Heat Only Works During Acceleration - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Heat Only Works During Acceleration

I've got a 2014 base, manual. I purchased the car about a year ago and before I purchased the car, I tested the heat and it was working. Now that it is colder out, I finally tried to use the heat and noticed that it wasn't working.

It doesn't matter which setting I have the air on, heat will never come out yet AC works perfectly fine. I noticed that whenever I accelerate hard, the heat does work but as soon as I am done accelerating the temp of the air coming out goes back to whatever temp it is without heat.

I did some research and figured it was my blend door motor causing the issue. I ordered a replacement motor and popped out the dash. I didn't notice any clicking like the gears were skipping so I took out every single blend door and tested each one- every single one is working fine. I don't have a left-side blend door, but I checked the right side, along with the foot air vent, re-circulate and defrost motors. I'm not really sure what to test next or what the issue might be.

Help?

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018
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w/o insulting....coolant level and engine temp?

are the doors vac operated or motor = vac leak....accel should give more vac


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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Coolant level is fine and engine temp is as expected.
Doors are motor operated. Can be seen here: https://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-motor.916280/
There's a simple motor with gear to actuate the doors. There's some sort of feedback in the electrical system (sensing current) because when the climate control fuse is pulled and then put back in, the motors run through their full range and "calibrate" where the endpoints are.
I pulled off each motor and ran through all the climate control settings to ensure they were moving their full range of motion. I also physically moved each of the doors and was never able to see any heat at idle.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Here's the heating diagnostic I found that I'm looking through but unsure what to check next: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1...RaTWxFQkVqNi1v
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018
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Adding to Strange Mud: If heat works when you accelerate, it indicates hot water only flows through core during hi RPMs. Possible causes are low coolant, bad water pump, under driven water pump.
Also, I may be off base here, but I have heard that the Coyote has some additional coolant gates beyond just the normal thermostat. You may look under the hood with the engine warm and touch hoses, following the heat. Get to a junction and the next section is cool, there might be valve not opening.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018
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is it a lack of air flow or is it the temp? sounds like temp but making sure

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys. It is just a lack of heat. Airflow is perfectly fine.
I have noticed a bit of noise coming from one of the belts from time to time- would this correlate to the water pump being bad? What specifically would go bad with it, especially on a car that's only got 37k miles on it? Are there any tests I can do to determine if that is the culprit?
Is there a diagram of the hoses I should be checking? I can't find anything besides cooling system and belt diagram.

Edit- I found this (and the diagrams on pages following): Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - 2011 Mustang A Engine Cooling Engine cooling
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018
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Put the car up on ramps or even a good steep street, so that the coolant fill is the highest point in the system. run the car for a while till its hot, check the coolant level and bring up to the fill line. Fords are notorious for air trap in the heating system, especially those model with he coolant recovery tank up front

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baylensmanfl View Post
Put the car up on ramps or even a good steep street, so that the coolant fill is the highest point in the system. run the car for a while till its hot, check the coolant level and bring up to the fill line. Fords are notorious for air trap in the heating system, especially those model with he coolant recovery tank up front
Someone stole one of my jacks so I purchased some ramps which will be in today. I'll give that a shot.
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Someone stole one of my jacks so I purchased some ramps which will be in today. I'll give that a shot.
Maybe you'll have better luck, but I can't drive onto my ramps with my front tires. Nothing hits or anything, the ramps just slide out of the way. I bought the ramps for exhaust install and backing onto them with rear tires was fine, but when it was time to change oil, I figured I'd give it a go with the ramps. Pffft, nope lol, just kept sliding out. I ended up jacking up one side, slide a ramp under, then the other side and slide other ramp under.

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for burping the system....you can also loosen the rad cap to 1st notch and run car till up to temp. I like the bad h2O pump idea more than burping but burp is what I'd try 1st. I'm not sure how to test pump other than overheating in traffic.

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Old Goat Ninja View Post
Maybe you'll have better luck, but I can't drive onto my ramps with my front tires. Nothing hits or anything, the ramps just slide out of the way. I bought the ramps for exhaust install and backing onto them with rear tires was fine, but when it was time to change oil, I figured I'd give it a go with the ramps. Pffft, nope lol, just kept sliding out. I ended up jacking up one side, slide a ramp under, then the other side and slide other ramp under.
Thanks for this- I'll epoxy some rubber strips to the bottom of the ramps before I even give it a shot.

Mud- When you say sitting in traffic would be the only way to tell, you mean allowing the car to overheat? So if the car gets hot enough and then temp begins to rise past normal threshold, this would tell me there is a problem with the water pump (or something else in cooling system like thermostat is bad). Could I not just park the car and unhook the radiator fan?

In the following two diagrams, the "cooling pump" look to be different, but they have the same part #- do you know if they are the same part? Are water pump and cooling pump synonymous? Is the purpose of this pump to simply circulate the coolant?
Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - 2011 Mustang A Engine Cooling Engine cooling
Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - 2011 Mustang A Engine Cooling Engine cooling
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Last edited by retarget; 02-19-2018 at 03:43 PM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Goat Ninja View Post
Maybe you'll have better luck, but I can't drive onto my ramps with my front tires. Nothing hits or anything, the ramps just slide out of the way. I bought the ramps for exhaust install and backing onto them with rear tires was fine, but when it was time to change oil, I figured I'd give it a go with the ramps. Pffft, nope lol, just kept sliding out. I ended up jacking up one side, slide a ramp under, then the other side and slide other ramp under.
Try taking two 2"x6" pieces of wood, drilling a hole and with rope attaching it to the ramps. This stops the ramp from sliding away as you drive up the 2x6 and onto the ramps.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Goat Ninja View Post
Maybe you'll have better luck, but I can't drive onto my ramps with my front tires. Nothing hits or anything, the ramps just slide out of the way. I bought the ramps for exhaust install and backing onto them with rear tires was fine, but when it was time to change oil, I figured I'd give it a go with the ramps. Pffft, nope lol, just kept sliding out. I ended up jacking up one side, slide a ramp under, then the other side and slide other ramp under.
Old Goat,I had the same problems with my ramps,got (2) 2x4 put a small cross board on the end 0f the 2x4 (nailed), then put the (2) 2x4 against the garage door and the nailed end against the front of the ramps, and drive right on.Works slick and is safe,no more scoot out. LOL.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018 Thread Starter
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Try taking two 2"x6" pieces of wood, drilling a hole and with rope attaching it to the ramps. This stops the ramp from sliding away as you drive up the 2x6 and onto the ramps.
I like this idea better than gluing rubber on the bottom. I'm going to rivet a foot of nylon hose wrap that I have laying around, to the edge of each ramp. This should keep the ramps from sliding away from the tire until the tires get up on the ramp.

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