinion. I am not an expert. Its your car and you must be the one to make an informed decision to use a different oil than stated in the owners manual.
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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRacer View Post
You can buy a compression gauge at any auto parts store for around $30.00 and do the test yourself so the cost of that test should be doable. A good dual gauge leak down tester is a bit more costly at around $100.00 last time I looked so possibly you may be able to borrow one if you have any racing buddies. As for blue smoke, the ignition system on modern cars is pretty strong and you need to have really high consumption to get the mosquito fogger haze. You may in fact have a minor power lose, just not enough to feel with the butt dyno.
I guess I should do that. I will if I switch to an even heavier oil and it continues to burn.
My butt dyno is SPOT ON btw! lol

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10W30 would be a good safe start i think. If you are still consuming, consider moving up to 10W40.

however i must state: This is just my opinion. I am not an expert. Its your car and you must be the one to make an informed decision to use a different oil than stated in the owners manual.
I'm already using 5w30. Wouldn't 10w30 essentially be the same thing as they are both 30 weight when warm?
Well I appreciate your opinion and time! I'm not overly worried using a heavier oil than whats stated in the manual, but thanks for the warning

2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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I'm already using 5w30. Wouldn't 10w30 essentially be the same thing as they are both 30 weight when warm?
Well I appreciate your opinion and time! I'm not overly worried using a heavier oil than whats stated in the manual, but thanks for the warning
ya sorry, missed that part. 10W40 then and maybe consider an xxW50 later
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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017 Thread Starter
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ya sorry, missed that part. 10W40 then and maybe consider an xxW50 later
No worries my dude! Are you recommending 10w40 rather than 5w40 because it's cheaper?

2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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no particular reason. for u i dont think there is a real differecne between the 5w40 or 10w40. go with the cheaper.
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Something bugs me about oil weights and arguments for and against various weights. The "flow" characteristics of motor oils are never mentioned. If indeed a 10w30 or whatever is "thicker" than the recommended 5w20, will not its flow to the necessary parts of the engine be slower thereby compromising adequate lubrication? I stick to what the engineers recommend. The BITOG website addresses this subject.


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Last edited by Okie Hick; 01-13-2017 at 05:16 PM. Reason: added a sentence
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Something bugs me about oil weights and arguments for and against various weights. The "flow" characteristics of motor oils are never mentioned. If indeed a 10w30 or whatever is "thicker" than the recommended 5w20, will not its flow to the necessary parts of the engine be slower thereby compromising adequate lubrication? I stick to what the engineers recommend. The BITOG website addresses this subject.
Why does Ford use 5w50 and 5w20 in the same engine ? The regular Mustang GT and the TracPack GT have the same engines and use different weight oils. Ford engineers must not care about flow.
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Why does Ford use 5w50 and 5w20 in the same engine ? The regular Mustang GT and the TracPack GT have the same engines and use different weight oils. Ford engineers must not care about flow.
For the 5w50 isn't the "5" identify a characteristic when the oil is cold and the "50" when its hot? I would be more inclined to be more concerned with the cold characteristic than the hot. I'd be leary of using anything > 5, e.g., 10, 20 or whatever....


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how many times has your coyote seen the rev limiter or the speed limiter? Mine has seen both many times. The harder you run it the less oil it uses. You are very lucky that yours uses no oil.
total bs!

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total bs!
Which part ?

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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017 Thread Starter
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Hey Guys just a quick update.

I'm kind of baffled really. The first time I tried 5w30 it didn't seem to make a difference. The second time in a row using 5w30 and also my most recent oil change 2200 miles ago seemed to have made a significant improvement in consumption. I haven't changed my driving characteristics and have actually been driving more - 2200 miles later the oil level is still above the bottom hole on the dipstick. Not quite halfway between the lower and higher hole but still comfortably above the bottom hole. If I had to guess, maybe <1 quart used - probably around 1/2 quart.
Strange but not complaining about the oil consumption reduction.
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2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback

Last edited by LosAngelesGT; 01-17-2017 at 02:49 AM. Reason: typo
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017 Thread Starter
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Hey Guys,

Another update. Not as positive as the last one. I've officially done 3,450 miles since my last oil change using 5w30 full synthetic. Been driving a lot. Mostly stop and go with all out flooring it and some drifting when I can. Checked the oil today and it was just below the bottom hole. How low do you guys thing that is? A full quart?
Anyway next oil change looks like I'll go up to 5w40


2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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