Taking on a 2016 M3
So I know I shouldn't sucker for this but my competitive side is getting the better of me...
My boss has a 2016 M3. Talks smack about it all the time. I recently picked up a 2013 5.0 and haven't heard the end of it since. He's got more torque and is lighter which he feels are guarantees he'd win in a race but typically the 1/4 mile times between the two are less than half a second.
I mentioned the performance similarities and he went on and on how I'd never keep up and 1/2 a second is a lifetime in racing. While I agree to some extent that is true, I know a lot depends on the driver.
All this said.... I want to shut his pie hole. What should I do first to crank a little extra power out of the engine. We're both stock (I have factory 373's) so I don't want to go too crazy... Just enough to ensure he goes home with his tail between his legs. We're friends by the way so no I'm not worried about my job...
CAI is supposedly useless and I see a lot of different opinions on them. I actually see a lot of back and forth on a pot of different things. I'm looking for real performance gains people can recommend through thier own real experience...
I'd have to say that there's good news and there's bad news on this one.
First, the bad news. He's probably right. Especially if you go from a dead stop. And even more right if he has a dual clutch auto with launch control. Although this particular launch control has been known to often be uncontrollable. You don't want to be beside him in a standing start. If he loses control and wipes both of you out, you will surely be blamed because of the poor opinion the public typically has about mustangs and their drivers. There is a certain reputation that is probably not your fault.
But there's good news, too. It's actually lucky he's likely to win. You think he's your friend but you forget that ALL BMW OWNERS are crazy and a bit weird. (I should know, my wife drives one...) So, if you beat his backside he will only pretend that it's okay but will resent you forever and one day will turn on you. I know it sucks, but DON'T BEAT THE BOSS.
If you want to have a bit of fun and keep it close, here's a plan. You will want to start from a roll. Our cars are not great from a standing start on the street, especially with the 3.73's. So, find which gear will let you punch it with no wheel spin. Let's guess it's second gear (not sure if you have auto or manual). You will set it up so you are cruising in this gear at exactly 4250 rpm (your peak torque rpm). You do the three horn honks and make sure you hit it, if anything, a bit early. NOT late at all. A tenth of a second is almost indistinguishable to the eye but makes for several car lengths at the end for two identical cars. Don't let him get any jump. If the coward does, just don't bite. Slow down and restart until you are at worst even or better yet accidentally get a slight advantage.
This should be really close. Close enough that you win when you point out how much he spent compared to what you forked out.
Now, if you really don't need the job and can do without his friendship, it's time to supercharge. You will still be able to laugh about how much less you spent as he tells everyone how terribly you thrashed him. If the company owner has any sense at all you will soon be your boss's boss. Owners typically likes someone who can get results while still being frugal.
Good luck to you and all the best in this undertaking. :wink:
A 100 Shot Nitrous Kit (and tune), some practice. You’ll shut him down quick.
I’m not personally a fan of Nitrous use, but it will smack him down quickly, economically, and you can easily remove it once done.
Just know that a lot of things CAN go wrong. Eyes Open!
Why should it matter if his car is faster than yours or not? If you enjoy your car and have fun with it then that's all that matters.
Sounds to me like he's yanking your chain and he's winning.
OP I know it is tempting, BMW owners are some of the most pretentious folks out there, and I've had my share of BMW kills with ol' blackie (my GT), but there is no need to get dragged into a race that could have adverse results.
What you should do is rub it back in his face once the maintenance issues start up for that M3, it's going to be spending a lot of time at the dealership:wink:.
I'd laugh when he jokes and say "yeah to me 1 second ain't worth 18K vs 60K, especially when I like the look and sound of a Mustang better", and move along.
I don't see you doing anything but giving him more stuff to say after this race. That is a nice car, and faster than ours unless some good money spent, but again we are talking a 48K cost difference, it BETTER be faster. Then add the cost of the entire car is less than half the difference between the cars and it shows how laughable his smack talk actually is.
Taking on a 2016 M3
Thanks for all the responses guys. To clarify, we've worked together for many years and we just like giving each other crap. I would love to beat him in a race just because he's talked so much smack on this one.
Ive heard so much back and forth on mods for my car. Box Tunes and Cai combos bringing out 30+ HP for example. Then it becomes "well, you need to take it to a custom tune shop and have them do it", then it's "well you need something else" and on it goes. I'm told to replace the mufflers... "You'll gain 10hp!" Then I find out that there is no gain in power "but it sure sounds good!" which I don't care about at this point.
I guess what I'm getting at is that I don't want to spend a bunch of cash for pretty much nil results. Has anyone make mods they thought legitimately improved the power of thier car and if so what were they?
Tune will improve things - maybe .2-.3 in the 1/4 mile if you can hook the car. Shop dyno likely better peak HP, good canned tune (LUND, MPT) will likely "feel" better (improved torque) but likely be only a .1 sec difference between the two. +20hp/+20-35ft/lbs $400-700
Cold Air & axleback $1000+ nothing
Long tubes, cat removal, catback exhaust ($2000-3500) -- approx 70-80 hp at engine (50-60 to wheels maybe), maybe 20 torque,
100-150 shot of nitrous (your only hope at low cost of running with him) $1000-1800
I actually have some experience with various forms of racing and I can tell you that 1/2 a second on a 1/4 mile drag strip is actually quite a lot. The same could be said for most road courses. Still all is not lost. As crjackson said NOS is the cheapest and quickest way to gain 100-150 horsepower. He was also correct when he said that things can go seriously wrong when using it. I've seen some rather impressive explosions at the track when things went wrong. So what to do without NOS? I don't really recommend street racing. Besides the obvious risk of an accident especially one involving innocent bystanders the legal costs including loss of your license really dosen't make it worthwhile. Most places have legal drag strips and either a test and tune or grudge night. They may or may not do good track prep on these nights, but it's relatively cheap [ a LOT cheaper than a ticket or any other financial liability you may incur on the street ] and safe. Buy a set of 17x10 wheels and a good set of slicks for a manual or drag radials for an auto and practice a bit before hand. In drag racing your 60 ft. time is critical to getting a good et. Don't worry about trap speed for now, in this case it's ET that matters. Get rid of as much weight before hand as possible. You don't need a full tank of gas to race and gas is around 6 lbs. a gallon. Clean out the trunk and remove the back seat. The seat dosen't weigh much, but removing it and all the junk people generally carry around is easy and FREE. You said you have a '13 so a track key isn't available for your car, but Ford's Pro Cal tune might still be available and while neither of them gives a huge increase in horsepower it should give about a 60 ft. lb. increase in torque at 1,500 rpm which will help with the 60 ft. time so long as you have traction. Driver skill matters in racing especially when using a manual trans on the drag strip. Practice,practice,Practice.
two words: Carnegie Hall
I'll explain later but will let folks ponder on this one. I'm thinking it's easy
Consider this ,the m3 goes for between 63k and 58k on the low end.
The 2013 Mustang gt goes for around 34k. That is a difference of around
24k. if you were to invest a third of that amount into the Mustang you would
have a much quicker car than his for a lot less. If it means that much to you. Personally
I don't care for Bimmers. There is something really wrong with the thinking of
car makers today. As far as I am concerned four door cars are family cars. Sports
cars and Muscle cars should be two door coupes and nothing else.
so if you have kids you shouldn't be allowed to have a fun car?
The SHO is one of those 4 door cars I would consider to replace my Mustang.
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