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Buying a mustang soon, and have some suggestions

861 views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  powerdoc12 
#1 · (Edited)
Buying a mustang soon, and have some questions

I am planning on buying a 2011-2014 gt soon. It will be a coupe, in manual transmission, and going to get the track pack or performance package as well. This will be a semi daily driver and maybe a little track/ drag time here and there. I do plan on doing some mods, exhaust, tune, cai, pulley. Maybe a turbo down the road. Can I get to 500hp without turbo? How? Costs? When I'm ready for turbo what's the cheapest way to get to 600hp? How is reliability with modding the engine with and without turbo? Are there any years that are most desirable or to stay away from? Is there a difference in insurance costs between the base model and the premium? Any issues with any years or models? I think I read the clutch was weak or something in certain years. Any other advice or links you think I should know is appreciated. Can't wait to join the family. I've done lots of reading and test deicing already.

Jason
 
#2 ·
Takes me back 3 months lol.

Insurance.. from what I found year/value more than base or premium will change cost.

Trans... invest in a MGW shifter and you should be good.

Clutch... Very different and somewhat goofy feel. My 1 month old 13 GT (55k miles) has had the clutch stick to the floor a few times on aggressive shifting causing lockout, all else normal. Hydraulic clutch line is plastic stock, and weird clutch return spring. Many have reported these cause this and I have a stainless line, and steeda replacement spring but have not installed yet. Otherwise some have said the pressure plate is the real cause, guess I will be finding out.

2011's had by far the most TSB's but none of them a "problem". Pleased I got a 13 as much had been worked out by then, the dreaded 1st-4th skip shift was removed in 13, and I got the much better steering wheel on my 13 base.

So far engines are extremely reliable, and I personally don't see why 250k miles naturally aspirated isn't to be expected. Under forced induction I really don't know, but would like to. Seems generally these motors hold 600-620 crank HP somewhat safely, beyond that (and some under) rods can fail (and do), they are the weak point. Haven't seen many turbos run, but lots of superchargers. Full bolt-ons without forced induction I'm thinking realistically 470-480 crank HP max, with a rather serious drop of low end torque (if it matters on your DD side of things).
 
#3 ·
Takes me back 3 months lol.

Insurance.. from what I found year/value more than base or premium will change cost.

Trans... invest in a MGW shifter and you should be good.

Clutch... Very different and somewhat goofy feel. My 1 month old 13 GT (55k miles) has had the clutch stick to the floor a few times on aggressive shifting causing lockout, all else normal. Hydraulic clutch line is plastic stock, and weird clutch return spring. Many have reported these cause this and I have a stainless line, and steeda replacement spring but have not installed yet. Otherwise some have said the pressure plate is the real cause, guess I will be finding out.

2011's had by far the most TSB's but none of them a "problem". Pleased I got a 13 as much had been worked out by then, the dreaded 1st-4th skip shift was removed in 13, and I got the much better steering wheel on my 13 base.

So far engines are extremely reliable, and I personally don't see why 250k miles naturally aspirated isn't to be expected. Under forced induction I really don't know, but would like to. Seems generally these motors hold 600-620 crank HP somewhat safely, beyond that (and some under) rods can fail (and do), they are the weak point. Haven't seen many turbos run, but lots of superchargers. Full bolt-ons without forced induction I'm thinking realistically 470-480 crank HP max, with a rather serious drop of low end torque (if it matters on your DD side of things).
thanks for the reply, I got some quotes from my insurance co on a few cars, and the gt base and premium were the same. Just model year changed the price. I am debating on mileage to look for, obviously I want the lowest, but trying to decide where to draw the line. I like that you had 55k on yours, I was thinking under 60k to look for. How much did you pay for yours if you don't mind me asking. How did you get the clutch unstuck(in case that happens to me). I am leaning towards a 13 gt as well. How come the low end torque drops with bolt ons?


Hope to hear from lots of you guys :wink:
 
#4 ·
The adjustment on the insurance cost are basically due to a 2014 has a higher value then a 2011. I picked up a 2011 Glass Roof manual GT about a month ago and love it. I'm really not looking at doing performance mods on the car since I really have no real interest at running it at the track at all right now. I just get to the grocery store quicker then most.
 
#5 ·
Sure, no problem at all in asking. I did LOTS and LOTS of looking and shopping for months before I bought, so I am really familiar with what has been out there recently, and where the market is. I bought mine as a 1 owner trade in with 52500 on the ODO for a hair over 17K. It is a Deep Impact Blue 2013 GT 6-sp manual Base with cloth. The car is immaculately clean with only small tiny rock chips (though a lot of them), not a stain inside, and everything top notch. In the air, on a lift, under the car, amazingly clean as well.

To be honest this was the best deal within 500 miles of Atlanta I could find (mileage/year/condition), and was lucky enough to find it when I needed it, and 29 miles away. For grins I look still at times, and have yet to find a deal to match it in the month I have had the car.

What I did notice... your best bets by far are in a person to person purchase, usually out of state. I could not do this due to financing constraints. I had a couple very nicely modded low low mileage 13's & 14's - track package, with full suspensions, 30k miles-ish for around 20K.

When the clutch sticks you can pump it, it will start to gain pressure after a few seconds, or hook your foot under and lift it to the top. When pressed again it is soft, usually 2 pumps and it is back. Your confidence in it however takes a lot longer to recover.

Mainly just the way engines are on the loss of torque. Factory exhausts have back pressure which hurts HP but helps torque. Your intake is great but runs out of steam at high RPM, the trade off it gives you is good torque. You go long tubes,full exhaust, and BOSS intake you change the characteristics of the engine. It produces more HP and more torque but it does it differently. You lose LOW RPM torque to gain the rest. It will produce more power, but higher up. I am not sure how bad this is in a new coyote, but in most anything else is very noticeable.
 
#7 ·
wow that sound like a great deal you got on that 2013. I've been test driving and checking out a lot of them just so I have more experience with checking them out when I am ready and know better of what to look for etc. One dealer yesterday let me take a really clean 2013 for about a half our drive all by myself. Im probably gonna try and stay under $20k, really would like to get a 13, but might go 11-12 just save a little extra on insurance. We'll see what I find when I am ready though.
 
#8 ·
Very cool and good luck. I was completed obsessed, watching cars online for weeks, etc, as I worked to get my down together. There are many Mustangs out there, but many of them are junk, so many with accidents on them (go figure). I think you are doing right, the best way to be sure you get the right car.

Yeah insurance is rough, and I am actually now shopping as I am not happy with the hike in my rates. For me I noticed a 40% increase when I compared a 2010 GT to my 13 GT 5.0, not cool.

I'm thinking by the time you are ready you will be like me... no BS when it comes to actually buying. Knowing exactly what these sell for, and how many months they hang on the market for various reasons (a big one being overpriced) comes after daily searching. For me this meant I would often laugh at a salesman and tell him and his managers what the car should sell for, and every better deal within 100 miles of them. This actually worked against me on a 12 GT Brembo with a full suspension, exhaust, and BOSS intake. They had it listed for 22,500, I laughed at them and told them about 2 other cars close selling for 18,500 (and where to find them online), and since this did have the intake they might sell it for 19,500. The car's price dropped the next day to 19,500 and was bought the same day, as I wasn't yet ready.

Personally I like the 11-12 front end/hood better and was what I was after. Though I have to say an 11 worried me a bit with a stack of potential TSB's needing to be done. The deal on the 11 California Special I had been watching for 2 months fell the day I was going to buy. My 13 just happened to pop on Cargurus that morning, pure wonderful timing. Add to that an excellent no BS salesman, and a dealership that knew what the car's value was. Fair to say it was a very large Caddy/Subaru/Frisker dealer so to them this was not the best car on their lot as it might have been for a small private lot.

Good luck
 
#10 · (Edited)
I have 25,000 miles on my 2011 GT premium. No track pack but I added steel brake lines and Hawk ceramics. Besides an x-pipe and Outlaw exhausts the first addition I made in 2011 was a steel hydraulic clutch line. My transmission has been fine and I added a FRPP shifter although the MGW seems like a better option. I have a AEM CAI and a Boss 302S high flow grille and plan to get a Boss manifold and a 90 mm throttle body next year. With the right tune that might get me in the 465 hp range. Add long tube headers and you might see 500 hp. Cams would put you over that but now You are getting expensive. I put my money into my suspension instead.

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