Battery Acid Issues - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019 Thread Starter
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Battery Acid Issues

I had an issue with my battery that never leaked but battery acid formed all on the battery tray and hold down bolt, in addition to acid getting on the frame by the battery. After checking the battery and noticed the side wall starting to bow out I replaced it and I installed a new battery. However I still get the white acid substance on the hold down bolt but have never had any issues with the battery post. I also notice the white substance acid forming spots on the inner fender below the battery. I cleaned the whole area several times prior to installing the new battery. I clean it again after pulling and checking the new battery, and with in two weeks I see it coming back. When I check the voltage running it shows 13.9 to 14.0 volts. I have had my GT new since 2014 and it only has 67000 miles. In all my 50 years of driving I have never encountered anything so bizarre.


2014 GT Premium, Ruby Red, 6speed, 3:73 gears, 1969 Sportsroof Performance Red.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019
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What are you using to clean it? When I have this problem, I use distilled water and baking soda.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019 Thread Starter
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No I did that too. I pulled the new battery out this morning and it was a little wet under it. I inspected the battery and so no signs of leaking, checked the voltage out of the car and it was 12.6 volts. When I set the gauge in the car for volts while driving it reads 13.9 to 14.0 volts. so I don't see where the alternator is over charging?

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019
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You can have a blown diode in the rectifier assembly. I had this one time and the the alternator wasn't putting out true DC voltage and caused this same problem. The battery had bowing also. Use a real alternator tester and not just a voltmeter.


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019
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Lots of water (I use a garden hose) and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Wash the whole area thoroughly and repeat many times.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019
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Alternator output should be 13.8--14.2 Volts.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019 Thread Starter
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Thank You dusman that sounds exactly like my issue. I will look into that. I presume the a new alternator will be in my future.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark STL. View Post
No I did that too. I pulled the new battery out this morning and it was a little wet under it. I inspected the battery and so no signs of leaking, checked the voltage out of the car and it was 12.6 volts. When I set the gauge in the car for volts while driving it reads 13.9 to 14.0 volts. so I don't see where the alternator is over charging?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark STL. View Post
Thank You dusman that sounds exactly like my issue. I will look into that. I presume the a new alternator will be in my future.
Yes I use to rebuild my alternators back in the day. When the rectifier becomes defective it boils the battery and warps the plates making a mess. A regular volt meter will still read a normal charge range. Hope you get this solved as just replacing the battery will also cause you to buy another in short order. Best of luck getting this solved.


2011 Red Candy /build 2/1/11/ 401A
MT with Redline MTL/ Brembos/355's/glass roof
Shaker 1000/Scoops/Clear bra/Steeda UCA and PH bar
Redline hood lifts/Bilsteins with Ford Racing P springs & axle bks
UPR catch can/whiteline kdt928/MGW shifter with Epco ball
Shaftmasters DS/BMR loop & relocation brackets
Nitto 555 G2's/Steeda jack rails
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019 Thread Starter
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Took a drive this morning and while driving the voltage gauge on the instrument panel that I can set it too goes from 13.9 to 14.1 volts .
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