I've been searching the various Ford O.E.M websites trying to find the "proper" OEM replacements for the 2012 Mustang GT's equipped with the Brembo Brake Package. I include my VIN number within the search criteria, yet several variations of rotors and pads populate in my search results. As I understand, the front has 14 inch vented Brembo front rotors and brembo brake pads, and the rear has 11.8 inch rear rotors and differentiated pads.
A few questions,
1. Does anyone know the SPECIFIC part numbers for both the rotors and pads specific to the Brembo Package?
2. The shop that quoted me for the work included aftermarket hardware, not O.E.M equipment. Is O.E.M (i.e Brembo hardware) necessary for the replacement?
3. The shop stated that if I DO OPT for OEM parts, they are Motorcraft brand. It's my understanding that the front hardware is all Brembo. Anyone have a solid answer for this one?
I have Centric Rotors on mine, $66 at Autoanything part # Centric - 120.61089 for the front and Centric - 120.61087 for the rear at less than $39 each. The Calipers are rebuilds from Autozone and they make just the rebuild kits for the Brembo Calipers.
I wanted better brakes for my trips in the mountains and was not spending $2000 for a Brake kit I put together for under $550. And yes they are 14" Brembo in the front and 13.8 13-14 GT500 rears on my V6.
I have Centric Rotors on mine, $66 at Autoanything part # Centric - 120.61089 for the front and Centric - 120.61087 for the rear at less than $39 each. The Calipers are rebuilds from Autozone and they make just the rebuild kits for the Brembo Calipers.
I wanted better brakes for my trips in the mountains and was not spending $2000 for a Brake kit I put together for under $550. And yes they are 14" Brembo in the front and 13.8 13-14 GT500 rears on my V6.
For the pads, you can use any pad that will fit; they don't need to be "Brembo" brand; unfortunately there are many variations available so you'll have to pick. Unless you track the car I would not go with the Brembo brand, because they are very dusty. I'd check some of the other threads on here for pad recommendations.
The rotors also do not need to be Brembo or exact OEM replacements. I believe Centric makes the OEM rotors and they are a good choice. If you check Rock Auto they will show several options (probably too many options). I would go with mid-priced coated rotors; not the cheapest ones but you really don't need the high end ones unless you have some special requirement. The Centrics that Siber listed are probably about right.
The rotors might not really need to be replaced, if they look OK with no warping or major grooves in them. One way to tell if they are warn, is run your finger over the surface of the rotor and out to the edge. If there is a big ridge around the edge of the rotor, that means the surface of the rotor is significantly worn in the area where the pads hit the rotor. If no big ridge, no grooves, and no pulsing or warping, then there is no real reason to replace them.
It is very unusual to need to rebuild the calipers; unless you were racing the car and got the rotors up to about a thousand degrees, the calipers should be fine. A fluid flush every few years is a good idea, but you can get away without it.
For the pads, you can use any pad that will fit; they don't need to be "Brembo" brand; unfortunately there are many variations available so you'll have to pick. Unless you track the car I would not go with the Brembo brand, because they are very dusty. I'd check some of the other threads on here for pad recommendations.
The rotors also do not need to be Brembo or exact OEM replacements. I believe Centric makes the OEM rotors and they are a good choice. If you check Rock Auto they will show several options (probably too many options). I would go with mid-priced coated rotors; not the cheapest ones but you really don't need the high end ones unless you have some special requirement. The Centrics that Siber listed are probably about right.
The rotors might not really need to be replaced, if they look OK with no warping or major grooves in them. One way to tell if they are warn, is run your finger over the surface of the rotor and out to the edge. If there is a big ridge around the edge of the rotor, that means the surface of the rotor is significantly worn in the area where the pads hit the rotor. If no big ridge, no grooves, and no pulsing or warping, then there is no real reason to replace them.
It is very unusual to need to rebuild the calipers; unless you were racing the car and got the rotors up to about a thousand degrees, the calipers should be fine. A fluid flush every few years is a good idea, but you can get away without it.
Thanks for the info. No major groves, but when I ran my finger towards the outer circumference of the rotor, I did feel a ridge. I attempted to go with drilled and slotted StopTech's [Price was not bad either compared to O.E.M] but had issues with the order. I ended up going with Duralast rotors and pads - still waiting for the parts to come though.
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